na man get hardly any tbh. even on e85. some of the other guys get heaps of vapour etc at their vent cans and others get hardly any. depends on how hard ur specific engine breathes i guess.

 

3 stage here. Adding a 4th stage would create some fitment issues for me.

 

So far, the best solution I've seen is this:


The only problem is, you have to buy an aluminium block kit with it.

It comes with lightweight pulleys, crank ladder, rocker cover etc.

With dry sumps costing £4000 this is a snip at £11000.

Saves about 25kgs up front.

 

Pretty sweet. Although Kenny's choice of music is questionable.

 

wonder hw it compares to a billet block in strength vs weight

 

Thats a sweet setup, how do you like the EPAS in the car?

 

id have to agree lmao

 

It is a billet block. It saves about 25kgs including everything that comes with the kit.

It's ok but I prefer the standard setup. It could do with a hydroelectric setup really.

There's no accounting for taste.

 

Hard to compete with billet block picks, but here is the Magnus getting installed.

 

Is that a 63 or 64 block?

Im trying to figure this out in my head without having a system to look at, but what keeps the stock oil pump shaft lubed with this? Im guessing the billet housing is just redesigned and it just doesnt have a port to backfeed oil to the pan?

 

Looking good!

Zack

 

If you look closely at what would be the stock oil pump gear, it looks like its riding on a sealed ball bearing, like the other idler/tensioner pulleys for the timing belt.

 

Hey guys!
I am driv200's engine builder/mechanic, I have had so much fun with this dry sump install on his EVO IX RS 4G64 block.
I saw you all were wondering about the old stock oil pump...

the Magnus front cover completely does away with it and you run an idler where the pump use to be.. so no pickup tube and no baffle inside the oil pan(;

 

Ahh, good call. That would definitely make sense.

 

Update: Got to do the all important "engine bay detail" with the motor out. LOL!