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These are known in Japan etc as an airtrek. Im pretty sure from previous research that the diff inside is smaller so cant be used. Same bolt pattern though.
The OEM ring and pinion is currently back order. TRE has upgraded "Italian made" (his words) gear sets in stock last I spoke with him. They're $1200, vs $700 for oem. If OEM was available. I'd say stick with that. But you don't have a choice right now. And then for the front diff, you'll want a wavetrac or clutch type front diff. Wavetrac is $1k, clutch diffs are $1800+.
For Evo 9 clutch front is in the $1400 range (cusco) but Evo 8 needs a different housing for some reason that doubles the price from Cusco.
If you must run stock front diff (For instance can only upgrade 1 diff and it should be the rear) then Jon can detail your stock diff to give it a better chance.
The OEM ring and pinion is currently back order. TRE has upgraded "Italian made" (his words) gear sets in stock last I spoke with him. They're $1200, vs $700 for oem. If OEM was available. I'd say stick with that. But you don't have a choice right now. And then for the front diff, you'll want a wavetrac or clutch type front diff. Wavetrac is $1k, clutch diffs are $1800+.
Thanks. I got wavetrac. do these things need refreshing? i kinda like them tame/worn
I asked about hardened ring and pinion. TRE advised against it and suggested the relatively softer OEM set was better for my usage. When I ask a vendor about a $$$ upgrade and they try to talk me out of it, I usually listen.
Wavetrac diff for stock-like performance with bulletproof reliability. Clutch type could produce better performance but there were a lot of question about reliability due to clutch plates sharing the oil bath. Probably fine for a race car but I'd stick with Wavetrac if you do street driving.
I wouldn't if you don't have to. Just one more thing you may have to pay them to deal with it and makes it heavier to ship.
I usually pull mine with a slide hammer that uses a threaded adapter which threads right into the end of the stub shaft, takes all of 10 seconds to pull the stub shaft out once I have the CV axle off. Got mine off Amazon for like $80, well worth the price.
I wouldn't if you don't have to. Just one more thing you may have to pay them to deal with it and makes it heavier to ship.
I usually pull mine with a slide hammer that uses a threaded adapter which threads right into the end of the stub shaft, takes all of 10 seconds to pull the stub shaft out once I have the CV axle off. Got mine off Amazon for like $80, well worth the price.
Thanks. I have one from Harborfreight, which I used for my other car with a live axle.
yeah, I didnt want to sent out something TRE might forget to send back. Alrightey, sending this out, then maybe clean stuff under the car for awhile.
Scored these on ebay. I dont think these have even finished the 1st set of pads.
I'm a little paranoid... is there a chance the new seals fell off its perch when i put a piston in? I'll test once installed (suspension is atleast 1 week away), just want to know if thats even a possibility so i can revisit them
Has anyone's fingers get crushed by the brake pistons? just me? :P
Last edited by ViciousLSD; Sep 29, 2021 at 09:09 PM.
Scored these on ebay. I dont think these have even finished the 1st set of pads.
I'm a little paranoid... is there a chance the new seals fell off its perch when i put a piston in? I'll test once installed (suspension is atleast 1 week away), just want to know if thats even a possibility so i can revisit them
Has anyone's fingers get crushed by the brake pistons? just me? :P
that's "life fulfilled", better than sitting pretty in some chop shop I actually want to start removing the clearcoat and apply G2 paint. Was it chlorinated brake cleaner that f's it up?
that's "life fulfilled", better than sitting pretty in some chop shop I actually want to start removing the clearcoat and apply G2 paint. Was it chlorinated brake cleaner that f's it up?
Not sure. I just sanded mine down and tossed on some header paint. Keeps things cool enough that my vinyl decals are safe.
Well, it did. I have X calipers now.
waiting for parts...removed the undercoating and the caked brake dust with it
whats a good material to apply on this cream colored area? this side has a few chips but the other side is fugly from pressure washing. Something with a smooth finish. Anyone try Flex seal paste? That looks tough to apply evenly. I was researching CRC Corrosion Inhibitor but its seems to be some waxy build up that would collect brake dust