yeah i saw that first time. he accepts paypal though. "Buyer pays return shipping" is the deal breaker for me

 

Gents,
is water + Royal Purple Ice still the best option?
also removing the brake dustshields, do i need to heat proof the ABS sensor wires? So far i have just strapped it down with steel wire
TIA

 

Purple ice works very well, used it for years and years now, not a single overheating issue even on a red flag after 14 laps nose to tail. Yes deff wrap your ABS wires with the wire shield DEI or other. It's getting harder and harder to find the sensors. Front only, rear doesn't see near the radiant heat/position.

 

Thanks!

 

Titanium shims...thicker is better i assume?
1.2mm from Russia
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25461808002...4AAOSwQ~hbk84p

https://www.ebay.com/str/yperiontita...(evo%2C+lancer)

 

It's nearly impossible to find real data on brake shims.

From a physics perspective, titanium isn't a good insulator at all. A fraction of a millimeter of any metal isn't going to provide much insulation. I suspect much of the benefit of shims comes from adding another interface between the pistons and the pad. I suspect the tiny gap created by the imperfect surfaces contributes more insulation than the metal itself.

$200 is a lot to pay for shims. At that point, I'd suggest getting Racing Brake's stainless steel pistons instead: https://racingbrake.com/bm-41p

The SS pistons conduct less heat. They're also chamfered where they meet the pad to reduce the contact area, reducing thermal transfer.

 

yeah they look to function as heatshields. I'm getting the rebuild kit with SS pistons

 

Been running my car on $20 ebay sensors for years now. Just make sure that they have sufficient air gap and they work fine.

 

I use Evan's waterless. Some get scared from it because the operating temp is *slightly* higher than water, but nowhere close to dangerous. Benefit = NO hotspots.100% even temps so.what your gauge says is what it is, everywhere.
Other advantages are: no acid, rust, electrolysis, or corrosion. No more than 7psi of pressure, so can literally run without a cap best of all: no pressure on OEM end tanks, so I have 147k miles on the OEM radiator. My friends and I use it in all our track cars. I heart it.
​​​​

 

That makes no sense. Pressure = boiling point and temperature difference = heat transfer.

Also, if you have no change in temperature across your cooler (radiator) or across your heater (block) then the water is doing no work, meaning no energy transfer or cooling. Thats now how a cooling system works.

 

Yea, the cylinder head will always run hotter than anywhere else in the cooling system. Just because your coolant isn't boiling doesn't mean there isn't heat transfer occurring, otherwise there'd be no reason to have a cooling system in the first place.

I stick with water and a corrosion additive because glycol based coolants on track are a huge nono. A glycol spill is almost as dangerous as an oil spill in terms of making a track dangerous for other drivers and for fire hazard reasons. If you weren't aware, glycol is combustible and I've seen coolant fires before, they're just as serious as oil and brake fluid fires.

 

I didn't mean the exact same temperature throughout the entire system. I'm told water allows for differences in "pockets" of the engine resulting in inconsistent cooling and other weird stuff that happens to the water. Spikes in temp, but only in that area, etc.
as for the rest this explains it better than I can because I was in too much of a hurry to explain it all

https://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/benefits/

 

I'd try cheap shims of any material before I spent $200 on Ti shims.

Stainless steel has low thermal conductivity if that's what you're going for. I think they're titanium mostly for marketing purposes.

 

Before coolant boils you get micro boil points on surface hot spots usually in the cylinder head. It's tied to cavitation and changing the type of coolant you run won't change how the system cavitates. If it cavitates there's air, and the air will make micro hot spots, whether the coolant boils or not.

Lower pressure to preserve an plastic radiator makes good sense, but realistically, if that stuff was world changing like they make it out to be, everybody would be using it.

 

I think it's just preference. Seems to be kind of a "thing" with NHRA (they recently approved it for use) and off road stuff. If I ever have to go with an aluminum radiator, I'd possibly stop using it. The stuff is expensive. I'm sure adding an anti corrosive as mentioned above will take care of the rest.
it was nice having a perfect water pump after two years of zero maintenance, though. Not sure if costs balance out.
we've really liked using it over the pay few years. My one, main complaint is that you have to have extra with you at all times. If you have to toss in water in an emergency situation, you have to start aaaaall over. LOL
Here is a quote from the tech page in case anyone is curious:
"Water-based coolant boils at a temperature only slightly higher than the operating temperature of the coolant. The boiling point of water-based coolant is somewhat above the boiling point of water for the pressure of the system. Localized boiling releases water vapor that can only condense into coolant that is colder than the boiling point of water. Any vapor that doesn’t condense occupies a volume that displaces liquid coolant. Water vapor is a very poor conductor of heat. Hot engine metal, insulated by water vapor, becomes an engine “hot spot” that can cause pre ignition and detonation. In contrast, the boiling point of Evans waterless coolant is much higher than the bulk coolant temperature and any locally generated vapor condenses immediately into the surrounding bulk coolant. There is no persistent vapor to insulate between hot metal and the liquid coolant. Liquid coolant is in contact with all of the coolant jacket at all times, providing a path of excellent heat transfer away from the hot metal."