FYI, your water is definitely going into a cylinder, just that somehow Evo manages to combust it without obviously smoking.
I never seen an Evo smoke from head gasket, but I've seen Evo loose water via HG leak, and seem OK. Most cars do smoke, not sure why Evo does not seem to exhibit this typical sign of bad HG.

What is noteworthy is that bad Evo HG is usually accompanied, if not caused, by warped head and also block with slight dip in the center along the axis (on top surface parallel axis to crank - the center of the deck lower than sides).

 

Yea it's coming out sometime in the next month when I find time. Hoping the head isn't warped again and I can just give it a quick half thou pass to clean it off.

 

bumping this

Setup:
Radiator - stock
Radiator fan - stock
Radiator cap - stock
Thermostat - stock
Oil cooler - Setrab/Map kit
Oil Pan - Racefab sump ~6.5 qts
Fluid - Zerex Asian Vehicle Fluid 50/50 + Redline water wetter
Water temp gauge - stock
Power/torque - 310/290

I'm looking into upgrading the radiator & fan for a direct replacement - Koyo looks good for radiator, I've seen fan fitment issues - should I be ok with stock here, or should I go for something else? I've seen a few aftermarket ones tout lighter weight, how much of a difference are we talking here?

I haven't noticed any coolant overheating issues to date, but I don't measure it closely. I also have a ported and coated exhaust manifold to decrease the heat output there, which may help. I also have a ceramic coated downpipe to help with heat by the oil pan also.

 

I've always been told the OEM radiator works better than anything aftermarket (unless something's changed in the past couple years). It may be hard to find something that works as well. The OEM radiator is thinner, and made of aluminum/plastic so not sure how anything can be lighter. Especially once an aftermarket radiator is full of fluid. I looked into replacing my fan because THAT is really heavy, but I'm too lazy to make a shroud. Otherwise, an aftermarket fan is also not really all that great.
Are you not happy with your current cooling?

 

nope just making sure i cover my bases

 

Some of the Koyos are thicker than OEM so that can push the fan shroud much closer to diverter valves and the like so beware of that.

 

The CSF slim rad with slim fan cools just as well as OEM. Possibly better. My car does well with it even at over 450whp on track.

The mishimoto is garbage, and the Koyo works, but its yuge (thiccc). Lol

 

 

^This. But there is something to be said about moving away from the plastic end tanks of the OE rad. My Koyo is big and heavy. The SPAL slim fan works well at controlling temps even without a shroud. I have it set to turn on straight to 100% in the ECU though. I didnt need to do this but why not. The thing isnt loud by any means.

I'd like to go to a CBRD Rad just to shed more weight though.

 

you are referring to this one?

http://www.cbrdspeedfactory.com/ultr...ator-with-fan/

the more i read, the more i'm glad/think the exhaust manifold getting coated (and ported while you're at it) is a must. i still also keep the factory heat shield on it anyway too

 

My cooling system runs at 3-5psi. Plastic end tanks are quite happy.

 

Yeah thats the one. Also has Evo6 style input from Tstat housing. But its damn pricey.

 

For what it is it's worth it IMO. I'll be getting a CBRD rad when the time comes. As for exhaust coatings and heat shields they're always a good idea on a car that sees extended track time.

 

Order the CSF. It's in stock, no hassle, works and looks good. Is also a slim rad with Evo 6 upper hose placement.

No BS with Chad at CBRD saying 2-3 weeks and then it takes 12 weeks and then the POS hits the AC condenser.

 

+1 on moving to the Evo VI style with the hose not going directly over the exhaust manifold (shielded or not).