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Haha wtf happend to this thread (haha)?? To keep on topic I pulled my pump apart to inspect and clean all the metal out of it and it was pretty nasty. I have never taken one of these dudes apart (a lot of pieces). I got my peterson remote primer in yesterday as well as my Norris design cover to replace my modified oem front case.
Back on topic. Thanks for sharing your sump inspection. Peterson has responded with great service and we have sent the pump into them. After countless hours the last 3 weeks, frustrations run high. Looking forward to a solution and finally getting the car going.
id like to praise Peterson for their great service and customer support. As the manufacturer of Magnus dry sump, Peterson picked up when Magnus went AWOL. CULPRIT: our (unused 2nd hand pump) was reassembled wrong???? After $200, a complete refresh with new gear sets and seals, we hope to have a complete start on the new motor, new trans, and new transfer case!!! Hope to put this 4wk delay behind us.
Factory is around 20-30 base + 10psi/1000rpm roughly. Once you start modding things like balance shaft removal, it changes to jumping up to 50-70 right off idle because it cant bypass enough but then doesn't gain as much per 1000revs. What are you seeing for pressures?
I don't have a way to log temps but driving around normal pressures eventually get to full temp, but when racing the temps definitely jump higher as I can see with reduced base pressure.
Thanks Dallas. I am seeing around 30 psi at idle. Just driving for break in miles below 4000 RPM, I am seeing temperature only around 97°. At idle for 10-15 minutes, see 107. These have all been in cool evening ambient temps. Not warm weather. My pressure seems to follow your 10psi/1000rpm formula.
Oil doesn't warm up fast from just idling. You also need to remember you have a lot more oil to warm up. I wouldn't be surprised if it took 20+ minutes of driving for all of the oil to get up to operating temperature.
Going to bypass the cooler manually and see how that does. Found a tank warmer to buy and will certainly almost need to use this before any trrack event. Don’t think we have a thermostat for the oil? 10 quarts seems to be our average volume.
I got 200 miles of driving and never above 97. What great problem.
What the heck. I see 197F just driving around town. Non dry-sump, MAP pan with 6 quarts in the motor.
Average of 240-260F on track.
Not that this applies to you baller dry-sumpers but I saw a large difference in temp between my sensor being in the oil filter housing and the oil pan (warmer and more normal temps with the sensor in the oil pan)
My oil pressure at idle is 25 in normal driving and 21-22 after a track session. 90-100 at WOT out the top on the street with 200F temps and I drop about 15-20psi max WOT on track with 250+F temps.
Last edited by razorlab; Apr 30, 2018 at 10:03 PM.
At the track this past weekend I was seeing 240F oil temps on my 6qt oil pan and oil pressure peak at that temp was around 80psi, dropping a bit during hard acceleration. I've been eyeballing my pressure gauge pretty regularly after the new pan and I haven't seen pressures go below 30psi yet but that may change once the warmer season comes around.
