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I'm still eyeballing the CSF 7075 unit. Very efficient core, evo 6 upper hose location, built in shroud and comes with a Spal fan and it's only $550.
It works beautifully. My car stays cool on track. And in the yellow car at 860whp, coolant temp consistently only had a 6-7* increase after a full power 1/2 mile pass.
At the end of the day, I care about 1) Car has at least enough cooling, 1+) Lightest option possible. I dont think any of these aluminum radiators can really match the plastic OEM for weight without at least being half sized.
So I personally would have to absolutely know the weights before picking something different when OEM seems to have plenty of capacity in the 450 and under power range.
At the end of the day, I care about 1) Car has at least enough cooling, 1+) Lightest option possible. I dont think any of these aluminum radiators can really match the plastic OEM for weight without at least being half sized.
So I personally would have to absolutely know the weights before picking something different when OEM seems to have plenty of capacity in the 450 and under power range.
I agree with you except weight savings will always take a back seat to reliability for me. If I can get my car figured out in the next day or two I'll more likely than not pull the trigger on the CSF, it's worth the piece of mind in CO for me. I'll post up weights if I get it.
At the end of the day, I care about 1) Car has at least enough cooling, 1+) Lightest option possible. I dont think any of these aluminum radiators can really match the plastic OEM for weight without at least being half sized.
So I personally would have to absolutely know the weights before picking something different when OEM seems to have plenty of capacity in the 450 and under power range.
Originally Posted by ayoustin
I agree with you except weight savings will always take a back seat to reliability for me. If I can get my car figured out in the next day or two I'll more likely than not pull the trigger on the CSF, it's worth the piece of mind in CO for me. I'll post up weights if I get it.
Lightest is great and all. But my OEM rad failed a tank at an autocross. I was certainly wasn't going to spend $750 on a new OEM rad, so in a pinch I got the CSF OEM replacement plastic tank rad, that one went 2.5yrs before losing an end tank at a track weekend. Was supposed to be a 2 day event and it popped in the 2nd session of the first day. I wasn't happy. Went to the aluminum because I didn't want to ruin another weekend or add a radiator to the wear item list. So, I'm 100% on board with Austin.
If you go from stock rad anf stock fan to an aluminum rad with a spal fan, I'm sure the weight difference is very very minimal, the aluminum rad may even be lighter with the spal fan. The stock fan is heavy.
If you go from stock rad anf stock fan to an aluminum rad with a spal fan, I'm sure the weight difference is very very minimal, the aluminum rad may even be lighter with the spal fan. The stock fan is heavy.
Lightest is great and all. But my OEM rad failed a tank at an autocross. I was certainly wasn't going to spend $750 on a new OEM rad, so in a pinch I got the CSF OEM replacement plastic tank rad, that one went 2.5yrs before losing an end tank at a track weekend. Was supposed to be a 2 day event and it popped in the 2nd session of the first day. I wasn't happy. Went to the aluminum because I didn't want to ruin another weekend or add a radiator to the wear item list. So, I'm 100% on board with Austin.
Light fan is easy enough to add to OEM rad. You're def in a hotter environment than me but my OEM rad is still holding strong. And with 1000s of runs dual driven, its only once had an overheating issue cause I had air in the system. Once I change my method of bleeding it hasnt happened since (warmup car till thermo opens with rad cap off so it can be filled as level drops).
I may try a half radiator at some point with some good ducting but expect I'll just end up back with the OEM plastic part.
I wouldn't really call the "tabs" welded onto the 7075 a "shroud" per say but it sure does look nice. I personally like having the fan on the outside left to help combat the turbo radiation and shift the oil/ps coolers some of ya'll are making to the right (looking at the front). By having both the turbo and the secondary coolers on the left, and no fan "there", it's creating quite the hot spot.
On track any sprint race is 30 minutes, and track days are minimum 20 minute sessions, some 25 minutes, some 30 minutes: depends on who runs them.
In California, Florida, and elsewhere, its common to have temps in 90s or even 100s F on track day, with moderate 65% in California, to 100% humidity in MidWest and East Coast.
The 25 -30 minutes on track require a lot of additional cooling-heat-shedding capacity, than individual 1 minute runs. Always full throttle, short lift-off on brakes is not enough to recover much.
So balance of temperature is achieved, and hopefully it is just enough for worst case scenario: cooling at full throttle lap after lap, with minimum fan intrusion.
Alu radiator has benefit of end-tanks also shedding heat - acting like heat-sinks and transferring to air.
Key I think is surface area, and ideally 2 pass may help as well.
Koyo has been the darling of track-Evos, and I am not sure that CSF has much to offer beyond Koyo.
Maybe its as good.
PWR (C&R) has some technology beyond typical.
There are few NASCAR/Circle-Track radiator companies that can build quality core, but its hard to beat plug-n-play solution for cost and ease of application.
FWIW I don't have any coolers sitting in front of my turbo other than what's there from the factory. The rad fan pulls air through my rad and oil cooler.
The stock fan is definitely heavy and it'll be nice to gain some space there as well.
And I'd call it a shroud on the 7075, it covers 90% of the area on the left side that the fan isn't. Putting shrouding where there isn't a fan would just block airflow.
And there are some photos of a full shroud, not sure which is the currently sold version though.
