gotcha. i just wasnt sure if there was some downfall i was unaware of. I don;t drive on the street very much anymore except for tuning and to get to the track.

to be honest, if that MAP kit comes in reasonably priced vs all the mods were are already trying...theres a good chance ill wind up running it, just for the high level of protection.

 

Guys, anybody can hook up a Dry and Wet sump system in any car. It'll have to be all custom, but you can do it. My buddy's had one put in his STi 2 years ago when he put in his 3rd engine (read; subbies don't track well). It was all custom and like $3k for the Dry sump but it's in there. The Wet sump would have been about double.

If you're not running a treadwear < 80, then I wouldn't worry about it. I tracked my Evo with Hoosiers for 3+ years including sprint races and with a good TUNE, I never had issues. I switched to AMSOIL, then from 30w to 50w and did oil analysis reports and watched my gauges religiously of course. Eventually went with the Buschur baffled pan.

And don't forget about oil temps... I've got tons of info in this thread and my old AMSOIL threads regarding all of this. Read up; Evo's have been in the US for 10 years now; they've been tracked hard already; someone else has already done what you're wanting.

 

I find it amazing that the solution at this point in time is don't run a sticky tire. Why nit just tell everyone to drive slow? I have an accusump but don't use it on the street, and yesterday I saw my oil presure drop on a right hander in the street with nt05's. I will be keeping a closer eye on it now, honestly I'm a little nervous about my next track day even with the accusump.

 

I'm confused with people saying use a heavier oil. Lubrication is a function of flow. Pressure is an indication of flow based on the flow path and viscosity of the fluid flowing. Going to a higher viscosity oil will raise the pressure, but maintain the same flow rate if not a lower flow rate (oil pump is typically a positive displacement with an over pressure bleedback). The real issue is the lack of oil at the pickup and starvation of the pump. The only way to resolve that is by making the return of oil to the pump suction under high G-loads easier and/or preventing the oil from moving away from the pickup under load. The latter only buys you time at sustained loads and is not an "infinite corner" solution.

 

Note: I understand the desire for higher weight oil to get the right viscosity for high track temperatures. I'm specifically referring to using oil weight to address the right hand turn pressure drop.

 

Couldn't agree more.

Read, read, read. When you think you have it figured out, read some more. There is SO much information in this section, because of threads/posts like yours. I know I appreciate it, and love reading through these threads.

 

At least post up some links, fellas.

 

i run hoosier A6 on the track with stock oil pan. oil pressure used to drop to 40 psi during sustain right hand turns. after installing kiggly, oil pressure drop to 60 psi. i put about 100 track days on the car in the past 3 years. oil temp is usually 230-240 degree during summer.

 

That is excellent feedback.

 

Do you guys have any logs to post up? Can we compile a list of logs to go with various setups? I know there has been a few posted but perhaps the OP can copy those posts to the top.

Reading through here it doesn't seem like many have went with the accusumps. I was at RA yesterday for the GrandAm race, and talking with most teams they all run accusumps. (they aren't allowed to run dry sump).

 

So will I be okay using a Kiggly HLA with a FP HTA3582 getting oil feed from the head?
FWIW I also have a Buschur oil pan and Cosworth scraper.

 

I run an accusump I don't have any logs though. You can't go wrong with having oil pressure before you start your engine every time.

 

ok, here is 2 logs (from two different tracks).

brighter blue line- After Kiggly HLA and Cosworth Crank Scrapper installed
lighter colored line- before Kiggly HLA and Cosworth Crank Scrapper installed



The oil pressure isn't dropping as much as it was.

 

The AMS oil pan has the extra capacity toward the front of the car. Nice for drag launches. Not so good for road racing. It places the oil not exactly where it is needed when taking a right corner.

We added extra capacity toward the right side of the car. There wasn't a lot of room due to tyre clearance etc. but there was enough.

Mock up of the extra capacity.


Looking inside.


In place.


Tacked on.


Welded.


We needed this because on slicks the car was pulling up to 1.8G's. Through a triple right turn complex oil pressure would drop to the mid-to-high 20's (STACK datalog) even with the Accusump. After the modification oil pressure would drop no lower than low 40's. We didn't eliminate the right side of the AMS oil pan entirely, instead we drilled a series of 3/8" holes in neat rows.


Car is the ex-AMS TA1.

 

I would think making the capacity as small as possible would work better since reducing the volume in the oil pan for fluid to slosh around? Isn't that what baffles does. Did you have to add baffles with that extra volume.