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thanks guys. i will probably do some kind of combo of dropping the rear and raising the front. i don't know if it's immediately apparent but i take it my level warrants the 1.25" correction length, not the 2" correction length?
I've been wondering the same. Probably both good with 1.25".
Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
Maybe it's just me but I made sure my stock control arm bushings we're un-flexed after making big ride height changes. I'm not normally this **** lol
I was asking about the camber at top hat vs strut mount as i can do both but generally i just max out the top hat. If its more beneficial to do this at the strut mount down below i would rather swap it around but i dont understand the geometry enough to know whats better.
I've been wondering the same. Probably both good with 1.25".
Always tighten control arms at ride height.
Any wheel alignment adjustments should be done with the body weight on the car. The car should be on slip plates. i built some platforms which slide under my wheels which the car sits on when doing alignments
I was asking about the camber at top hat vs strut mount as i can do both but generally i just max out the top hat. If its more beneficial to do this at the strut mount down below i would rather swap it around but i dont understand the geometry enough to know whats better.
I max out the bottom. That way if for some reason i have to dismantle the suspension I just need to max it out again. plus I wont need it to be super tight
Any wheel alignment adjustments should be done with the body weight on the car. The car should be on slip plates. i built some platforms which slide under my wheels which the car sits on when doing alignments
only for those rubbery flex OE bushings I think. for alignment, sure.
Alright, time to make some comments on this but just in cliff note style
Top hat adjustment effects SAI
We have high SAI from factory, more camber up top adds to it. Its not great but you can offset it with more caster
The angle of the strut effects slider axis
On a macstrut car this is your camber gain. This effects the angle between lower control arm and strut.
I havent seen a software program get this right. They all use Steering Axis for camber gain, that is WRONG. Dramatically wrong in the case of Evos.
The lower mount has a lot of adjustment range, care needs to be taken which side of the hole slop you end up.
You can bias it fully out for positive camber, fully in for negative camber, or even adjust in the middle.
Tighten the hell out of these bolts. Mine are usually 100+ ft-lbs. Factory spec can slip.
You can use @ayoustin insert to tighten up that slop if you want to forget about this point. I this his attempt to center it?
Tire clearance is a consideration
Moving top adjustment inboard as much as possible and pulling camber out at the lower mount will give more clearance to the spring or strut body (which ever you're is limited by)
SSB standard uprights use a longer strut mount to move the strut inboard 8mm extra for tire clearance. My crazy strut mount moves it 20mm for maximum inboard clearance but I have special needs
My approach even before front uprights was to maximize the top camber/caster and adjust camber purely by the strut mount.
This also required ensuring subframe was adjusted to get even camber left/right each time is was loosened.
I would set camber at max with the strut mount slop and snug the bolts so it wouldn't slip. Put the tire on, measure how much camber I had and reduce as needed. Then tighten the bolts to hold. These are huge bolts, m14s. They can take a lot of torque, 125-130 ft-lbs is a good start.
Originally Posted by bee-raddd
wow you guys talk alot in a couple days haha,
I was asking about the camber at top hat vs strut mount as i can do both but generally i just max out the top hat. If its more beneficial to do this at the strut mount down below i would rather swap it around but i dont understand the geometry enough to know whats better.
I assume what your saying is its better to do camber at the bottom? I have offset hole inserts i can use like what Ayoustin makes, but i dont have them fitted currently. So wondering if maybe i should fit them instead to get my camber and put the top hat more neutral. Currently the top hats are almost maxed out but bottom just has the factory camber bolt installed
Im not saying its better one way or another, just that there are situation for both. But if you have caster added, I would max out the top and adjust via strut slots to maximize tire clearance and slider axis angle (camber gain). But stock caster here will hurt you cause the camber loss from SAI.
Im not saying its better one way or another, just that there are situation for both. But if you have caster added, I would max out the top and adjust via strut slots to maximize tire clearance and slider axis angle (camber gain). But stock caster here will hurt you cause the camber loss from SAI.
Perfect yea that makes more sense for the simpleton's haha. I have your hubs + caster top hats so guess what im doing now is sweet as
I max out the bottom. That way if for some reason i have to dismantle the suspension I just need to max it out again. plus I wont need it to be super tight
I used to do the same in order to get as much camber as I could with the plates I used to have. My current tire requires the strut to be maxed out the other way, though. All camber via the plates. Luckily they have enough adjustment.
The inserts I linked allow you to put the camber adjustment bolt at either max or min camber and then you adjust at the tophat from there. I run them on my Fit and it's nice knowing I can smash the **** out of curbing without fear of anything getting knocked around in the alignment.
Also, the stock evo bolt has an eccentric shoulder underneath the bolt head, you won't be able to use that with these, you'll need to buy a second lower bolt which doesn't have the eccentric shoulder.
That's not the stock bolt. I'm referring to the stock bolt which has 2 camber settings. If the flange on the bolt head doesn't have 2 flat edges it's not the stock bolt.
oh. I wonder where I got that bolt from. I have been using the generic cam bolt on my KW v3 since forever, it gives a little bit more camber adjustment. I can make it work with your lock but there's not enough space. I was hoping Camber Lock C would work
Hi gents. Is wrapping the exhaust with those fiberglass wraps still a thing? Or is there a new way of doing this?
I just put aluminum tape on my wrap, hoping it wont hold liquids/oil to burn up anymore
