The Evolution of F-Prepared, Re-build Log.
If I did my math right, the 46mm restrictor limits you to around 52-53lbs/min mass airflow. That is off the map on the G25-550, and lands you in the 76%-77% compressor efficiency island on the G25-660. Are you going to use the turbo speed sensor to control boost? Are you allowed to run external wastegate dump?
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 153
Likes: 17
From: Portland, Oregon
Long time no see around these parts. Been a long winter but we are getting the car ready to run for this year. The turbo kit is on, we are building a new oil pan, and the planned suspension upgrades for the year are taking place.
The new SSB Designs prototype 1.25" correction knuckles are being installed. There should be some production units on the way. Unfortunately because of the new placement of the trailing arm attachment, there was significant interference even at full droop with the back of the wheel and the arm. We really don't want to go any wider with the car, so we are opting to build new higher clearance arms.
Between the brakes and the knuckles we are going to shave a minimum of 34lbs. That is not including the ebrake stuff, but since we are putting a staging brake in the car I didn't include it until I weight all those components.
The oil pan will be center sump, with a trap door system around the pickup and a baffle plate around 2/3 the way up the pan. The exhaust will route around the front of the motor, as can be seen by the cutout in the pan.
Sorry for the crappy picture of the brakes.....
Zack
The new SSB Designs prototype 1.25" correction knuckles are being installed. There should be some production units on the way. Unfortunately because of the new placement of the trailing arm attachment, there was significant interference even at full droop with the back of the wheel and the arm. We really don't want to go any wider with the car, so we are opting to build new higher clearance arms.
Between the brakes and the knuckles we are going to shave a minimum of 34lbs. That is not including the ebrake stuff, but since we are putting a staging brake in the car I didn't include it until I weight all those components.
The oil pan will be center sump, with a trap door system around the pickup and a baffle plate around 2/3 the way up the pan. The exhaust will route around the front of the motor, as can be seen by the cutout in the pan.
Sorry for the crappy picture of the brakes.....
Zack
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 153
Likes: 17
From: Portland, Oregon
Well for some reason I think Flickr is just having a problem loading them, they were there at one point You can see this page never fully loads. Hopefully they will make their way back!
Zack
Zack
Please use EvOMs image host. Cant be any easier!
See here if needed: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...e-hosting.html
Indeed. Cool to see the rears coming to life. I can't droop much more without significant fender work, may have to borrow your fender idea or fork up for the voltex ones lol. An idea a buddy of mine also gave me is that we need to either nylock or pin the nuts on the ankerman's and on this it looks like a couple other areas. The concern I had with nylocks esp on the front was heat but we'll see. Basically with the vibrations and impacts that's not an area we want to come loose.
Indeed. Cool to see the rears coming to life. I can't droop much more without significant fender work, may have to borrow your fender idea or fork up for the voltex ones lol. An idea a buddy of mine also gave me is that we need to either nylock or pin the nuts on the ankerman's and on this it looks like a couple other areas. The concern I had with nylocks esp on the front was heat but we'll see. Basically with the vibrations and impacts that's not an area we want to come loose.
Why not just JB weld it while were in there 
I always recommend blue locktite everything in the suspension. Its prevailing torque type like a nyloc but replaceable. That with good torque and Ive never had parts come lose unless driven by something else.
I always recommend blue locktite everything in the suspension. Its prevailing torque type like a nyloc but replaceable. That with good torque and Ive never had parts come lose unless driven by something else.
I think I've used red loctite twice in my life. It's meant for bolts that are never supposed to be serviced. Proper procedure to remove bolts with red loctite is to heat them with a torch. If you have to ask yourself if it can handle the heat of a torch it shouldn't have red on it.
Nyloc is plenty IMO.
Nyloc is plenty IMO.
I put red Loctite on my flywheel bolts, so next clutch job should be fun... But in fact there are MANY different specs on thread locker regardless of color. not all red are created equal.