Correct, I went 5" simply because it put the perch above the 25.3" tire so it can go inboard with a 3mm spacer instead of outboard with a 18mm if I had a longer spring in there. The rears clear for days so those aren't a concern.

 

I'm subbing Dallas's 20mm(?) offset standard top plate. I also run the lower strut mount eccentric bolt in the lower chamber setting to give the tire more room. My car also isn't super low (still on factory knuckles), so that may be helping my case as well.

 

At 850 lb/in theres no reason to run a long spring and getting low if you can get the perch above the tire you gain 20mm of inboard clearance. Which when pushing tire size really helps. 6" a good balance of travel and clearance. Shorter spring is also a weee bit lighter.

 

I wouldn't run less than 20mm spacer with these wheels (10.5 wide, 38 offset) it still hits the trans/frame at full lock. I want to get 25mm spacers and push the fender out a bit.

 

Playing the stack the washers game, I found 17mm to be optimal for my wheels which are a +30 so I had my 20mm spacers turned down on a lathe to 17mm and its been just about perfect. So yeah, I'd agree with Sean's assessment there...

 

Maybe new isn't the right word.



I wore out my original Ciro bearings, so I purchased replacements from Rick. The original bearing plates (top left) positioned the bearing above the plate for more clearance. The replacement plates (installed) place the bearings lower, pushing everything down.

I had to compensate by adjusting the ride height on the Ohlins.

At the time I e-mailed Rick to make sure he sent me the correct parts, but I never heard back.

 

Not sure if it helps, but: AST 4100, Vorshlag plates, strut set to minimum camber, 20mm spacer.

 

Certainly a limitation in steering but I ran the 295s A7 on a 18x10.5 with a 10mm spacers and -4deg front camber to make it all work under the fenders. Everything gets close!

Now my setup is just unobtainium so its not fair to compare what I do now, but I always prefer to get as narrow as possible for both fender/bumper edge clearance when steering. I also prefer to try and maximize slider axis angle but will sacrifice that to be narrower. But its also alot of give a little in one place to get a little in others.

 

So Dallas, running 6" springs on your Ohlins, at your ride height (which I presume is around 25" center of wheel to "theoretical fender lip" (you cut yours so now you measure from pinch welds perhaps):
How much wheel travel you get in bump from ride-height?
And in droop, how much from ride height?

Would you consider the amount of bump travel you have available sufficient for road use?
AX obviously will not have huge undulations, big bumps, curbs, and consecutive bumps where car has compressed suspension - only to hit another bump.

Thank you.

 

Dallas is running the Ohlins Flag coilovers, which are known to be short travel in the first place.

If I have time tonight, I'll pull the spring and dust boot off of my Ohlins R&T strut to estimate the travel.

Swift claims 2.7 inches of usable stroke and 3.6" of maximum stroke from their 6" spring. They're a bit vague about what the difference is, though. If that last 0.9" of spring travel is just non-linearity then that's fine, but if it risks deforming the spring then that might be a concern.

 

Thank you for checking on your Ohlins.
3.6" bump travel is very nice, 2.7" is somewhat "flat-smooth" surface friendly.

I look forward to your findings.

 

I'm at 18x10.5 +10 in the front on my car. My fenders are yoinked. Super spaced out at multiple places and the backsides are trimmed to help evacuate air from the wheel wells.




I'm debating putting together a small fender spacer kit to sell if people are interested. Able to make a mild version that just pushes out the center or a wild version that pushes out the fender at 3 spots (front, back and bottom).

 

Nice. Have you measured the additional clearance at the top of the tire? I'm curious how much you can get from a proper yoinking like yours.

 

My track driving has always been much smoother than autocross since dips and bumps are rarely a concern in a parking lot. Now hitting curbs on track is a different story but usually its your unloaded wheel on them. With 800lb front spring, I found 2" is pretty much perfect for travel. For ride height, take the inside frame rail, fold that seam flat and relocate the harness and thats my 2" of bump clearance I have to get an idea of my ride height. And that is on a 25.6" tire. I really wish we had a 24.x option in the 3xx tire widths but gotta play with what we got


I made a 1.25" fender spacer for the rear mount and it only move the area at wheel center 0.25". I needed that much space at the time so I used it but after I cut fenders I put them back normal mount. Youd really have to space out the front mount at the headlight to get any real width change which would then of course leave a funky fit with the headlight.

 

Yes, but it would be reversible (in theory).

That would spare me from the horrors of fender cutting. Those photos you posted of your fenders getting hacked up still haunt me.