Size is nearly the same as my ETS but 3" thick instead of 3.5. But its Tube/fin like OEM instead of Bar/Plate. So inherently its going to be more efficient as a heat sink and I think more robust overall. But the ETS 3.5" can support waaaay more power than I need and I have the luxury of spraying it off between runs.

 

Alas the great tube & fin vs bar & plate debate! The Blitz seems as of recent to be fairly popular im guessing due to weight and relatively low cost. ARC was always super nice and light but $$$ and now really hard to find although I've been informed ARC is in business again.

I opted for a Plazmaman intercooler this go around to replace old Perrin unit. It ended up being a lil heavier than I had hoped 17# but still fairly light and should be able to support a good bit of power.

But a couple notes FWIW. Tube and Fin supposedly allows for better airflow through the unit granted evos dont tend to have water temp issues due to lack of airflow. But its hard to make blabnket statements like that since various cores have different fin stacks staggered various densities etc.

Also, worth noting tube & fin cores are more fragile than bar & plate. My basically brand new way too expensive unit already suffered 2 rock strikes

 

Dallas, thank you.
So for everyone to know, ETS standard intercooler size regardless of thickness, 3, 3.5, 4 inch, is listed:
24"x11.5" x 3.5" in Dallas' case, Bar & Plate Core.

I went to great lengths trying to identify a core that is longer and slightly taller, say 12 or 13", so about 26" long x 13" tall, 3" thick say, and nothing is on market in fin and tube.
So the Blitz sounds like an excellent find.

 

that's basically what i was thinking. actually the car i have now came with an AMS one, which i swapped for OEM.

 

So whats a summary of these weights?

 

If you're that worried about weight, hot pipe it and run meth...

 

Meth not SCCA legal... Can water injection or 50/50 alcohol/water mix (washer fluid) but meth injection is no-go.

My plan for losing more weight isnt all that crazy, just spending money on things or cutting out things I can. Craziest thing is the new uprights to use Wilwood SL6r caliper and Wilwood UL 310mm rotor with custom hat and integrated wheel spacer. Making the hat thick for stiffness and will then run a smaller ~10ish mm spacer instead of a 20mm spacer Im currently using. This is 20-25lbs total.

Then things like alum motor mounts, making a non-****ty version of the rear motor mount (or maybe an equally ****ty but in different way?), replacing north/south bar, pulling firewall mat, gutting hood of all structure and pinning, debating on airbags but probably replace driver side wheel, move current driver corbeau to pass side and put better driver seat in, finally ditch OEM radiator fan, hunting for non-HID headlights that arent overpricedAF... These kinds of things.

Then I'll add in a chunk of that back in the form of a splitter but hopefully not too much.

 

I meant straight meth, not meth injection. At the sub 500whp level a single 400LPH pump would flow enough with 2000cc injectors. Sucks its not legal though.

 

Pulled the trigger on some MCS 2way remotes tonight, may take a week. Had the car in to do the rear fenders and one discussion led to another with the guys I trust. Turns out they have a couple versions in shaft length combined with some different springs that'll help with my front clearance.

So up for sale are my steller AST5200's complete with top hats, 10k front, 12k rear springs, and adjustment tool if anyone's interested, pm.

 

Dallas, Regarding the rear motor mount, We slotted the bottom hole out on a mill on the aluminium bit. and we use a pin with a large spring clip thru the end of it thru the mount.

If u slot the lower hole u can leave that bolt in and u just got to nip it up once u slide the mount in, And then its just the upper bolt to remove which isnt too difficult to do. Then u can slide the pin out easily.

 

Name of the game, I always find myself taking 2 things out and putting 6 things back in lol.