Perfect Track Wheels Thread
What do people think about Team Dynamics 1.2 wheels? I was considering a set of these for HPDEs.
17 x 8 from 19.8lbs +20/25/33/37/45/50 Offsets
http://www.outmotoring.com/product.php?productid=124099
17 x 8 from 19.8lbs +20/25/33/37/45/50 Offsets
http://www.outmotoring.com/product.php?productid=124099
My point is if the "industry standard" is accurate the 285 is only putting down maybe .1-.2 in more than the same Hoosier A6 in a 255 (which is essentially a cheater tire as its about the same size as a 275). The .1-.2 in an extra 2% rubber but the 255 will have a stiffer side wall with less tire roll requiring less static camber improving braking...
Of course, putting the 285 on the same wheel would definitely make it wider than the 255 but were talking about what can fit under a BSP legal CT9A fender.
Also the added weight of a an extra 0.5" wheel is offset by the 2# lighter wheel. I guess Ill just have to give it a shot myself.
Of course, putting the 285 on the same wheel would definitely make it wider than the 255 but were talking about what can fit under a BSP legal CT9A fender.
Also the added weight of a an extra 0.5" wheel is offset by the 2# lighter wheel. I guess Ill just have to give it a shot myself.
If a 255 is as fast as a 285 (both on a 9.5" wheel) then that is what people would be running. There is a reason people stuff the 285/30/18 A6 on to 8" wide wheels in stock class - because it works and it's fastest. Only exception may be if you have a 2000 pound car that can't heat up the 285's.
What do you mean by a "BSP Legal Fender"??? You can roll, pull, etc. your fenders as much as necessary. There are guys who run 10.5" front wheels with 285's in BSP. This negates your entire point according to what you stated we're talking about.
If a 255 is as fast as a 285 (both on a 9.5" wheel) then that is what people would be running. There is a reason people stuff the 285/30/18 A6 on to 8" wide wheels in stock class - because it works and it's fastest. Only exception may be if you have a 2000 pound car that can't heat up the 285's.
If a 255 is as fast as a 285 (both on a 9.5" wheel) then that is what people would be running. There is a reason people stuff the 285/30/18 A6 on to 8" wide wheels in stock class - because it works and it's fastest. Only exception may be if you have a 2000 pound car that can't heat up the 285's.
What about Advan wheels? Sure, they are a little pricey for a cast wheel, but the sizes, offsets, and spoke clearance are ideal. I don't think I've heard of anyone ever needing a spacer for a properly chosen Advan wheel.
Regarding the RPF1s, they are great wheels, especially for the weight and money but for me the following made them less appealing by the end of the season:
I used to autocross STU with RPF1s with bolt on spacers in front (required, and increase front track relative to rear. Be sure that's something you actually want if you do!). Using bolt-on spacers, I would have had to either use a hub centric ring that installs under/behind the spacer (preventing me from easily putting the stock Enkeis back on without removing the whole bolt on spacer since the RPF1center bore is larger than the OEM Enkei), or run a slip-n spacer and extended studs, but then I would not be able to use the OEM lugs if I take off the spacer because the studs would be too long for them and all the open-ended lugs were not the right seat or my OEM Enkeis, plus that's more cost and weight that begins to negate the price and weight benefits of the RPF1. In the end, for these reasons I chose to run them without the hub centric rings. Having to switch out hub centric rings in order to switch back to my OEM wheels, or omit the hub rings altogether and rely on the wheels being held on by just the lug nuts was also far from desirable. If you trailer your car and/or never run OEM wheels this all isn't as much of an issue, but it is kind of silly not to be able to switch back quickly and easily without sacrificing anything.
I just finished rolling and lightly pulling my rear fenders to fit my "too low offset" 18x9.5 +22 TE37 with "too heavy" 265/35/18 Z1s. They do need hub rings, but that's a tiny matter compared to all of the above.
For these reasons, I'd rather cough up the cash for wheels that don't require spacers and/or do the required bodywork ONCE, than worry about ALL that stuff ALL the time. The ONLY reason I did at the time, was to comply with STU rules regarding not modifying your fenders.
Regarding the RPF1s, they are great wheels, especially for the weight and money but for me the following made them less appealing by the end of the season:
I used to autocross STU with RPF1s with bolt on spacers in front (required, and increase front track relative to rear. Be sure that's something you actually want if you do!). Using bolt-on spacers, I would have had to either use a hub centric ring that installs under/behind the spacer (preventing me from easily putting the stock Enkeis back on without removing the whole bolt on spacer since the RPF1center bore is larger than the OEM Enkei), or run a slip-n spacer and extended studs, but then I would not be able to use the OEM lugs if I take off the spacer because the studs would be too long for them and all the open-ended lugs were not the right seat or my OEM Enkeis, plus that's more cost and weight that begins to negate the price and weight benefits of the RPF1. In the end, for these reasons I chose to run them without the hub centric rings. Having to switch out hub centric rings in order to switch back to my OEM wheels, or omit the hub rings altogether and rely on the wheels being held on by just the lug nuts was also far from desirable. If you trailer your car and/or never run OEM wheels this all isn't as much of an issue, but it is kind of silly not to be able to switch back quickly and easily without sacrificing anything.
I just finished rolling and lightly pulling my rear fenders to fit my "too low offset" 18x9.5 +22 TE37 with "too heavy" 265/35/18 Z1s. They do need hub rings, but that's a tiny matter compared to all of the above.
For these reasons, I'd rather cough up the cash for wheels that don't require spacers and/or do the required bodywork ONCE, than worry about ALL that stuff ALL the time. The ONLY reason I did at the time, was to comply with STU rules regarding not modifying your fenders.
Last edited by hokiruu; Jul 25, 2011 at 03:48 AM.
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,733
Likes: 154
From: Why do they always call the Evo the Dark Side?
What about Advan wheels? Sure, they are a little pricey for a cast wheel, but the sizes, offsets, and spoke clearance are ideal. I don't think I've heard of anyone ever needing a spacer for a properly chosen Advan wheel.
Regarding the RPF1s, they are great wheels, especially for the weight and money but for me the following made them less appealing by the end of the season:
I used to autocross STU with RPF1s with bolt on spacers in front (required, and increase front track relative to rear. Be sure that's something you actually want if you do!). Using bolt-on spacers, I would have had to either use a hub centric ring that installs under/behind the spacer (preventing me from easily putting the stock Enkeis back on without removing the whole bolt on spacer since the RPF1center bore is larger than the OEM Enkei), or run a slip-n spacer and extended studs, but then I would not be able to use the OEM lugs if I take off the spacer because the studs would be too long for them and all the open-ended lugs were not the right seat or my OEM Enkeis, plus that's more cost and weight that begins to negate the price and weight benefits of the RPF1. In the end, for these reasons I chose to run them without the hub centric rings. Having to switch out hub centric rings in order to switch back to my OEM wheels, or omit the hub rings altogether and rely on the wheels being held on by just the lug nuts was also far from desirable. If you trailer your car and/or never run OEM wheels this all isn't as much of an issue, but it is kind of silly not to be able to switch back quickly and easily without sacrificing anything.
I just finished rolling and lightly pulling my rear fenders to fit my "too low offset" 18x9.5 +22 TE37 with "too heavy" 265/35/18 Z1s. They do need hub rings, but that's a tiny matter compared to all of the above.
For these reasons, I'd rather cough up the cash for wheels that don't require spacers and/or do the required bodywork ONCE, than worry about ALL that stuff ALL the time. The ONLY reason I did at the time, was to comply with STU rules regarding not modifying your fenders.
Regarding the RPF1s, they are great wheels, especially for the weight and money but for me the following made them less appealing by the end of the season:
I used to autocross STU with RPF1s with bolt on spacers in front (required, and increase front track relative to rear. Be sure that's something you actually want if you do!). Using bolt-on spacers, I would have had to either use a hub centric ring that installs under/behind the spacer (preventing me from easily putting the stock Enkeis back on without removing the whole bolt on spacer since the RPF1center bore is larger than the OEM Enkei), or run a slip-n spacer and extended studs, but then I would not be able to use the OEM lugs if I take off the spacer because the studs would be too long for them and all the open-ended lugs were not the right seat or my OEM Enkeis, plus that's more cost and weight that begins to negate the price and weight benefits of the RPF1. In the end, for these reasons I chose to run them without the hub centric rings. Having to switch out hub centric rings in order to switch back to my OEM wheels, or omit the hub rings altogether and rely on the wheels being held on by just the lug nuts was also far from desirable. If you trailer your car and/or never run OEM wheels this all isn't as much of an issue, but it is kind of silly not to be able to switch back quickly and easily without sacrificing anything.
I just finished rolling and lightly pulling my rear fenders to fit my "too low offset" 18x9.5 +22 TE37 with "too heavy" 265/35/18 Z1s. They do need hub rings, but that's a tiny matter compared to all of the above.
For these reasons, I'd rather cough up the cash for wheels that don't require spacers and/or do the required bodywork ONCE, than worry about ALL that stuff ALL the time. The ONLY reason I did at the time, was to comply with STU rules regarding not modifying your fenders.
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,733
Likes: 154
From: Why do they always call the Evo the Dark Side?
anybody running the enkei pf01's?
they offer an 18x9.5 +35 that im told clears the brembos without spacers. they should be a <20lbs wheel although enkei does not post the actual weight
they offer an 18x9.5 +35 that im told clears the brembos without spacers. they should be a <20lbs wheel although enkei does not post the actual weight
PF01's come in an 18x10.5 +38.... that's pretty close to the perfect offset for a 10.5" wheel on a factory body Evo.
I just want an RPF1 in an 18x10.5 +38 or so... and I'll be super happy.
I just want an RPF1 in an 18x10.5 +38 or so... and I'll be super happy.
Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but you don't have to even pull to run a 285. I have a friend in BSP w/ 10.5 fronts and 9.5 rears on 285s and he has no pull, just a flat roll. I run 10's in the rear with 285s with just a roll as well.
I will update this thread with how fitment is when i get them