It only takes about 3 hours to add ABS to an RS and the parts are super cheap in the classifieds.

 

This is true and then I can sell the RS parts to recoup some of the money. It's a Win-Win.

 

For Autox I'd be ok with out ABS but for Hillclimbs I feel like it it a necessity.

I'd the parts are cheap then I guess it's not a big deal. If you do a build like ours it wouldn't matter that model you started out with as you're swapping out all of the parts that make a specific model special.
Agreed Dallas SE is where it's at if you're not doing a complete build.

 

I would love to a build like you guys are but I would need to get better at welding and other fabricating skills. When it comes time to get a IX I will keep a lookout for both the RS and SE then. Right now, I am just soaking up information.

 

i have an RS with ABS swap for sale. i'll be parting the car out this winter

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...track-car.html

 

Finally got the splitter made. Now comes the hard part - mounting the dang thing.

 

very nice. you planning to fix mount the splitter or some type of quick disconnect?

 

a pallet of purple crack showed up last week




loaded up to get back down to Throttle Works for some tuning on the new setup


weds got us set up with a set of 9.5" skinnys for our rain tires ...


at the dyno.


drove down to UMS for some on track tuning




felt like a high roller in a front garage for the day


late night working on the car. always something to do ...


a little late night testing. using the truck light bar FYI - the evo can put pull a powerstroke from 40 to 100

 

Nice. I'd be in for detail on which tires, how'd the splitter/mounting go, and what'd she end up putting down on what Gas?

 

we have a few different sets of tires:

285 hoosiers as a safe race setup
315 hoosiers to see if we like them
275 hoosier wet - rain tires
295 toyo r888r - grabbed a cheap set of tires for track days and the dyno so we dont wear out the hoosiers.

the splitter for me is always a PIA to mount. This one is decent - you can almost stand on it. It seems to work well as far as down force is concerned.

we are having issues with a CAS and EBC. off the waste gate we are making 17lbs creeping up to 19ish and made 540whp on a mustang. on the same dyno last year we made 480 at 26lbs. both on e85. TQ went from 370ish to 425. we buy barrels of e99 and mix it.

to summarize the changes:
Old New
efr7163 gtx3582r
stock IM Curt brown ported
stock TB curt brown ported
-6 pickup -8 pickup
ets 3" ic custom setrab IM
stock oil dry sump

the driveability is great. i was worried the hit from the 3582 would be a lot but it comes on super smoothly. obviously once we make more power it will become a bit more abrupt. with our combo we could make more power - but we are aiming for reliability. From the get go i have wanted a 550whp on the mustang dyno. if the car drives well and doesnt over heat we will be happy!

 

What hotside are you running on the GTX3582R? Why didn't you go with the reverse rotation?

 

Solid numbers. How is boost threshold compared to the 7163?

 

I prefer rpm you hit 300tq for a relative number. Got some dyno sheets to post up?

 

That works too.

 

vband 1

when we were looking at running the IC piping in a traditional configuration a reverse rotation made sense but in this configuration the std rotation gives more room.

i'll try to remember to get a side shot this evening but here is one where you can see the ic piping going up: