Balrok

iTrader: (15)

If your calling him ask him what the full monty subframe/arms package costs, or a breakdown. I keep seeing him rolling them out on facebook.

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

Sorry, I did it all through Messenger and am set in the queue now.

Bee-Raddd

Oil changes arent too bad. i have a drain on the tank that goes through the floor so i just open the valve on that, and i take the filter off and flick the drysump belt off and i have a gear set up on a drill which i just sit there running the drill which turns the pump over till it all pumps out the filter housing. takes about 5min but one benefit is u get all the oil out of the system unlike a wet sump oil change where u only get like 80%

i dont bother spinning the pump manually even after it sits for ages i just start it as per normal. if ur worried about it u could disconnect the crank sensor n run it on the starter for 10 or so seconds. Ive always got instant oil pressure anyway as the oil tends to drain and pool in the lines and sump portion when not running so you always have oil up to the pump as long as ur pump position is lower than the head of oil in ur tank which it will be unless u put one of those short fat tanks behind the front bumper.

They are maintenance free really apart from oil changes as per normal and filter changes. Its worth periodically replacing the drive belt but its made from the same material you use on your cambelt so it would probably last for like 100,000km if needed. the pump itself will outlive the life of ur engine. pretty much once its installed u can forget about it.

the only thing that annoys me a lil bit on mine is that i have some fittings that go from braided to hardline under my engine around the subframe area and they always have a drip of oil on them. they dont leak per se but they drip slightly like 1 drop a day.


I installed mine myself. it depends on what kit u buy. the norris designs kit is pretty much bolt on. i had to get a couple bolts myself as they didnt supply me with the right length for a couple of them but i think maybe the apprentice packed my kit as a couple bits were missing.

But yes u can install it urself. with the engine in the car. the sump pan bolts straight on, the pump bolts straight on. the old lower front cover on the engine which contains the oil pump needs to be removed and u need to use the drysump plate in its place. thats the hardest bit as uve got to remove the cambelt to do all this. so as long as ur comfortable enough to do a cambelt change youll be fine to install the drysump kit. Youll also need to run lines to and from ur drysump tank. maybe you can have these pre made by norris designs or somebody.

For the cambelt if u buy some strong bulldog clips you can clamp these to the cam gears and then just release the tensioner and do the oil pump plate swap out then thread the cambelt back around the crank pulley and ull be away. or you could opt to put a new cambelt on it while ur there.

Just remember better to spend the time and money and do it now rather than spend the time and money ontop of the time and money u spend rebuilding ur busted motor