i think he ended up going to a stock turbo/stock short block setup for reliability after blowing up a built motor with a bigger turbo. And that stock motor is apparently hurting now, so I’m not sure that’s a perfect example.

Last season (stock pan with HLA) I saw occasional concerning oil pressure dips in the carousel at Summit Point running 255 NT01s and around 350 whp at the time. It was less of an issue before installing Dallas’ top hats on my coilovers for more caster, so it’s really his fault

 

Yeah lower power level, but 275 hoho and stock oil pan, for multiple seasons with close to 12 events a year or more. And who knows if the current issue was starvation related. Say it had a baffled pan and oil scraper presumably it would live much longer though. I'm pretty convinced at under say 400whp and a 275 tire the modified wetsump, kiggly, crank scrapper would suffice for a long time.

 

Another thing to consider is the catch can/vent setup and how much oil is Really in the pan. I've noticed a little over a full quart during longer stints coming out of the back valve cover fitting.

 

Is the next step closer to this, active vs passive oil "movement".

Curious what pump you were thinking and was it going to be
lateral accel activated? (oil pressure activated, or both).

And what happens if the pump runs and there is no oil there?
(pump burns out??)

 

I bought quite a large 12V gear oil pump....


To activate it I designed a small switch that has a G sensor with an adjustable tripping point.. so that I can adjust the lateral G where the pump starts pumping... Problem with this system is that the electric pump is quite heavy and by the time you mount the pump and some sort of catch can you use up the same ammount of space as an external oil tank would... No real issue with the pump running dry because the second pickup will always get some oil..

There was a company in the UK that used a mechanical single stage scavenge pump with such a pan, which basically made it a transfer sump that worked all the time. However, there is little extra cost and effort to do a dry sump from there so I went that way in the end.
At one point I was thinking about internal transfer pump, which might be the ideal solution for a wet sump system but we have a problem of space in the block and drive for the pump... It would basically need some sort of custom oil pump... ideally placed in the ballance shaft area, and that means very little space for the pump.

 

Ive used those pumps for a diff cooler and they work fine. They ran also run dry but probably wouldnt wana leave it running dry for too long. Why not activate it via an input from the ecu measuring either G or oil pressure/rpm? Could also just put a level sensor in the other side of the pan and do it off that?

This still doesnt address the core problem of the oil getting trapped in the head of the engine and unable to scavenge back due to the G forces being applied. So youll still potentially run out of oil. depending how much volume u can get into the sump but its basically an elaborate Accusump with twice the complication.

It would almost be better to set up an external tank somewhere with a couple litres oil in it, You activate the pressure side pump when the engine calls for oil like an accusump does. (e.g off oil pressure or G force or level) Then scavenge back with a smaller pump off the top of the sump to refil the external tank. Kinda like a part time drysump. Ud only need like a 3 - 4L tank. The gear pump should be able to hold against the oil when its not running but no harm in putting a valve in also. you may even be able to do away with the feed pump alltogether and let it gravity feed like a balance tank and then scavenge back via a pump. effectively just maintaining the balance in the sump like a fuel surge tank.

 

the problem is that you need a huge electric pump to get the flow that is somewhat close to what is nedeed... In the end I decided that the dry sump system has some additional benefits that just make it a logical solution at not much larger cost... (the one I am making, not something off the shelf)

Controlling the electic pump from oil pressure is just too late... much better just running it from a G sensor... That electronics was actually quite simple and not expensive to do..

 

yea the more i think about it just go drysump hahaha.

I just wish i didnt use AN fittings on mine. they leak like buggery.

 

that is interesting.. I put together a setrab oil cooler with AN fittings and it never had any leaks... even though one of the fittings got pretty worn down by the inner mud guard..

Edited in... If I could find some small diameter steel flexible tubing (we call that "compensators") I would probably make my sump connect directly to the dry sump pump, with no AN fittings.. (would make everything cheaper.. hahaa )

 

AN fittings shouldn't leak.

 

Almost every setup uses AN lines....so whats the issue and what's better?

 

there are setups where the pump bolts directly to the sump.. like Verdi. That makes the whole system much "cleaner"

Personally I never had any issues with AN lines...

 

I have also never had AN race fitting leak. Considering I use them extensively to build fuel systems as well as and cooling and oil system stuff, they kinda can't leak. Otherwise we wouldn't use them.

 

when i say leak its like you get the odd drip from them. not like its tearing out. just the nature of aluminium on aluminium seats really.

 

Are you overtorquing them? Your can mess up the flare seat if they're overtorqued enough. I've never had issues with AN stuff either. One day I'll dry break everything on my car...