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Thats lack of camber usually. Overheating the outside patch like that.
Also keeping the wheel turned when understeering. When understeering if you steer more trying to get the car to turn or just leave it at that state of pushing it will roll over that edge and cook it. Its critical to un-steer back to a reasonable slip angle.
I'm getting some quotes for batches of camber and toe locks to be made.
The camber locks work for any arm, but mainly intended for use with the stock arm, they allow 7 different camber settings and eliminate the stock eccentric hardware so no worries about slipping bolts anymore. I test fit them on my car and they allow the full use of the entire slot that exists in the subframe.
The toe locks are only for aftermarket arms. They only have one position and are meant to eliminate any slipping of eccentrics used with the stock hardware. Due to the geometry of the slot on the chassis for the toe adjustment it's not really possible to make an adjustable lock like is possible with the camber.
All locks will come with class 10.9 plated hardware and locking nuts. More details to come when I have some inventory built up.
Plug this into our Evo's obd2 for power & data, turn on at track, win? Come home and overlay with racerender for video syncing (not paying 1k for a **** camera)
nvm... looks like the older evo's aren't supported
i dont recall as far as color but it looks like you've got plenty of tread still
Nah, they are done. The inside of the tire is past the wear bars.
Originally Posted by Balrok
Thats lack of camber usually. Overheating the outside patch like that.
I am maxed out at 1.7° in the rear. 2.7° up front.
Originally Posted by Dallas J
Also keeping the wheel turned when understeering. When understeering if you steer more trying to get the car to turn or just leave it at that state of pushing it will roll over that edge and cook it. Its critical to un-steer back to a reasonable slip angle.
Yep, that is most likely what did it. Car loves to plow.
I'm getting some quotes for batches of camber and toe locks to be made.
The camber locks work for any arm, but mainly intended for use with the stock arm, they allow 7 different camber settings and eliminate the stock eccentric hardware so no worries about slipping bolts anymore. I test fit them on my car and they allow the full use of the entire slot that exists in the subframe.
The toe locks are only for aftermarket arms. They only have one position and are meant to eliminate any slipping of eccentrics used with the stock hardware. Due to the geometry of the slot on the chassis for the toe adjustment it's not really possible to make an adjustable lock like is possible with the camber.
All locks will come with class 10.9 plated hardware and locking nuts. More details to come when I have some inventory built up.
How are finer adjustments made?
Also, am I still able to get a splitter template from you? I've brought it up so many times, I kinda feel like I'm just bugging or not taking a hint, at this point
yeesh no wonder. im -3.5 front and -2.5 rear, with about 5.5deg of caster in the front
And realistically you could use another degree up front and 1/2 in the rear still.
Look at touring cars running waaay more camber, Ive seen upwards of 5deg in some cars. I cant speak to the specifics of their setups but they are certainly better prepped than us being professional teams.
I run -4/-3 and ~9deg caster. I could probably stand to run another .25 all around. On stock uprights, -4.5 was still probably not enough.
And realistically you could use another degree up front and 1/2 in the rear still.
Look at touring cars running waaay more camber, Ive seen upwards of 5deg in some cars. I cant speak to the specifics of their setups but they are certainly better prepped than us being professional teams.
I run -4/-3 and ~9deg caster. I could probably stand to run another .25 all around. On stock uprights, -4.5 was still probably not enough.
yea i dont even think i can get there on the parts i've currently got lol.
we should all just make/join a slack channel at this point
Also, am I still able to get a splitter template from you? I've brought it up so many times, I kinda feel like I'm just bugging or not taking a hint, at this point
Not sure what you mean by finer adjustments but the way the locks work is there are 5 settings on one hole: 1- far left, 2 - halfway between far left and middle, 3 - middle, 4 - halfway between far right and middle, 5- middle.
Then there are 2 adjustments on the second hole (there might be 2 more that I didn't measure but need to double check). Those adjustments land between (2 and 3) and (3 and 4). I did some measuring on my car at different settings and each setting is around 0.5*. If you need to get more granular than that you can adjust the ride height by a fraction of an inch to get your desired camber but that's kind of splitting hairs. The price to pay for no slipping eccentrics is a loss in resolution of adjustment.
Yes, sorry I don't mean mean to keep blowing you off on the splitter stuff, I've been super overloaded trying to balance the day job, side business, getting my car back together, prepping other cars and trying to keep something of a social life haha. I'm setting up the template to be universal so one template will cover everybody, it'll include everything, you just have to cut out what features you want and trace the line at the extension length you want. Shoot me a PM with what front bumper you're using as that's the only thing that will differ between templates.
we should all just make/join a slack channel at this point
We're about to reach street sweeper status.
Originally Posted by ayoustin
Not sure what you mean by finer adjustments but the way the locks work is there are 5 settings on one hole: 1- far left, 2 - halfway between far left and middle, 3 - middle, 4 - halfway between far right and middle, 5- middle.
Then there are 2 adjustments on the second hole (there might be 2 more that I didn't measure but need to double check). Those adjustments land between (2 and 3) and (3 and 4). I did some measuring on my car at different settings and each setting is around 0.5*. If you need to get more granular than that you can adjust the ride height by a fraction of an inch to get your desired camber but that's kind of splitting hairs. The price to pay for no slipping eccentrics is a loss in resolution of adjustment.
Yes, sorry I don't mean mean to keep blowing you off on the splitter stuff, I've been super overloaded trying to balance the day job, side business, getting my car back together, prepping other cars and trying to keep something of a social life haha. I'm setting up the template to be universal so one template will cover everybody, it'll include everything, you just have to cut out what features you want and trace the line at the extension length you want. Shoot me a PM with what front bumper you're using as that's the only thing that will differ between templates.
Ah, didn't realize those allowed that small of an increment change. That's prefect. Count me in!
I figured you've been busy, no worries, dude! PM sent.
