Unsure why there's so many variations out there, leaves me scratching my head. I've never pushed coolant unless I forgot to turn the fans ON and left it running in the pits. There's little evidence in Evans ability above and beyond the pressure benefit, so it's not a "need", just my opinion. Plain jane Koyo radiator, stock lines, stock location, ONE fan in FRONT left, TWO bottles of purple ice, ALWAYS use distilled water. That's really all you need. Same combo in south Florida tracks for years and years. I'll just leave this here from that same 85deg session ya'll saw in the oil thread:

 

That's the main benefit, IMO, but there's also:

No corrosion to the cooling system (After six years, I can confirm)
No erosion since no water vapor (Confirmed)
No overheating via raising the boiling point to 375* (which the engine will never see).
No electrolysis due to reduces electrical conductivity.
No vapor/hot pockets
Since none of the above occurs, no need to flush or change coolant (Confirmed via sample testing)

I know Evans is pretty much taboo, so it's not for everyone. I'm not a salesman or here to change anyone's mind, of course. Just explaining why I use it because most peeps act like I'm crazy for putting it in the car

If it weren't for my using the OEM radiator, I probably wouldn't really even worry about it, to tell the truth. Looks like it's more often used in endurance/desert racing and construction/heavy equipment, which my car obviously doesn't do
It's mostly marketed as being boil over and corrosion resistant, which it does really well.

Other than all that, Water and water wetter always worked well for me, strictly from a cooling standpoint.

 

I have a single fan which is not enough and the car cannot idle for extended periods of time. and aftermarket radiator.

We found that a product called water wetter is the best for temps. we use 1 bottle of that and just fill with tap water for the rest. tried coolant in there also but the temps ended up higher.

Also a little trick for you all is to use an evo 4 - 6 radiator and buy a hose kit and it moves the upper pick up to be pretty much a straight run to the thermostat

If you use ur car daily or it gets cold in ur area i would recommend adding a bit of coolant

 

Anyone find this radiator at a lower price?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CSF-Radiato...8AAOSw~2BcrxK6

 

That's the cheapest I've seen it.

 

thought evans runs hotter.

i made a mark on the overflow tank about 1" lower than the full mark. When I do a track day/autox, it rises to about the full mark, with all zerex asian vehicle blue and 1 bottle of water wetter. i'm sure it'll rise more on a hot summer day. i'll keep an eye on it for when it's super cold to see if it goes low, but i doubt it.

 

I need to buy a few of those.

I believe I read that the average temp is a bit higher than would be with water. It's still far below its boiling point, though.

 

Bumping this. I'll be at PPIR next month and the elevation there is almost 5500ft asl. I'm considering picking up a better rad and fan setup for piece of mind. Has anyone tracked their evo at higher elevations? How capable was your cooling system?

 

From what I remember the peaks cars always had to tune on-site because of said elevation, was pretty hard to predict because the weather changes quite drastically. Everything goes wonky and works a bit harder, so have said tooner check it over or if your self-tuned check out AND make sure your cooling system is 120%. Both Jeremy's peak car and the red rally car were "normal" track day/racing setups. Nothing super fancy.

 

What do you have for a rad and fan setup currently? The factory setup is honestly pretty efficient. I think you'll have bigger issue in regards to the tune and trying to make power. Boost will be down so if you want to run more boost youll have to crank up WGDC which will mean up top I'd guess you'll be out of compressor and will be blowing hot air. So I'd keep that in mind and hope that your intercooler is also in check.

 

I was considering doing a half rad but the OEM has just been to reliable for me. I still may eventually do something smaller to try out but in general ducting seems more important. Get air to only go through radiator, get air out of engine (hood venting).

 

Yeah its been proven time and time again that the OEM rad is a really stout unit. Some folks have experienced the end tanks leaking at the crimp but mine never did that. I recently swapped it as I went tubular manifold and wanted the upper hose away from the heat. Otherwise I'd still have it.

However, if you're after weight savings which I'd guess you are then get rid of the factory fan and shroud. That thing is stupid heavy; pick up a SPAL and build some ducting with AL. You can probably drop at least 5# just from swapping the fan.

 

Not worried about boost, I have an mbc and a remote mounted knob on my shifter so I can adjust boost on the fly.

I'm still on stock rad and fan. Just want to be sure I won't be pounding my head the entire weekend fighting cooling issues.

 

You find a radiator that works better than OEM. You are good to go, there, no worries!. 👍

 

Unless your system is already borderline at lower altitudes, it's going to be fine at 5.5K feet. Prepare to be down on power a bit.

Don't forget to compensate for the lower atmospheric pressure in your boost readings and gauges. If you've never been at altitude before, it's a bit of a shock to see relative boost read -2.5psi before you even start the car.