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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 02:40 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by l888apex
Don't forgot they are 18" wheels and tires hence the weight difference. I bet that a 17X9.5 +38 rpf1 would be pretty damn close to that weight with a 255 or 265 tire. Plus I plan on losing 30-40lbs weight myself so it's all good I honestly would run 17's due to them being cheaper in general but every now and then I get amazing deals on 18" tires and that's why I stick to them
You got me wondering, so I just went and weighed mine..

17x9.5 RPF1 + 255/40 StarSpec = 42.5lbs
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 03:40 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by AlwaysinBoost
In the post I quoted you on, you inferred that wheel spacers were the cause of that failure. That statement is 100% false. I'm not shooting my mouth off here, just stating FACTS.

I'm glad you're an expert of the topic of studs & spacers. BTW, you contradicted yourself several times there. I bolded those so you can see it more clearly.
Lets try this again shall we. SHORTER STUDS, see SHORT, SHORTER STUDS= MORE stress, see MORE = MORE. LONG studs, see LONG< LONGER yes more safe. IDK how you didn't get that or think I contradicted myself.

LONG STUDS=MORE THREADS=STRONGER
SHORT STUDS=LESS THREADS=WEAKER.

Comment?
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 03:44 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by grillpt
You got me wondering, so I just went and weighed mine..

17x9.5 RPF1 + 255/40 StarSpec = 42.5lbs
LOL Spot on to what his buddyclub's weigh and they're 1/2 inch wider!!!!!! damn,I am good
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 04:00 PM
  #34  
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FWIW, I run hub-centric 20mm spacers with extended studs on the front. I did not get different backspacing front and rear so I could rotate the wheels/tires as needed. The spacers also give me a wider track in the front. I run RPF01s 17x9 with Hoosier 275As. I have never had any issues with breaking wheels or loose lug nuts, and checking torque regularly is just a smart thing to do, spacers or not.

Marty
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 05:19 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
The Enkei's do seem like another good option. Looks like they currently run around $1200-$1400 which is awesome, but only come in +27 or +40 offset which is not quite ideal. The +27 may not fit easily in the rear with a 285-width Hoosier, and the +40 probably will need a spacer in the front and the rear with a fatty tire? They also weigh about 2# more each than the TC105N, but for the price difference that seems like a good trade off for most folks. . .

http://www.enkei.com/size_chart/NT03+m.pdf

If you need spacers or have fitment issues with 285-width Hoosiers feel free to post up. Good info - thanks

FWIW - I have not had the new wheels on the car yet - so I don't know if I will need spacers. Best guess is 5-10mm spacer in the front and no spacer in the rear. . .
Yea, my NT03M in 18x9.5" +40 needed 25mm spacers in front and a 5mm in rear. The 285 Hoosiers I ran rubbed the trailing arm in the rear with no spacer. Agreed that the offset wasn't the best.

My current wheel combo is the MR BBS with 245/40/17 and the Team Dynamics 17x9" +27. I really, really, like the offset of the Team Dynamics.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:02 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by High_PSI
Lets try this again shall we. SHORTER STUDS, see SHORT, SHORTER STUDS= MORE stress, see MORE = MORE. LONG studs, see LONG< LONGER yes more safe. IDK how you didn't get that or think I contradicted myself.

LONG STUDS=MORE THREADS=STRONGER
SHORT STUDS=LESS THREADS=WEAKER.

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I'm not sure what it is you think you're trying to explain to me, I'm not the one whos telling people that it will put stress on your "axle parts".
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:14 PM
  #37  
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From: Philly Burbs
running 17x9.5 rpf1 +38 with 20mm spacer up front. 265 Z1s with rear fenders done. mostly AutoX, some HPDE thrown in the mix. love the grip, handles great. regularly check the tq both when racing and DD. no problems with loose lugs or anything to date.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:16 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by l888apex
LOL Spot on to what his buddyclub's weigh and they're 1/2 inch wider!!!!!! damn,I am good
Its because the stupid Z1 SS 265s are 29lbs a piece. soooo heavy. I had Toyo R1R 255s before and they were 25-26lbs with the buddyclubs. ~39lbs or so.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:31 PM
  #39  
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I've been running 15mm bolt-on spacers for about 40k mi, daily driven through potholes, auto-xed on a rough lot and tracked. Never had a single issue, as long as you ensure that everything is properly torqued, there's really no reason to worry about running spacers.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:42 PM
  #40  
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I agree with the OP on the TC105Ns. I got a set back in 2008. I guess the secret's out now!

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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:49 PM
  #41  
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How much and where can you get the TC105N 18x9.5? If you dont mind me asking of course. PM if needed.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:56 PM
  #42  
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I've been eye-ing the TC105N's for a bit now, just need to pay off the Ohlins and the CL RC6's...sigh...
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 07:05 PM
  #43  
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spacers are perfectly safe if you do them right, otherwise the Cyber Evo and the HyperMax evo wouldn't be running them

Cyber Evo (regular spacer with extended lugs):


HyperMax Evo (bolt-on spacers):
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 07:22 PM
  #44  
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From: In the Florida Swamps
The Buddy Club P1 QF's are very light also, shown below...
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 07:26 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by TougeGod7
spacers are perfectly safe if you do them right, otherwise the Cyber Evo and the HyperMax evo wouldn't be running them

Cyber Evo (regular spacer with extended lugs):


HyperMax Evo (bolt-on spacers):
just because racing teams using something , is not a proof being safe... Usually they are the one who actually develop them or use them first time and test them, so actually quite opposite. LOL
Im not saying the spacer are not, but saying X-Y racing team use it, then come to the conclusion has to be "perfectly safe" is not a good idea.
Racing teams also has a different service level after EACH session, vs average Joe racing.
So some thing may work for them , which would not work for a lower level of racing.
Just keep it in mind.


Last edited by Robevo RS; Mar 9, 2011 at 07:29 PM.
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