I just use redline water wetter which seems to work good. our cars generally dont have issues with overheating regardless ive found.

 

They do pretty well. That's why I don't worry about how Evans runs a few degrees warmer, on average, than water. No risk of damage. But hey.. my radiator has almost 147k miles on it and I'm not seeing any signs of stress on the end tanks
One day, I'll find a CSF radiator, toss it in, and to back to water.

 

whelp. I left the car at the track/venue overnight. Looks like I broke the right side rear axle again (Insane Shafts this time). I didnt launch hard i swear (3rd track sprint run) but it did break after start and it was already rolling when I WOT. If i was 3-wheeling prior I did not feel any violent landings. Haven't had a chance to take a look at the damage. On top of that, all the AAA truck drivers are unavailable. My TRE built LSD was "skippy/clanky" when new but only during very slow tight turns... wonder if that was the main issue. I got a back up original axle, still debating if i should fix it there or if it broke inside the hub like last time, I can just remove the broken material so it can be winched onto a flat bed. Just my luck on this track, this is the 4th time with this car and none of them were good days We will rebuild and try again

 

Damn your breaking axles? at what power level? I have all stock axles and have never had an issue launching/drag racing etc.

Maybe theres another issue with your setup somewhere. Where abouts are they breaking?

 

I ran on E85 for this event, 347hp peak on a Mustang Dyno, The first one broke just past the hub (not inside) of the hub. That one had rust where it snapped so I believe that crack was there for a long time. No idea yet on this latest one but it feels similar.

 

I've seen a few Insane Shaft axles fail. From my third hand experience, OEM is better than anything else.

 

Sorry to hear, dude. Good luck!

 

Yep go back to standard axles. What diff mounts do you have etc. maybe your getting some excess knock from your diff or its sitting on a funny angle. Your not running wheel spacers or really low(wide) offset wheels or anything like that are you that could be stressing the axle?

im at 650HP at wheels and have been for years doing countless full race launches and drag racing etc and ive never had an issue with an axle or CV. Maybe if your spending long periods 3 wheeling and its the shock when the tyre hits the deck again and has to catch up but i wouldnt think so unless your in a reliant robin

 

I went to the track to get my car. I removed the right rear axle but it looks fine, hub/bearing/parking brake are fine also. Hopefully tomorrow I can finally get it home (will call AAA first thing in the morning). I tested spinning the left rear and I didnt feel any grinding. For some reason I forgot to bring a 24mm socket to drain the LSD fluid. A number of supercars on track today. I doubt they have a 24mm.
I must be popping the tabs on the LSD friction plates or maybe a bolt backed out? TRE got markers on the diff casing bolts. I doubt there's warranty on these. should I just open it up when i get the chance? or send it unopened?

My car is about original height, no spacers in the back, the rear tire sticks out maybe 10mm. Axle nut was not too tight, I got it removed with just the parking brake applied. I know I have Torque Solutions (?) mounts but I have 2 diffs I have to check what's on the car
I couldnt find original axles when i broke mine so the Insane Shaft was the last resort. I found the original right rear axle on ebay after 6mos

 

How old is the diff? If its relatively new id ring them up and say its broke and get their advice on whether they want you to send it back or not. youll get warranty on workmanship etc so if something has failed or backed out etc should be covered.

If you open it yourself youll instantly void any chance of getting anything fixed as a warranty or out of courtesy. so i guess have that conversation with them and see what they want to do about it. If they dont want to help at all (which i doubt) or they are happy for you to crack open an inspection port or cover then they can advise.


Sounds to me like the first one was a random failure due to the crack you mentioned and this might be a diff failure. Wont really know much more till somebody opens it.

 

Why do you say it is broken? Did it make a loud bang noise or was it driving differently? These diffs don't break super often, though it's not impossible. If you just had TRE rebuild it I'd reach out to John and see what he says before doing anything internal to the diff.

 

Thanks.
I got the TRE diff and IS axles Dec 2019 then my clutch popped. Got that sorted around Feb 2020 but I didnt use the car during the covid and election craziness. My first event was the Aug 21-22 2021. 2nd TT was Sep 6 2021. Not more than 20 racing miles. No hard launches. Redline + additive, twice.
Other than the ACD tune, thats all there is back there. We'll see when I get to drain the fluid

BTW I've decided to rebuild Evo X front calipers with SS pistons instead. Parts are en route

 

there was a thud/crunch, then I believe there was some grinding sound while rolling from momentum. It would roll slowly with power then it would reach a point that I would need to pop it (drive the car a bit) when the tow vehicle couldn't get the car rolling. I think we had to do that 5x, once every 50ft or so. I thought it was bits of metal inside the hub since the right rear is where I felt it. now I have no idea since the right rear axle look fine. Now I think about it, I dont think i was able to move the car forward when I broke the axle. So its possible this issue is with the diff. Just speculating of course

 

This might sound crazy, i apologize in advance. both IS axles are fine, lsd oil is light gray, not much shavings and no prizes coming out. Initially i was disappointed and confused. I was packing up for the night putting back the hub and rotor and test spun it a few times then it snagged super tight... the drum brake was engaging. I dont know if the simple explanation is that my rotor is warped, or if this 'burnt' part has too much friction or something is screwed up (more on this) or all of it. The clank/thud likely came from the lsd, like when making tight turns. this is the first time it made that sound going straight since one wheel is braking.

 

Some sequence of events before the big bang....
1. on the Aug 22 TT, i had to pull the emergency hand brake hard when I lost pedal pressure, going well into 5th gear. pretty sure the rear brakes were very hot at this point
2. days later i tested my 11" wheel and moved the brake cable to run more along the trailing arm which stretched it a bit. not sure how big of an impact that is. it does move with the trailing arm
3. i inspected the drum brakes. pads seem thick as new. I wanted to replace the pads but I didnt get any new springs/hardware so I just put lithium grease where its recommended. the pad seems freer to self adjust more. I didnt inspect the drum. I did swap rotors left<->right since the fronts have directional vanes, rears dont have directional vanes but swapped them anyway. I guess now the brake surface is moving in the opposite direction (not sure if thats important)
4. I change to motul fluid, bedded the pads hard until the rotor surface is shiny. tested the hand brake several times.
5. I drove 50miles to the track and didnt have any issue. I never used the parking brake on grid but I did check if the hand brake is good since my pedal *seems* to be getting mushy. rolled to the start fine, feathered the clutch and once its rolling I mashed the throttle then bang. some popping/slowing as I roll to the infield/cross over. the locking is a lot more severe from stand still to getting pulled by a tow vehicle. it remained in this state since that moment. the drum pads seem slightly off center

A series of events is typical for my (bad) luck. seems one thing leads me to another thats why i thought of listing them down