Less worried about offset; more concerned with widest wheels and tire possible, and the ability to rotate wheels for the budget conscious. My key to wheel fitment on the Evo 8 & 9 is high 20s to high 30s for offset. Anything lower isn't ideal for wide tire, and anything higher just isn't ideal either.

 

This is a valid point. I do run different size/offset wheels front to rear, but it sucks not being able to rotate the tires other than from left to right.

I run less offset up front for two reasons: the increased track width increases grip relative to the rear (reduces understeer), and there's more room under the fenders in the front on a Evo 8/9. Because of the limitations of clearances to the trailing arm and the rear fender, you either need to flare the rear fenders or go widebody, or swap out the OEM cast aluminum trailing arms for Robispec tubular steel trailing arms to go as wide in the rear as you can in the front without any drastic measures (10.5-11" wheels, 285-295 section-width tires).

The downside (besides having to have specific front and rear wheels) is the decreased offset/increased track width up front makes the car a little harder to drive and less nimble (mostly a concern for autocross, not track duty, because of the quick directional changes and speed of the steering inputs required for autocross).

Secondary downside of having increased track width up front: the tires/wheels tend to stick out of the wheel wells more, which means more turbulence and aero drag at speed.

 

when i look at the width of the cyber evo i wonder what et it runs.it's an insanely wide evo.and according to it's results they seem to have gotten everything right

 

picture from this weekend.. sideskirts still not on yet lol.

 

^^^ Nice! What's your experience been like on those Continental slicks? Can you describe how they work/feel compared to the usual stuff like R6s, R1S, or NT01s?

 

This was my first event on them, but I was pleasantly surprised. They are the grand am street car series slicks that are harder compound than the slicks. I personally like them way better than the R1's. So far they seem to hold up better and grip better, which doesn't make sense. Further use will tell for sure though.

Last year I ran Michelin and Pirelli slicks, they did grip harder than these, but I had to go down in tire mod for ST2 compared to time attack stuff.

 

the car with the latest addition..

 

^ Looking good, but aren't you losing air flow to the intercooler with the license plate directly infront like that?

 

I'm sure he takes it off when not street driving.

 

Any more pictures of that splitter? Did you make it or did someone else make it?

 

Not worth it getting pulled over in CA for no front LP in a modded evolution with a bunch of stickers.

Front LP is removed when car is on duty at the race tracks.

It was done with collaboration of the guys at www.staticninegarage.com

 

Great pics Ariel. I really love the underside channels. We share all the exact mounting locations. Chassis mounted ftw! We were going to use dibond, but couldnt source any at the time. Ended up going with alluminite. By the looks of it, it doesn't look like dibond flexes at all!

 

Thanks John!

Dibond(6mm) works out well but it flexes more than alumalite. I learned from this experience that if the splitter sticks for more than ~2"-3" outward of the bumper, alumallite is the way to go. I also played around with alupanel; I found this material to be way more flexible than expected.

We are looking to do a an exact same copy made of 1/2" alumalite. This way we don't need to use any strings or support rods.

As far as rigidity, splitter rocks! I went twice off track on a test day

 

holy crap, crazy video. I bleed my brakes every two track days, and after every "hot" track day. I noticed with my front splitter the air guides don't get as much air as they used to. I really need to invest in some proper ducting.

 

here is a video from an event back in December: