so all ive learnt today is avoid a guy named chad hahahah.

I run a Fenix brand radiator which is basically just a generic chinese one. i struggle to keep temps down when it comes off track hot with just 1 fan but its okay with 2. its fine when u warm it up from cold but if its already warm it isnt happy with the heat soak. Need to put a second fan on it.

Also plan to chop the upper rad support out so i can slide it into the void that that will leave moving it further away from the turbo

 

Idk, kinda has big goofy ears.

But yes, now I recall these additional issues with his CBRD turd..... I mean radiator.

 

Hahaha you say that like its a bad thing.

Exhibit A I give you a beagle...look at those guys!

 

I didn't mean to start a CBRD flame war, thought someone was interested. In any case i cant spare 600bucks for a rad right now. My koyo will have to do. Need to get some money together for a trailer and trailer related accessories.

 

Doing some research on cooling and airflow... I may do a half radiator and some ducting blocking off all the extra stuff up front. I "think" with proper ducting I should have enough cooling for a couple hot laps then cool down laps for TT/TA and will be fine for AX since I spray FMIC/Oil Cooler/Radiator between runs since you cant over-cool those.

 

I considered going 1/2rad. Esp since i dont ever plan on over 450whp. But i dont think I have the skill to do proper ducting and make it work right.

 

Kinda surprised there isnt a suitable radiator/oil cooler in 1 package like ive seen for other cars.

 

STM also makes a slim CSF radiator. I find the Sheepy Built CSF radiator to be a better deal compared to the STM radiator. However, if money was no object...

https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-ev...-slim-radiator

 

Would combining allow for everything to cool as much as keeping them separate? Part of what makes the OEM radiator work so well is because it's so thin. Having 250* oil running through the same setup may make everything heat up faster and cool less? Just thinking out loud.
I plan to move my oil cooler up to the "grill" opening of my bumper cover to make room for brake ducting... not so sure even that will work as well as it does now, though...

 

That sheepey build radiator is the same one I mentioned earlier. I've got 3 of them in cars here making good power with no issues.

 

is the only problem with the oem one the plastic end tanks?

 

The OEM rad like many things on our car is fairly stout in stock form. The plastic end tanks do eventually separate at the crimp. From a cooling perspective, they seem to work quite well. Only reasons I see that warrant switching are, its leaking, need more room (which can get away with slim fan usually) want to drop weight (again fan assembly is where all the weight is) or want to move the upper rad hose over due to tubular manifold.

 

This is pretty much why I still have the OEM rad. Feeling like its probably best to just get a fresh OEM rad incase this one decides to leak. Unfortunately, thats more expensive than other options if I find a new one.

 

I think so. The only reason I've seen people swap them out is due to leaking end tanks. That's the only reason I run Evans (stable temps/no hot pockets is a bonus). I can run the car without a radiator cap, if I had to. The radiator may see 5-7psi or so, max. That keeps the end tanks very happy. I still have another OEM rad in the garage, just in case though
I'd like to swap the OEM fan out for something lighter and with a shroud, if I could find something that would mount nicely.

 

The plastic end tanks, and the YUGE fan that takes up a bunch of room.