It's only an issue when the ebrake uses the brake caliper. You don't want the hot brake pad sitting on the rotor leaving a deposit of pad material. Drum ebrake it's not a concern.

 

ive never used the handbrake after a session. the disc is still super hot so will still be not good for the drum.

We ditched all the e brake assembly for extra brake disc cooling as my brakes were over heating.

 

Being serious?

I guess it makes sense the hat doesn't get as hot as the contact surface. My hats are steel with lots of ventilation between mount points... but I guess old habits die hard

 

Some of us aren't fast enough to cook the rears Hell, mine barely wear.

 

Yep. We've for a long long time disabled clutch switch so its not started on a dry thrust bearing.

 

you can use the switch as a secret cut off... so no random kid (or your codriver) can get in there and start the car . i use that cut off when in public parking areas

 

Never thought about that. I only start the car 24 times per year, so that should lengthen its life a bit.
Especially considering my old one lasted over 100k miles of daily driving.
Yes. I'm knocking on wood as I type this.

 

As in unplug the switch or?

 

Is the clutch switched shorted to think the pedal is down all the time? If so, launch control would still work? If so, I'm assuming it's disabled once the car starts rolling?

 

mine has a hidden manual switch. so i can start the car without getting on the seat

 

launch maps and NLTS go off the top clutch switch. Bottom switch is only for starting.

 

Gents. Today I lifted both left wheels and spun the propeller shaft. There's a considerable slack before it turns the diff and some clanking sound from transfer case side when I play with that slack. Anyway, I kept spinning it slowly, then it went fast felt like its skipping/slipping. Is it supposed to do that? the clanking sound comes and go. I took out the propeller shaft (dang that's heavy) to inspect the output shaft & yoke but nothing looks broken there.
I've been reading a bit on 'exploded front diffs'and ring & pinion issues, Tomorrow I plan to drain the front diff to see what comes out. I've never worked on this part of the car before. QQ...
is that zinc plate under the diff an "inspection hole"? https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...d-install.html
why is tranny fluid also drained in this DIY? what autozone fluids can I use to fill for just getting the car towed to the shop, and just in case they drive around the shop it by mistake?. I doubt I can ship something this big, in case this is where the problem is . thanks

 

Stock front diffs are a known weak point. If the ring and pinion is good and the cases aren't damaged then you can probably get away with just a diff upgrade.

The plate is an inspection plate but you may not be able to tell a whole bunch.

Definitely not an issue to ship a transfer case.

 

If you feel any kind of binding something probably isnt right. WIth the driveshaft just connected to the front can you determine if its front or rear? I would pretty much just go ahead and pull T-case at this point if its original and get that grenade (front diff) out.

 

Yes its definitely binding on the front side. I tried spinning the propeller shaft with rear flange disconnected.
I have wavetrac installed years ago... what type of damage can those get that would cause the binding? The binding seems less severe now. Just letting the car roll on my driveway in neutral (very slight slope), it would bind then continue rolling. I have not needed to pop it
Looking at the DIY I think I can tackle removing the LSD/inspect front axles) and (if pinion damaged) removing the rest of the TC in 2 separate steps. I have to catch up on my reading on how hard it is to put the whole thing back as one piece (on jack stands)