DatEngnr_Bro

Hi guys,
I've recently started a new build. I plan on eventually getting into RR to develop as a driver overtime. Since I'll have the motor completely apart are there any mods I should consider? For example I've heard of people ceramic coating their pistons & combustion chambers. I also plan on getting oil squirters drilled into the new 2.4 block. I'll also be running a map for considerably less boost whenever I do events(obviously).
The motor will be fully built

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

For a road race build, do not run a longer stroke than 94mm. You're also not going to want that big 6466 on the car. Concentrate on cooling system (oil cooler and radiator), brake cooling, good suspension, and good tires. Developing as a driver in a built Evo is going to be difficult because the car's capabilities are going to far exceed yours, which results in you being afraid of the car and afraid to push it, so you never learn.


Not sure how the car is now, but going out and getting your feet wet in a stock car (Evo) with decent tires and brakes is going to be the best way to learn.

DatEngnr_Bro

I was afraid of that, I really considered getting a new turbo but I think I'll just swap it out once I start doing events consistently (which will be a couple years down the line). Car has Meagan coilovers, upgraded sway bars, stock brembos.
So would the 100mm stroke of the 4g64 create problems down the line?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

The 100mm cranks break when subjected to track abuse. You can put a 94mm crank with 159mm rods in the 64 block and you'll have a 2.235L motor. And it will work great.

DatEngnr_Bro

How about a forged 100mm crank?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Forged, billet, whatever. They break. Even the 94mm's break, they just take a lot longer. For a street/fun car, the 100mm is fine. But for track days, where its getting the hammer laid down for 20-30 minutes straight 4-5 times a day, they just don't last.

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

if you're going to be doing a lot of track and eventually get into racing, i'd stick with 2.0L engine. i went through 3 engines, then eventually back to a new completely stock oem shortblock, head and turbo. nothing beats oem at the power level im at. 320 from 4500-7500 on e85. determine what class you want to run and how much power you can have for the class. you dont want to end up making too much power, then have to turn it down and have lag.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

How long have your 100mm motors lasted? My 2.3 has a few hundred autoX runs and a couple hours on track with AX being north of 450hp and track turned down to a bit under 400 (guessing on the detuned numbers). And also track time isn't racing, just some 8-9/10th driving.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I was considering a 2.3, until Aaron at English Racing told me to build a 94mm motor for road course work. He said the 100mm's just don't last. Autocross is a little different, it's one lap with a 5-10 minute break. It's not 30 minutes straight.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely, the steady state corning on track alone is a huge issue for anything oiled. AX can certainly cause oiling issues but its less time at high g before changing directions.


If it ever comes to having to build a new motor I'll probably go with a 2.4 block an 94mm crank as you mentioned earlier. I think that will be the hotness with some high RPM over rev so we don't have to shift ever.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Even a 2.0 block with 94mm crank and 153mm rods will rev to 9500 no problem. The extra displacement from the larger bore of the 4g64 is nice though.

DatEngnr_Bro

Hmm it might be a better idea to save up for a higher mileage stockish e85 VIII to use as a dedicated track car. Not sure I'd want to put a new build with a low mileage chassis through consistent abuse...
All I know for sure is I eventually want to consistently RR with this platform.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Or buy one that's already caged/certified. Lots cheaper..trust me.

ridenrunwv

That's what I'm probably going to do. I was going to cage mine but it only has around 32k miles on it and is in near perfect shape so I'm selling it to buy a higher mileage track car and it will likely be one already setup.

Have you seen how cheap track cars sell for considering the amount invested? If street use isn't a priority for you then the savings would be big.

codgi

iTrader: (22)

This. Happy I stuck with it that way. Several friends haven't and they always seem to be busting something inside the engine at the track.