Now if you really wanna go broke, SM is the place to be... Just ask my Mitsubishi GT3 sitting in the garage...

 

Quit blowing motors, I'm only ~50k into my car (with car) :P

 

My newest motor build is costing roughly half that , but it's my fault as I went *slightly* overboard when spec'ing it out. On the bright side, if I ever want to slap on a 9180 and make 900whp I can without making any other changes...

 

I could have 4 motors for that price... eek.


I plan for my motor to last 3 years before pulling it to refresh it. So we keep revs to 7500 unless at a tour/pro. I also only up the boost when I need it.

 

Well I'm also having a high end shop build it and do all the labor, so if I'd done it myself it would've been a whole lot cheaper.

 

Meanwhile, I still daily drive my STU Evo on the original motor.

I'm sure that won't last forever, but I'll enjoy it while it lasts.

 

Yeah... I constantly wish that I'd stayed in STU instead of starting an SM build 5 years ago.

 

Same here, sometimes wish I could go backwards to STU. I think if I ever move on from SMevo I'll move to the new STP class and work on my mullet.

 

I'm really enjoying life in FS right now. The V8 S65 makes good noises and I get to practice weaving in and out of paddock traffic without using my blinker.

Back on topic: Someone should do some hole saw/washer testing back to back and post results...

 

Does anyone have any idea where to start with in terms of restrictor opening cross-section?

 

I'd start small, of course.

And, instead of the holesaw it occurred to me that one might use a threaded bung with a large bolt screwed into it.

I don't know how you'd seal that any more than you'd seal the holesaw setup.
I'd also want it to be accessible while the car is on a dyno, and that would be tricky.

However you do it, I'd start with the minimum restriction as the baseline, and screw the bolt a couple of turns farther in with each dyno run until you get some reading you decide is scary.

After you leave the bolt alone for a while, the exhaust might seal the threads for you, by melting them together.

 

What if you set it up to where you can thread a bolt on that the wastegate flapper hits and limits how far the flapper opens? Use a jam nut and it'll basically be fully adjustable..

 

That's what I suggested one page ago:

As for this:

That's technically illegal because the wastegate flapper is considered part of the boost control system. You'd have a hard time convincing anyone that limiting the wastegate range of motion doesn't count as a modification to the boost control system. Meanwhile, boost changes secondary to exhaust changes are explicitly allowed:

Relevant rules section:

 

If that's how the rule is spelled out, I would think putting a bolt in the divorced section of the MAP down pipe could easily be construed as not legal. I'm sure the rules state that is they don't say "this is allowed" then you are to assume that is not allowed. And I'm sure there is nothing in the rules saying you are allowed to restrict the exhaust flow down stream of the wastegate by threading a bolt into the DP...lol

 

Exhaust is unlimited save for the 100 cell cat requirement and the fact that it has to exit behind the driver. The divorced section of the downpipe is part of the exhaust system and modifying it with a bolt would totally be a legal exhaust modification. The rules say you're prohibited from modifying the boost control system, but indirect changes to boost due to legal modifications are permitted.