Cant just naturally let it cool down because we do 15 minute races and the car doesnt cool down. it comes off the track hot to the point the fans arent strong enough to cool it back down when idleing and the temp continues to rise. this is with 2x slim fans on the front already. Everything in the engine bay is super heated eg turbo and manifold from being at high temps for a sustained period of time and the temps just cant be overcame. hence why an electric water pump would allow the water to keep circulating with the engine off. when u shut the engine off when its warm the temps in the block shoot up due to heat soak.

I mean to be honest i can probably spare 5 of my 700 horses to run an electric water pump if it means it prolongs the life of my motor haha.

I believe if u delete the mech pump and put a block off plate your probably not getting a net gain or loss on weight. the davies craig pumps are pretty light. and if u can delete the thermostat theres another couple kg advantage, i dont have aircon or interior bits like radios and lights etc or anything like that which the factory alternator is designed to run so i probably still have spare capacity in the alternator even with the electric pump.
And the ecu would control the PID like mentioned so you wouldnt need an external controller
Would be interesting to do a current draw test on my alternator and see what its pulling.

So basically id need to run some sort of hose from the radiator lower pipe to the pump blanking plate and then i can delete thermostat? or alternatively just in line on the lower rad pipe and keep the mech pump?

 

How many other 700hp setups like yours are running electric water pumps? If others are doing it and succeeding then I would go for it. Your use case is far out of my range of experience so I really shouldn't try and argue the point.

 

Not gonna go through and quote and see if it was posted, but an electric water pump is def a power gain.

With a thermostat, the 4g63 has something like 55-60psi of water pressure in the block in the upper rpm's. It's a huge drag on the motor to drive the water pump.

And many shops on many different engines have proven it.

 

underdrive pulleys have long been used to solve that problem.


I'm open to having my mind changed about electric pumps, but my needs do not align with this thread so maybe another day.

 

Those cause problems though because they don't act as a damper.

 

Im pretty tempted to pull the pin so i will document the process if we go ahead with it. be interesting to compare results. i have a current dyno figure too from the last round i raced at so will be good to see if it gains any power.

My main concern is the plumbing of it etc but i can work through that.

 

Either way works, according to their instructions.

I wonder the difference, if any, on my engine since I don't have the pressure build up from water.

Looking at the kit and instructions. It looks pretty danged simple.

I let my car run after a session, to get oil temps down to normal. I'm curious to know if that's enough to cool the water too, or if leaving the pump and fans on would really help.
And if I let things run, I better be on my battery charger or get a bigger battery, I assume.
I'll have to recheck the draw on the pump and at least one fan.

 

We could fit a larger water pump pulley though?

 

Yes, there's one from Evospec but it doesn't fit the issue, rather it makes it worse, because now it's flowing less coolant at idle when you need the pump even more. Underdriving the pump will save you some parasitic loss up top but idle cooling will suffer. Again, having independent control over water pump speed is always advantageous.

The stock alternator should be plenty capable of handling an electric water pump especially if all the interior bits are gone.

 

How many people here are actually running electric water pumps on their track car, daily, what ever? That's what it's going to take to convince me, a testimonial from people using a product in a way I intend to use it successfully. These things aren't new, if they were clearly the better path why isn't everyone using them?

 

The only two cases I know of are the ones that have put the radiator in the trunk, and even then they may be using the oem pump still. Pro Awesome and Kerr I think.

 

Few people use them because it's a lot of custom plumb work and setting up an ECU to control it takes a good chunk of time and trial and error for getting the PID control loop right. And the cost of doing something like this can really only be justifiable on high dollar builds.

It's not really worth taking the time to do on anything other than a dedicated track car, but then again, the title of this thread is "Cooling Setups for Track Use"

 

Yah so who's running one on their dedicated track car?

Sorry not trying to sound like a dick. I just really want to hear some first hand experience. I will say it is very common and I know people who use them in Drag racing.

 

I've seen them on a couple Aussie builds. I'm pretty sure the Nemo evo used one and I think the evobro guys use one as well.

@Meathooker are you guys running an electric pump?

 

we are not. we were going to run one but the total AMP draw was making me nervous between the fuel pumps and two large fans for pikes.

To me one of the most beneficial aspects is high RPM operation. Aside from electrical capacity the reliability is a concern on the electrical pump. When we were looking at it we decided we would have to install something to monitor pressure if we went with electrical.

There are some other concerns with running a rear mount setup but it seems to have worked well for us. We can run hard for 20 minutes with only one fan running and stay around 200-210 deg.