His photos are OEM

 

Yes, that's all factory. I'm doing a mockup and measurements of stock stuff to make my own pan.

 

ahh ok

 

Bumping this thread back up here. My Racefab pan is ordered and Im pondering the idea of adding an Accusump as well. Its possibly overkill for my needs but at the same time seems like it wouldnt hurt and I like the idea of preoilling the motor considering the car is no longer a DD. But thats just an added bonus really as what Im after is insurance for my new motor.

Im not trying to get into a dry sump vs wet sump and accusump debate here; I know baffled pan and all those other "fixes" are merely a band aide.

But here I am looking at my never ending actually seems to be endlessly growing list of parts needed and the thought of killing a $10K+ motor makes me sick.

Sooo when I factor in a ~$400 accusump it seems like a drop in the bucket and another step in the right direction.

So trying to compile a list of items needed here. Id like to stick it somewhere close to the driver seat so I can open and close the ball valve.

I know Ill need -10AN hose. Any particular hose you guys would reccomend for this application?

Seems the OFH is 3/8" BPT not NPT. Found this adapter that should be perfect 3/8"BPT to -10AN: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3230

Then 2x -10AN female fittings
1 -10AN male to 1/2NPT male

Does that look right? And any reason to use SS fittings vs AL?

 

Accusumps have their merits and it's a good step in the right direction. I think having a proper sump matters much more.

For hose, any quality braided hose should be fine, Earl's, Aeroquip, Russell are all good options. Avoid braided nylon as it doesn't last nearly as long in a fire as SS.

Fitting material really shouldn't matter. I'd probably go with aluminum because it makes the fitting threads the sacrificial part if for some reason the threads begin to pull out or in the event of them cross threading. But price would probably be the biggest determining factor.

 

I agree in that I'd prefer a proper sump first, although I recall Andy saying he's opt for an Accusump prior to a modified pan so Im sure he said that based on oil pressure logs.

Either way I have a Racefab pan ordered so the Accusump is just added protection.

Interesting you mention preferring the SS line over the braided nylon. I friggin hate working with the braided SS always end up pricking my fingers, lol. I opted for the lightweight braided for my oil cooler lines with my Setrab MAP kit. Wondering if I should pick up some SS for that too.

As for fittings, I guess it shouldnt really matter. One thing however is it seems the OFH isnt BSP but rather BSPT which makes finding those fitting tricky. The one I linked isnt tapered. Wonder if those China fitting are indeed crap as doesnt seem like there are many alternatives there.

 

I didn't really see exactly what fitting you're looking for but here's BSPT to AN http://www.titanfittings.com/stainle...m?1=1&CartID=0

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-accusump.html

If you look in this thread you'll see the fitting used to connect to the OFH which converts things to AN. He used a NPT which is close but really that fitting is BSP tapered threads according to my research. I know personally Im using a 42 draft designs adapter currently for my oil pressure gauge and its BSPT so that's how I came up with the BSPT spec.

Im thinking Ill move my oil pressure sender to the pre filter side and setup the accusump where the current sending unit is. Either way still need to track down a 3/8 BSPT to -10AN

Is JIC 37 the same as AN? Bc once again Im seeing theyre close but not necessarily the same. I friggin hate oil leaks so If much prefer a perfect seal.

 

I found a 3/8"bspt to -10an from Kinugawa for my Accusump line The pn is 414-14201-023 described as Adapter 3/8PT-10AN. It's steel so I was told to use pipe dope and not tape on the threads to seal.

 

Here's an ebay listing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Forged-Adap...72.m2749.l2649

 

^Awesome thanks for the link! Thats what Im after! Found some AL ones but they were all overseas. Im not concerned about transit time but rather quality of the fittings. In my plumbing experience centered mostly around home improvement projects the Chinese fittings seems to be sub par quality and leaks were present at times relative to a more quality fitting which isnt surprising.

Pretty sure Kinugawa is from overseas as well but perhaps the quality is better. And yes, a lil bit of pipe dope on tapered threads is what Im told is the preferred sealing method.

Do you have any pictures or a detailed list of what specifically you ordered? Im looking to use a manual ball valve and mount the tank somewhere near the driver seat. Would love to know roughly how much line I need but I guess Ill grab some string and mock it up when I have a moment.

 

I'm mounting mime between the rear strut towers with an electronic valve. I picked up 16' of 10 AN braided hose, 1/2"NPT to -10AN adapter, rubber coated hose clamps, ratcheting waterproof grommet and a bunch of various 10AN swivel fittings. I plan to mount the switch and a status LED on the dash and will run additional wires and use an SPDT relay even though its only 4A. Only other things are some metal for brackets, bolts and the fitting above.

I'm in the process of installing as wearer permits and will take pics as I go. Tank is ready to mount and grommet is in. Just want to finish in a few weeks before motor goes in

 

i'm assuming, theoretically speaking, with a larger sump like racefab's, that all else equal, including usage, you would be taking longer drain intervals, correct? i.e., doesn't racefab hold like 7qts of oil vs 5 stock?

also, anyone got pics/confirm clearance of the racefab above the plastic undertray? any downpipe clearance issues?

 

Are you dead set on going with the electronic valves? Everything I read is that the orifice isnt large enough so the volume of oil being pushed back from the Accusump when needed is lacking. I too would put it in my trunk if that weren't the case but if all the racers prefer the manual ball valves that'll be my approach so I just need to find a good spot.

 

Whats a drain interval? My car only sees 7-8k a year. With changing the oil for 2-3 track days, I never even worry about mileage.