Perfect Track Wheels Thread
#31
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Don't forgot they are 18" wheels and tires hence the weight difference. I bet that a 17X9.5 +38 rpf1 would be pretty damn close to that weight with a 255 or 265 tire. Plus I plan on losing 30-40lbs weight myself so it's all good I honestly would run 17's due to them being cheaper in general but every now and then I get amazing deals on 18" tires and that's why I stick to them
17x9.5 RPF1 + 255/40 StarSpec = 42.5lbs
#32
In the post I quoted you on, you inferred that wheel spacers were the cause of that failure. That statement is 100% false. I'm not shooting my mouth off here, just stating FACTS.
I'm glad you're an expert of the topic of studs & spacers. BTW, you contradicted yourself several times there. I bolded those so you can see it more clearly.
I'm glad you're an expert of the topic of studs & spacers. BTW, you contradicted yourself several times there. I bolded those so you can see it more clearly.
LONG STUDS=MORE THREADS=STRONGER
SHORT STUDS=LESS THREADS=WEAKER.
Comment?
#34
FWIW, I run hub-centric 20mm spacers with extended studs on the front. I did not get different backspacing front and rear so I could rotate the wheels/tires as needed. The spacers also give me a wider track in the front. I run RPF01s 17x9 with Hoosier 275As. I have never had any issues with breaking wheels or loose lug nuts, and checking torque regularly is just a smart thing to do, spacers or not.
Marty
Marty
#35
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The Enkei's do seem like another good option. Looks like they currently run around $1200-$1400 which is awesome, but only come in +27 or +40 offset which is not quite ideal. The +27 may not fit easily in the rear with a 285-width Hoosier, and the +40 probably will need a spacer in the front and the rear with a fatty tire? They also weigh about 2# more each than the TC105N, but for the price difference that seems like a good trade off for most folks. . .
http://www.enkei.com/size_chart/NT03+m.pdf
If you need spacers or have fitment issues with 285-width Hoosiers feel free to post up. Good info - thanks
FWIW - I have not had the new wheels on the car yet - so I don't know if I will need spacers. Best guess is 5-10mm spacer in the front and no spacer in the rear. . .
http://www.enkei.com/size_chart/NT03+m.pdf
If you need spacers or have fitment issues with 285-width Hoosiers feel free to post up. Good info - thanks
FWIW - I have not had the new wheels on the car yet - so I don't know if I will need spacers. Best guess is 5-10mm spacer in the front and no spacer in the rear. . .
My current wheel combo is the MR BBS with 245/40/17 and the Team Dynamics 17x9" +27. I really, really, like the offset of the Team Dynamics.
#36
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Lets try this again shall we. SHORTER STUDS, see SHORT, SHORTER STUDS= MORE stress, see MORE = MORE. LONG studs, see LONG< LONGER yes more safe. IDK how you didn't get that or think I contradicted myself.
LONG STUDS=MORE THREADS=STRONGER
SHORT STUDS=LESS THREADS=WEAKER.
Comment?
LONG STUDS=MORE THREADS=STRONGER
SHORT STUDS=LESS THREADS=WEAKER.
Comment?
#37
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running 17x9.5 rpf1 +38 with 20mm spacer up front. 265 Z1s with rear fenders done. mostly AutoX, some HPDE thrown in the mix. love the grip, handles great. regularly check the tq both when racing and DD. no problems with loose lugs or anything to date.
#45
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Im not saying the spacer are not, but saying X-Y racing team use it, then come to the conclusion has to be "perfectly safe" is not a good idea.
Racing teams also has a different service level after EACH session, vs average Joe racing.
So some thing may work for them , which would not work for a lower level of racing.
Just keep it in mind.
Last edited by Robevo RS; Mar 9, 2011 at 07:29 PM.