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I use NAPA rubberized undercoat. It dries to a NOT sticky finish with some give to it... Like the coating on the right side in your picture.
Do RS's have that black undercoating? I hate this crap. The dirt is always oily and I've had it going to my eyes, hair, shirt, etc lol while working under the car. I'm done with the fronts, the rears are probably 4x the work but it'll be worth it
Last edited by ViciousLSD; Oct 2, 2021 at 10:53 PM.
Do RS's have that black undercoating? I hate this crap. The dirt is always oily and I've had it going to my eyes, hair, shirt, etc lol while working under the car. I'm done with the fronts, the rears are probably 4x the work but it'll be worth it
fuuuu*****¢¢¢¢kkk I've had that crap in my eyes more times than I can count.
just brushing on some flat white enamel. The original paint on the underside is so thin so I might apply enamel all over when its time to replace the fender liners. the rears will be 100% covered since it has that cream glue material all over. I'll do the same under the seats after a good power wash
Last edited by ViciousLSD; Oct 4, 2021 at 08:41 AM.
custom parts look nicer when theres no goopyshiet distraction
wouldnt that acid negatively impact the glue keeping the car together?
No, the substance you're referring to is seam sealer and that's really all it does, seal seams. It's there to keep water from flowing between sheet metal in the chassis. On older cars like ours just about the entire chassis is held together with resistance spot welds, it's still the most used form of sheet metal bonding in production cars today. Glues and adhesives really only come into play when you're bonding dissimilar materials like steel to composites or aluminum, which in that case you would want to remove those parts before acid dipping anyway.
It's kind of a multifaceted solution for a few things. Gives me a chance to seam weld the chassis, change some parts of the cage, eliminate any rust forming on the underside of the car, and give it all new paint and undercoating.
No, the substance you're referring to is seam sealer and that's really all it does, seal seams. It's there to keep water from flowing between sheet metal in the chassis. On older cars like ours just about the entire chassis is held together with resistance spot welds, it's still the most used form of sheet metal bonding in production cars today. Glues and adhesives really only come into play when you're bonding dissimilar materials like steel to composites or aluminum, which in that case you would want to remove those parts before acid dipping anyway.
It's kind of a multifaceted solution for a few things. Gives me a chance to seam weld the chassis, change some parts of the cage, eliminate any rust forming on the underside of the car, and give it all new paint and undercoating.
I thought this adhesive is what makes the chassis so stiff Thanks for the info
I'm sure white will be fun to keep clean hahaha. Looking good though!
Soapy water and a paint brush. I'm always under the wheel well anyway lol
Originally Posted by Balrok
Hmm, I got a truck I may need to do that on (not white lol), what epoxy did you use?
this is just the basic Home Depot Rustoleum flat white enamel paint. I still have to see how it holds, especially during winter. I'll just power wash it off it cracks or peels.
if you want a good undercoating, look into the CRC Corrosion Inhibitor, its clear-waxy, not black-rubbery. Has great reviews on youtube and even works on electric connections. I'm after a clean wheel well that wont collect brake dust and sand & shiet.
I've had experience with epoxy on the garage floor... never again!!
Last edited by ViciousLSD; Oct 5, 2021 at 11:44 AM.
finally got these today, but my 5" swift springs are stuck in some container somewhere. QQ: I should be going for the longest configuration for the rears right? anyone know how much (minimum) thread should be in that green canister? its just barely peaking thru that hole as pictured and it's a tad shorter that my KW v3
Thanks for the info
