....technically.
Don't want nippled fenders. 😂

 

They're also plastic, and would use a very coarse thread screw (almost like a wood screw), and strip somewhat easily. I don't have to worry about stripping the metal speed nuts and allen bolts I use

 

Nylon. I'm using the same ones since 2012 and on my 2nd belly cover now. i think i had #8 screws at some point and now #10 i'm still trying to find wide washer head screws... pairing screws and washers adds a few seconds to the process lol
btw I added some glue to the thingers so its 'permanent' and wont spin. I dont have one that is stripped, they're all snug, oh and they wont rust

 

All that plastic is unnecessary weight This is a time attack thread after all haha

 

People gawk at me for keeping most of my liners too. The less than one pound of weight they add is worth the gains in wheel well air control that's gained. Wheel wake is one of if not the most overlooked aspects of racing aerodynamics. Keeping smooth surfaces within the wheel well to help evacuate the turbulent air is definitely worthwhile.

 

yea 100% agree.

Unless uve got proper undertrays and/or a flat floor it definately helps to keep the liners in there.

 

also in my class its stock aero only. better to have the stuff that's there than nothing

 

question on handbrake shoes, are semi-metallic ones like these a good upgrade?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/373668011859
there might be cheaper sources

I had my first emergency brake moment on track. I feel i got lucky not having anyone in front of me, so I would like better emergency braking. I will be changing to Motul brake fluid

 

u boiled? no idea on the shoes, but would switch to castrol srf. titanium brake pad shims may help a little also.

 

ya i just had the valvoline stuff which was fine for several high traffic HPDEs, but boiled early in a TT. I have the grabby Hawk StreetRace 5.0 pads now too. I will definitely switch to castrol srf if motul, some brake cooling, and less trail braking dont work out. Thanks

 

Most good brake fluids are within 50deg or so in boiling point. When ur talking 600deg C 50deg C isnt much difference.

Basically if you boiled 1 fluid ull likely boil all fluid. As you said definately focus on brake cooling as its a big issue on evos. both front and rear brakes we found get too hot

 

really? i've never boiled the castrol, even when i thought i would

 

Motul sucks. I ran it for years, then got faster and wondered why my pedal would always be soft. I thought I was just "too fast". Then I switched to real brake fluid. At the time that was Torque, now it's Castrol SRF. I used to bleed my brakes at every event, now I go multiple events before having to bleed and no soft pedal. Anyone that says motul works well is either slow or on a go kart track.

Those hawk 5.0 pads aren't doing you any favors either. Get some real pads.

 

maann. everyone at the paddock blurted 'motul' (claims to be instructors who chose to live near the track, but just there to chitchat). I'll put srf after this weekend's TT. I was going to remove the 5.0 pads and switch to my old HPS (i know its not for TT duty, but its what I have) but the 5.0 pads finally stopped squealing after the TT We also have track sprints prior to TT, what track day pads would you recommend? Thanks

 

dude i love this discussion goin on here, im learning so much it hurts lol keep it up, ive learned about aero, brake pads and fluids, radiators and tires. i wish high school taught me as much as this board has lol i unfortunately wont be able to make any events this year since it took so long to get my car in the shop and built, being so short handed at his shop, a 3 day build is taking about 3 weeks now and our last event is oct 2nd and 3rd for HDPE i think but i can take all this info and apply it to next year, unless some God made miracle occurs and i can actually make it to the track this year??