Time Attack Advice
yes that's kind of an option BUT the top hat has a ~15mm protrusion/guide to center the spring (it begins after the silver washer), so if your spring/slider goes lower it can get jammed. Maybe the dust boot + helper spring seat can keep the spring/slider centered , or the guide can be extended?
I think I did convince FA to sell me an extended lower bracket-tube. Paid, lead time up to 3.5weeks. I'm aware the control arms can only go so far down, so I'll be watching out for that.
There's another thing, the FA fronts don't have a bung for the camber bolts. wtf. I'm not sure why they didn't include it in the design. Maybe I can max out the camber bolt setting and fill the gap with something?
I think I did convince FA to sell me an extended lower bracket-tube. Paid, lead time up to 3.5weeks. I'm aware the control arms can only go so far down, so I'll be watching out for that.
There's another thing, the FA fronts don't have a bung for the camber bolts. wtf. I'm not sure why they didn't include it in the design. Maybe I can max out the camber bolt setting and fill the gap with something?
So heres a question for young playas,
Is there a difference between adjusting camber via a top had and adding offset camber inserts to the bottom of the strut, Particularly around camber gain under compression etc
Is there a difference between adjusting camber via a top had and adding offset camber inserts to the bottom of the strut, Particularly around camber gain under compression etc
I think the angle at the ball joint is reference point. I do think where you get the camber 'angles' matter for the efficiency of your shocks/springs and how it supports the 'center of gravity'. I use both and the suspension look like a 'zigzag system' instead of a "/".. what bothers me is if there's some kind of 'bowing' on the shock
Last edited by ViciousLSD; Oct 20, 2021 at 08:52 AM.
- Top hat adjustment effects SAI
- We have high SAI from factory, more camber up top adds to it. Its not great but you can offset it with more caster
- The angle of the strut effects slider axis
- On a macstrut car this is your camber gain. This effects the angle between lower control arm and strut.
- I havent seen a software program get this right. They all use Steering Axis for camber gain, that is WRONG. Dramatically wrong in the case of Evos.
- The lower mount has a lot of adjustment range, care needs to be taken which side of the hole slop you end up.
- You can bias it fully out for positive camber, fully in for negative camber, or even adjust in the middle.
- Tighten the hell out of these bolts. Mine are usually 100+ ft-lbs. Factory spec can slip.
- You can use @ayoustin insert to tighten up that slop if you want to forget about this point. I this his attempt to center it?
- Tire clearance is a consideration
- Moving top adjustment inboard as much as possible and pulling camber out at the lower mount will give more clearance to the spring or strut body (which ever you're is limited by)
- SSB standard uprights use a longer strut mount to move the strut inboard 8mm extra for tire clearance. My crazy strut mount moves it 20mm for maximum inboard clearance but I have special needs
- My approach even before front uprights was to maximize the top camber/caster and adjust camber purely by the strut mount.
- This also required ensuring subframe was adjusted to get even camber left/right each time is was loosened.
- I would set camber at max with the strut mount slop and snug the bolts so it wouldn't slip. Put the tire on, measure how much camber I had and reduce as needed. Then tighten the bolts to hold. These are huge bolts, m14s. They can take a lot of torque, 125-130 ft-lbs is a good start.
I dont know about that. See here https://youtu.be/UgZF3Jr5i8s?t=324
Is this person here? Ben Lin? I love his videos. His car's handling looks really bad to me. Lots of problems and incidents but he and his team keep making it work.
Is this person here? Ben Lin? I love his videos. His car's handling looks really bad to me. Lots of problems and incidents but he and his team keep making it work.
Is that you in the video? I envy you guys
i have a really similar suspension set up to him, we do run soft fronts. what does too little droop in the rear mean? not enough droop travel?
no i dont think im in that one but i've showed up in a few - i do a mini interview in the NCM video. that was not a great event for me.
i have a really similar suspension set up to him, we do run soft fronts. what does too little droop in the rear mean? not enough droop travel?
i have a really similar suspension set up to him, we do run soft fronts. what does too little droop in the rear mean? not enough droop travel?
just a few post above we have been discussing droop. I feel that you have to have more turning angle to 3 wheel under acceleration.... and I feel it shouldn't 3 wheel while braking. I saw one video where Ben's car caught air jumping a curb, his springs were oscillating a bit so shocks might need to be set a bit harder. just observing unexpected behavior
optimal or not, i dont know - but he's got people who know much more than i do that are helping with his car setup, and by coincidence, we reached basically the same conclusion in terms of setup.
gotcha. i would say we are three-wheeling any time we are not braking in a straight line, which is practically every traditional corner entry. any 3 wheeling under acceleration is almost immediately resolved.
optimal or not, i dont know - but he's got people who know much more than i do that are helping with his car setup, and by coincidence, we reached basically the same conclusion in terms of setup.
optimal or not, i dont know - but he's got people who know much more than i do that are helping with his car setup, and by coincidence, we reached basically the same conclusion in terms of setup.










