probably best dialed in track day ever!!!!

 

Nothing like 3 wheel steering! It doesn't look like the body took much, if any, damage at least.

 

wait, how on earth did the wheel not fly off?

EDIT: amazed the caliper kept that all together...

 

Crazy 3 wheel driving for sure. Full
boost and felt like the back end got punched. Amazingly, no body damage! Don’t know how. Tire nearly flopping over itself. Only the rotor and brake caliper kept it on as long as it did. I shut it down off line pretty quick. Getting on the trailer took alllllllll daaaaaaaay!

Huge thanks as always to my boy Frosty Tune for keeping the dream alive.

 

What did you have your axle nut torqued to out of curiosity?

 

Beats me. Done previously by a EVO shop, but also had a handful of track days.

 

I'm pretty sure @ViciousLSD had that happen to him as well lately. Interested to hear if he knows what he was torqued to.

 

Probably a few ugga duggas if I had to guess..........

 

I need some ideas on axles with racing level hubs. Need to purchase this week. Not sure I need crazy axles more than I need racing hubs to handle the higher grip and stress of racing.

Any thoughts? I’ll be shopping today.

After home and unloading, I can honestly say I am thankful I got away with no damage or incident on track. Could have been a lot worse. Might post up a couple minutes of track Go Pro. Boring vid, but glorious sounds!

 

Wow. Ya you jinx'd it - if you say it everything feels too good then something real bad's gonna happen lol. Was the hub already toast? (grip top and bottom and it moves up and down) Curt stopped doing the rear hubs because frankly it just needed a couple more ugga's and it was fine on a bi-yearly replacement cycle. They seem to like a ton of torque. I usually do a quick ugga, then I dugga to the 2nd line up position for the pin. Prolly around 200+ lbs if I had to guess. When the rears start to wear I remove the pins and just ugga before each weekend.

If you really wanted to you could go drag style - 3000GT rear hubs and axels from Driveshaft shop. Honestly though that's not going to improve "endurance" and will just add weight in my opinion. Plus it limits your replacement and upgrade parts.

 

I don't think an upgrade is needed here, you just need to put the rear hubs on replacement cycle. the axle broke because the hub failed.

Also, I torque to 200, then turn it the additional amount required to line up castle nut for the cotter pin. This is based on what I've read on here saying that higher torque helps them last longer. I also check the axle nut torque as part of track day prep.

 

Until Mitsu stops making those as well. So...Dallas...hows bout a billet racing hub

Someone did mention using GTR hubs but I forget where that went.

 

Love you guys and all your knowledge. Guess I’ll order new axles all around and make the hubs part of routine track prep/replacement cycle. Are we saying a quick call to O’reilly’s for EVO axles can get me back on track?

I didn’t have any signs or pre-warning something was wrong? Should I have?

Truth: this is my 2nd track day on 295/30 on wider 10.5 rims. We just softened the rear sway from stiff to middle for more rear grip and less oversteer. Also added rear neg camber prior to event. -4 I think? Felt like I was on Velcro! Loving it 😁. Rethinking it all and looking at it, is it possible the PF01’s (+38) no rear spacer are tweaking the hub....along with the neg camber setting? Kinda would like to
avoid another broken hub.

 

More torque is better for sure. Older Hondas have issues of loose nuts leading to hub failures. You definitely dodged a bullet with the brakes holding it all together.

Regular inspection and replacement of consumables is just as important as upgrading parts.

 

I would not get axles from Autozone/Oreillys, etc. Go with Driveshaft Shop or OEM.