Time Attack Advice
Most of the pro racing cars i work on dont have any of this at all, like you said they become an oil soak.
Thanks. Yeah I'm not sure why I started doing it LOL. something about keeping the heat in the tubes makes it flow better. I'll get a new downpipe when I replace bolts & gaskets
New very informative video just dropped. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhH-AwUu7HU
what an amazing team. Professional Awesome had an appearance btw
what an amazing team. Professional Awesome had an appearance btw

No wonder TRE isn't working on my transfer case!
I wonder what fluid he put in previously, local car parts store should have Penzoil Synchromesh, is that for a 6 speed?
I feel bad for the guy with his crankcase ventilation i$$sue. He should consider a catch can system with oil return like mine
I saw the video above and all I thought was man the folks on this forum can't even seem to get this company on the phone half the time but he got more or less same day service. Guess you guys better start being famous youtubers
i didn't watch the video but we were SCRAMBLING to get a hold of someone at TRE that day, reaching out to literally everyone we knew who might know someone. It also helps that gingerman is maybe a 45 minutes from kalamazoo
I’m assuming for most of us here running 18” wheels with 25” diameter tyres doing more track mileage than street, 2” correction is the route to go?
Last edited by TimC909; Oct 26, 2021 at 09:32 AM.
The ideal scenario is to aim for RC to be around ground level. You can do above or below depending on your needs but I did some testing this year shifting RC 30mm above ground and 750lb/in springs and at ground level with 800lb/in springs. The 800 and ground level just slightly edged out the win for feel and front bite.
So If you run with a ~1" gap fender to tire (stock size tire) then a 1.25" upright may be the right option. Especially if you pair with the lower control arms and their 10mm extra adjustment. But if you are going all out and trying to get front CG as low as possible and closer to flush with the tire to fender then the 2" is the right choice.
So If you run with a ~1" gap fender to tire (stock size tire) then a 1.25" upright may be the right option. Especially if you pair with the lower control arms and their 10mm extra adjustment. But if you are going all out and trying to get front CG as low as possible and closer to flush with the tire to fender then the 2" is the right choice.
can i still raise the front by adding preload? i don't imagine there'd be too much negative impact as long as u are always compressed more than what you preload, which i think i always will be even during acceleration
My TC is in, it took all weekend, Questions:
1) do all the subframe bolt holes need to be centered? the small bolt hole wasn't centered before so a bolt thread was squished. It came in the same way and I'm not sure if I can change that
2) new ring & pinion, is 1000mi break in required? Is ~200mi ok I wont be doing any hard launches
3) Is this the Koyo radiator people are getting for their IX? Any better options, mainly trying replace the OE rad before it breaks on me
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...-koyo-hh031610
Thanks!
1) do all the subframe bolt holes need to be centered? the small bolt hole wasn't centered before so a bolt thread was squished. It came in the same way and I'm not sure if I can change that
2) new ring & pinion, is 1000mi break in required? Is ~200mi ok I wont be doing any hard launches
3) Is this the Koyo radiator people are getting for their IX? Any better options, mainly trying replace the OE rad before it breaks on me
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...-koyo-hh031610
Thanks!










