Could be, the result could also be the same. The video is beyond amazing in that all wheels failed at once.

 

Well, having the wrong lug nuts would explain all the wheels falling off at once, instead of the ALL the spacers failing at the same time.

 

Spacers put undue stress on your axle parts. Buy the wheels that are made for your vehicle.

 

I run 17 x 9.5 +38's RPF1's on my car with a 20mm bolt on spacer. No issues with mine, stop scaring people. I check the torque regularly and have never had a loose nut/spacer. I use my car for autox primarly, with a track day here and there.

 

Not scaring, just not ideal.

 

I just my own little test:
-Powder coated 18X9.5 +27 NT03's with a brand new 265/35/18 RS3 49lbs
-18X8.5 +30 Volk LE28 with a 265/35/18 RE01R with 30-40% tread weighed in at 42lbs
-OEM MR BBS(Evo 8/9) with a OEM size 235/45/17 with 60% tread weighed in at 44lbs


Just thought I would post that up

 

strongest actually not the lightest . The strongest wheel you can get is the Seedline Corse Freeflow series. You cant get really more respectable wheel in racing.
When you have those , never happens this:




in the other hand for a perfect surface you shouldn't sacrifice lightness to this level of sturdiness. I like OZ's and Enkei's. They are in good price and also very light.
If you willing to sacrifice couple of lb for bullet proof performance and safety, then no one beats the Speedline Corse's.
Many people weight they rims to the 10th of the pound's , but when it comes to the tires ..... Looks like not too many people pay attention on the tire weight, and that is funny since between the tire and the wheel the tires are not the one's actually lighter. Or the wheel size. You can have a bad combo with tires and wheel with the lightest wheel type or brand, and weight more the a carefully chosen combo with a little bit heavier wheels. Example: if you run a unnecessary wide tires and wheels then you throw out the whole light wheel concept out of the window.
I see many guys running 285's and they actually around 380-400 whp not so twisty track. With a not great suspension set up. That is a classic "doing it wrong" in my eye.
So some guy could be faster with less rubber and theoretically heavier wheels with a right choice of tires. So on and so forth.

Rob

 

That's reaching, this thread is for real opinions not speculation. Wither you have spacers or not, the "stress" is if your wheel/offset put the tire clear out of the range the axel was setup to support. I forget where but there was a graphic used to support this. Like say if we had a ford taurus I would say yes, but the Evo has a MUCH more stout setup. Ideal? Opinion. Best practice? Likely not. Any breaks to date? No. I can't remember exactly, but almost EVERY single car at RTA is using a spacer in some manner.

 

that was a result of using the wrong (smaller seat) lug nuts on the rims, NOT using spacers. Stop spreading mis-information.

Like a lot of people, I've been running 20mm spacers up front for a couple years now with no issues. I mainly to HPDE & autox with my car. About 8-12 days per year running in the advanced run group & I also autox on A6's. I'm not what you would call easy on parts. I re-check my torque settings before I go out for each session and have never had a lug come loose.

 

yeah it is a cheap option . Cheap also equals not reliable most cases. Although in racing the spacers are inspected vigorously between runs/ideally/

So the quality spacers with a right studs can be and are reliable in racing.
Since basically the spacer nothing but a poor man "other off set racing wheel" option.

 

Buddy Club P1 Racing QF 17x9 +28 ftmfw. Not many people have this in the USA. 13.6lbs. Dunlop Z1 starspecs 265/40/17. ~42.5lb setup. Rolled and cut fender lip, rear bumper bolt relocated. Unmolested front fenders. No spacers. If you pair this up with a r comp tire or semi slick 245-255s around 22-24lbs.. whole setup weighs 37-39lbs. MUCH lighter than those Nt03 + 265 tire ~48-50lbs. For reference stock 9 rim + stock 9 tire is about 45lbs.

 

very well said Rob.
There is no difference between running a spacer and running a wheel with the same effective offset. In some cases a spacer might actually be preferred due to the decreased weight. My custom JMF spacers are light as chit.

Not all spacers are created equal IMO, I wouldn't be comfortable running bolt on spacers for the fact that the bolts holding the spacer to the hub might actually come loose and the only way to check them would be pull the wheel which can be a PITA. I prefer a set of extended studs and a hub-centric slip on spacer.

 

Why don't you read what I wrote before shooting your mouth off. FWIW, use longer studs, much safer, this is easy to understand.

But if you are determined to get spacers, then the preferred option would be to get those that bolt to your hub via the standard studs, and then have their own studs for bolting to your wheels. The shear forces on the studs are much kinder in this arrangement because it doesn’t rely so much on friction (wheel/spacer and spacer/hub) to prevent rotational slippage. Also, if the spacer is bolted to the hub, then you might be able to argue that they are not in fact spacers, but a fixed part of the hub. But then your studs are shorter, more stress on less threads, simple facts here.


general rule to follow. The threads of the lug should engage the threads of the stud by the diameter of the stud, minimum. Anything more, and you either need extended wheel studs, or a wheel adapter plate built by a reputable manufacturer. Even then you are still running the risk due to the fact that you are adding a potential failure point.

 

In the post I quoted you on, you inferred that wheel spacers were the cause of that failure. That statement is 100% false. I'm not shooting my mouth off here, just stating FACTS.

I'm glad you're an expert of the topic of studs & spacers. BTW, you contradicted yourself several times there. I bolded those so you can see it more clearly.

 

Don't forgot they are 18" wheels and tires hence the weight difference. I bet that a 17X9.5 +38 rpf1 would be pretty damn close to that weight with a 255 or 265 tire. Plus I plan on losing 30-40lbs weight myself so it's all good I honestly would run 17's due to them being cheaper in general but every now and then I get amazing deals on 18" tires and that's why I stick to them