OR run the Ciro Design Caster/Camber plates. The maxed out caster setting aids in straight line stability, along of course with the added benefits of more neg camber when the wheel is turned.

I would just leave the camber on your race setting, so you don't have to readjust toe. Even with agressive camber, your tire should wear fairly evenly if you drive hard - or poorly.

 

LOL!

I have little expectation for these tires surviving another season

I just need to be carefull about how twichy I make the car on my daily commute

I have the Cusco plates (ct9a). Nothing special.

 

I think that caster and toe are more prone to cause tramlining than is camber. . . I wouldn't worry about it.

Camber plus toe for the street will kill your tires fast. . . I would recommend setting it up to a mild race setting (-2.25 to -2.75) with zero toe. Drive that on the street and see how it feels. I think you'll like it and it will work well enough on the track you won't want to mess with the hassel of resetting toe . . .

 

I honestly think that most of the time we don't need much more than-2.5 degrees of front camber for 245s, but of course it depends on your wheel width, spring rate, etc. Much more and I think you start to actually lose front traction more easily. I am not sure, but that's how it seems to me.
I used to switch between "street" and "race" alignment every event, and eventually got so tired of doing it I just left it on race settings all the time on the street too. Does it wear your front tires faster? I definitely think so, but since the least my lazy azz can do is switch wheels and tires for events, along with regular rotation, I just let the "race" alignment burn through my old azenis and all seasons.
Regarding street driving on the "race" alignment, I really don't find it to be all that bad personally.

 

FWIW, I was running "race" alignment on the street on my Evo for much of the past 4 years... I never had any problems worth mentioning. Ride quality was decent, and wear was never so unbalanced as to cause any concerns.

The only warning I'd make is that if you plan to drive the car through a nasty winter season, I'd not only go back to a more appropriate street alignment, but I'd switch back to the stock suspension. Not only is an autocross suspension wrong for the snow, but you don't want to subject an expensive aftermarket suspension to the temperature and corrosion extremes that a winter-driven Evo will experience. For my last winter in Virginia before moving to San Diego, I switched the stock suspension back onto the car the day after my last autocross of the season...

 

OK it looks like I am going to try the 2.5 1/8 or the 2.75/0 combo if I can't reach 2.75/ from 2.5 1/8, which do you guys think is going to be the preferred static choice ? not dependent on tire wear.

As for changing out goodies in the off season, I really dont have anything all that special. I can see removing coil overs so that they adjust better but wouldnt a good coating of silicon or something like that keep them 'ok' during the winter months ?

Thanks

 

I think you'll like -2.5 and 1/8" out.
I guess you could say I have been a little mean to my equipment in the past bu driving it through the winter, but I try to clean it off and take care of it once in awhile. Yours will probably be fine to leave on in terms of wear and tear.

 

Just get a good set of coilovers made from either stainless steel or aluminum and you won't have to worry about rust and corrosion during winter driving. Now the rest of the car is completely different issue.

Haha same here I think most folks in the ST* catagory just don't see it worth changing tires just to do a few minutes of fun driving. Some of the old timers told me a long time ago (in a galaxy far away) stock classes (when they were 1st created) used to be the same way until DOT R-comps (pretty much slicks) started showing up. How the A6s and V710s get DOT certified is beyond me ...

 

I have seen the debate a million times about stock class running street tires. I think the word 'sponsorship' figures into the SCCA decision....

 

The problem is that the word "stock" is a misnomer. Stock is a class preparation level. Stock is not "as delivered from the factory". Stock prepared classes allow common replacement parts for worn stock parts like dampers, tires, and brake pads. The sway bar was allowed back-in-the-day because so many cars had such poor suspension geometry that they couldn't turn. (Which is most likely why drag racing was so popular).

 

Well without too much ado we set Drivers side to -2.6 1/8 out and Passenger to -2.4 1/8 out. When I sit in the car it becomes -2.6 1/8 on each side.

So far seams like that initial bite i way more authorative and hard g apex's feel easier to approach than before. I have high hope because as silly as it sounds it almost feels like I have less body roll now.

My settings before the mod were flipped bolts which yeilded 1.9/1.8 0 toe which really caused me to drive on the letters and to change up my line to almost a rain line.

I will keep you posted but so far the setting feels fine for street.

 

So after a summer's worth of use, what do you guys think of the wet handling characteristics of the Z1 Star Spec?? TireRack ranked it best out of the 4 tires they tested for wet traction.

Anyone ran both the Z1 and a Hoosier Rain back to back??

 

Haven't run back to back, but the hoosier is a real rain tire and will do much better in standing water. It's the "damp" surface that is the real question. Something too wet for a an A6, but with no standing water.

Plus, the hoosier gives contingency cash.

d

 

I never even thought about the wet performance of the Z1 until I got caught in a huge downpour with them. They even cut through 4" or deeper of water at 45mph+ without any noticeable hydroplaning in 245 width of course. I was amazed. I would put it equal or almost equal to my Kumho ASX all seasons! I think this can be attributed to the massive "V" tread grooves to evacuate even large amounts of water. At the very least, for a tire that performs this well on a course/track, it's an amazing wet tire.

 

Mine have sucked both during competition and when I drove home on them after the event, although they are shaved to 4/32nds. I don't DD them but, they sucked big time driving home that day.