EVO X LCA on 8/9
I've wanted to do this since I saw Geoff's thread and I actually have evo x lcas ready to go on too (blowing the engine puts everything on the back burner).
I can measure the evo x lcas if anyone is interested. I also suspect the inner tierods of evo x are longer than evo 8/9.....I purchased a set and eye balled it but never actually measured it. If someone can give me a measurement for the 8/9 we can compare. All bushings/ball joints on the actual lca should be interchangeable. Supposedly the 8/9 axle should work even though technically it should be extended.....I was hoping Geoff would post feedback on it actually but he never did.
Another thing to consider is evo x spindles. They supposedly drop the mounting point of the ball joint to improve roll center. Rumor has it by 10 - 20mm. That was next on my list to hunt down and measure/buy. Allows you to run big bad evo x brakes as well.
I can measure the evo x lcas if anyone is interested. I also suspect the inner tierods of evo x are longer than evo 8/9.....I purchased a set and eye balled it but never actually measured it. If someone can give me a measurement for the 8/9 we can compare. All bushings/ball joints on the actual lca should be interchangeable. Supposedly the 8/9 axle should work even though technically it should be extended.....I was hoping Geoff would post feedback on it actually but he never did.
Another thing to consider is evo x spindles. They supposedly drop the mounting point of the ball joint to improve roll center. Rumor has it by 10 - 20mm. That was next on my list to hunt down and measure/buy. Allows you to run big bad evo x brakes as well.
I've wanted to do this since I saw Geoff's thread and I actually have evo x lcas ready to go on too (blowing the engine puts everything on the back burner).
I can measure the evo x lcas if anyone is interested. I also suspect the inner tierods of evo x are longer than evo 8/9.....I purchased a set and eye balled it but never actually measured it. If someone can give me a measurement for the 8/9 we can compare. All bushings/ball joints on the actual lca should be interchangeable. Supposedly the 8/9 axle should work even though technically it should be extended.....I was hoping Geoff would post feedback on it actually but he never did.
Another thing to consider is evo x spindles. They supposedly drop the mounting point of the ball joint to improve roll center. Rumor has it by 10 - 20mm. That was next on my list to hunt down and measure/buy. Allows you to run big bad evo x brakes as well.
I can measure the evo x lcas if anyone is interested. I also suspect the inner tierods of evo x are longer than evo 8/9.....I purchased a set and eye balled it but never actually measured it. If someone can give me a measurement for the 8/9 we can compare. All bushings/ball joints on the actual lca should be interchangeable. Supposedly the 8/9 axle should work even though technically it should be extended.....I was hoping Geoff would post feedback on it actually but he never did.
Another thing to consider is evo x spindles. They supposedly drop the mounting point of the ball joint to improve roll center. Rumor has it by 10 - 20mm. That was next on my list to hunt down and measure/buy. Allows you to run big bad evo x brakes as well.
For tie rod ends, what shanks/studs is everyone using? I'm not sure what the taper is on our tie rod mounting points. Don't want to buy the wrong thing.
Anyone?
Last edited by hispanicpanic; Dec 17, 2015 at 05:44 AM.
I'd be interested to know if this is true.
All you need are Evo X calipers to run the larger rotor. No need for a spindle swap if you're only doing it for brakes. If you put 8/9 calipers on the X, you can then run the smaller 8/9 rotors.
So swapping to X spindles, you'll still need X calipers to run the bigger rotors.
So swapping to X spindles, you'll still need X calipers to run the bigger rotors.
It's true but not all sunshine and gravy. Speed sensors are different (frequency based magnetized disc surface (evo x) vs square-wave hall sensor toothed encoder wheel (evo 8-9) ) and if i remember correctly, the axle's splined shank length is different
I was not aware of the different abs sensor and spline shaft length issue. Wonder if some modding would fix this...I thought the wheel bearings were direct swap but I've never tried.
I've got an 8/9 inner sitting here and it measures 12" from the inboard mating surface to the end of the threads. Tie rod end thread length is 50mm @ M14 x 1.5. Inner threaded end is a 18.5mm stub @ M16 x 1.5
Nagisa or Race Fab.
Luckily, I came into a lathe so I will be making my own based off my Nagisa shank. I just need to figure out how long I am comfortable it being and how to support the connection at the knuckle to prevent cracking due to the additional torque. Also, no idea on what metallurgy to use. Was considering 4130...
You may be able to ask Race Fab just for the shank and you will handle the rest of the design.
Luckily, I came into a lathe so I will be making my own based off my Nagisa shank. I just need to figure out how long I am comfortable it being and how to support the connection at the knuckle to prevent cracking due to the additional torque. Also, no idea on what metallurgy to use. Was considering 4130...
You may be able to ask Race Fab just for the shank and you will handle the rest of the design.
Last edited by nollij; Dec 18, 2015 at 08:06 AM.
I measured exactly 11inches at the base of the threads on both the inboard and outboard side of my evox inner tierods. The outer tierod is still on so I could not measure to this end of the outboard threads. Doesn't sound like it will have the ~1.5 inches extra needed. we can retry measuring as you did when I'm back from vacation. Outer tierod is identical between 8/9 and X.
I tried measuring the taper on the balljoint off my X. Its coming in at ~6.8 degrees. It could very well be 7 degrees, or maybe even 6.5. It seems small errors in measurement can create large swings in the calculated taper. I measured by measuring two diameters along the taper and the distance between them, then some trigonometry to figure out the angle.
I think i'll be making my own stud for this. Anyone else need one?
I think i'll be making my own stud for this. Anyone else need one?
I tried measuring the taper on the balljoint off my X. Its coming in at ~6.8 degrees. It could very well be 7 degrees, or maybe even 6.5. It seems small errors in measurement can create large swings in the calculated taper. I measured by measuring two diameters along the taper and the distance between them, then some trigonometry to figure out the angle.
I think i'll be making my own stud for this. Anyone else need one?
I think i'll be making my own stud for this. Anyone else need one?
That is about the most accurate you are going to be able to do without using a lathe to measure or https://books.google.com/books?id=YZ...page&q&f=false
Originally Posted by nollij
I believe they are standard tapers to 7°, 1.5" per foot, 10°, or 2" per foot.
That is about the most accurate you are going to be able to do without using a lathe to measure or https://books.google.com/books?id=YZ...page&q&f=false
That is about the most accurate you are going to be able to do without using a lathe to measure or https://books.google.com/books?id=YZ...page&q&f=false
Completely irrelevant, but ford uses 7*, I have the reamer from when I built spindles for my truck. Damn thing was expensive lol.









