remove the inspection port and rotate it over that allows you to check the ring n pinion at least to see if youve broken a tooth. If not youve either popped the torque tube that runs thru from the gearbox or youve broken the front diff planetary gears or something similar in the front diff. being a wavetrac though they are bulletproof generally. they will warrant them too.

Start with the inspection port that will eliminate the ring n pinion at least which is normally the weak point

 

I was kinda excited to report that there's *only tiny pieces on my drain plug*, then I removed that plate

I did not know this plate is magnetic

7 consecutive teeth damaged, no idea about pinion

OK. I'd like to own a 2nd transfer case unit. I'm probably the only one left who doesn't have an extra one. Does any one sell them built already? If not i'll start checking salvage yards.
Am I supposed to get upgraded R&P? I see Jack's got that option. Then there's this, not sure who installs these in their build service, anyone knows? https://www.ebay.com/itm/322136186173
Or should I stick to factory parts? I kinda miss that AWD launch
Should I be worried the trans could be damaged by this? I'll start dismantling stuff (gawd help me) if I should just focus on the TC. TIA for the leads

 

Have Jon at TRE build one for you, if you can reach him. He does the best work, IMO.
as for having extra drivetrain parts...not all of us are that serious. I have none, but I make a lot less power and race a lot less than most people here.

 

I emailed teamrip. we'll see if he picks up. thanks.
I'm not "serious" I think. It just saves a whole lot of time, Local shops are just too busy with GTRs, so maybe I can use a regular shop for straight swaps

 

I've honestly never heard of people running an upgraded ring and pinion. The main issue stems from the cases flexing and allowing the ring and pinion to become momentarily misaligned under high torque. All that's needed is to upgrade the size of the case bolts (this is a service TRE and other evo driveline builders offer). The larger bolts allow for greater clamping force to hold the cases together better which keeps the ring and pinion meshed properly. The diff on the other hand, well the only fix for that is an aftermarket unit because all the factory diffs have not super strong gears.

As long as you're not dumping the clutch and cold shocking the drivetrain these cars are fairly robust once the transfer case has been sorted.

 

I have not launched the car since I broke the axle 2+ years ago. Clutch was installed <100mi ago.. Maybe using the handbrake did something? wont it only take one small piece to get between the gears for it to start chewing itself up?
Here's another DSM guy with the 'hardened' gear set https://www.ebay.com/itm/373662250008

 

I only launch my car at AutoX events, and only on my fastest run...maybe two if I FUBAR the first.
I use the stock launch control RPM, slip the clutch until the car juuust gets moving, then let it out.
Never any other time.
138k miles on my t-case. *knocking on wood*

 

Ive smashed 2 ring n pinions in transfer case while mid race. Ive been told by Ralliart here that the ring and pinions are prone to hairline cracking and eventually these cracks shatter the gearing. They replace them once a rally season in all their rally cars and never have issues. As for the cases flexing i dont know if they do or not. maybe? I have a spare transfer case unit i picked up nice and cheap which i keep as a spare in the shed and i have a spare ring and pinion also. Biggest issue lately is theres like a 15 month wait on ring n pinions from mitsubishi last time i enquired.

Your very lucky it didnt smash the casing as normally the teeth go around the ring gear and smash out the side of the casing ruining the T/C. if the ring gears toast the pinion will also be toast. good news is your diff will probably be fine just give it a good clean out in a parts washer make sure you get all the bits of ring n pinion out of it lol

As for hardened/ billet ring n pinions i looked into them around a year ago. tried to get some info on them from magnus and ive had longer conversations with my dog than i could get out of them so they didnt get my business. Couldnt get any decent info or replies from them regarding the product.

Ayoustin you wouldnt know exactly which bolts they upgrade and to which size do you? Its unviable for me to ship a TC to TRE or anybody but wouldnt mind trying this on my spare case here myself and see if it makes a difference.

 

i have never even done that. best I can do is some kinda double launch but rarely. i broke my stock output shaft doing that on some concrete that dont really get driven on. I went home on a AAA truck 6 times already, 7th was with this ring gear

 

It's 15 year old , so I guess it had a good run

Just for fun guys, is the Mitsu Endeavor TC very similar to ours, with a different cover? Which detail is off?

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...30734&_sacat=0

 

Is it only the cover that cracks or the rest of the casing? I should probably buy an extra cover lol

I checked that Magnus guy, dang he's got crazy parts

 

I only have about 430whp.

 

I'm 405 on VirtualDyno, 365 on Mustang Dyno. 71HTA only

 

Normally the teeth sheer off then get dragged around the TC via the intact teeth and they wedge between the crown wheel and the casing and blow the casing out as they have nowhere else to go.

If you can find a cover on its own then for sure!

 

These are known in Japan etc as an airtrek. Im pretty sure from previous research that the diff inside is smaller so cant be used. Same bolt pattern though.


This link here post #8 https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...-same-evo.html