they also shifted the nuts out of those cars. those drivers did not give a **** how long those cars lasted

 

Now that the TC is in i can factor in main spring compression




trying to make some adjusters for the rear

 

apparently its gear/motor oil spray, soot from oil that gets fried + stuff from the road. I have a bit of oil leak(overfilled on purpose) and my clean bottom has a thin film.

 

i wish my adjusterrs were located on the top

 

This is the best tool for my FA rears that I can find so far. I happen to have one from a previous faucet upgrade. Good feedback for those "clicks"

 

the way the space is under the ohlins i doubt i could even get a tool up there. leave me the choice of either racing at the bottom and making the knobs basically unreachable or raising via preload which is supposedly not ideal. i dont think in the fronts this should matter as much since they'll never be unloaded at least. i've got my car in the shop doing some weight balance adjustments but afterwards i'll drop the rears a touch more.

 

That's terrible, and potentially dangerous. I'd go nuts if I need to test settings. I barely have time to adjust air pressures and gather my thoughts when doing autox'/track sprints sometimes.
My other car has adjustments at the bottom also. I carry a folding windshield sunscreen around so I can lay down on it when making quickie adjustments

 

yea i mean i can personally reach it but as u raise it it travels further up the bottom perch and harder and harder to get my hands/fingers around the knob to turn it - like try to reach the bottom of a tall glass you're washing.

i use cardboard but folding windshield screen is not a bad idea - waterproof too, more or less.

 

Ohlins front rebound adjusters are on the bottom because it's an inverted damper. Fortune doesn't use inverted dampers unfortunately. Inverted is desirable for macstrut suspensions since they're more robust and less prone to flexing under high load.

 

You should be setting your droop travel and then not touching it and setting ride height via spring perch ("Preload") I can easily reach my front adjusters when the car is on the ground and my car is only like 50mm off the ground

 

Gents. So I've been looking into oil coolers. I don't like those with AN fittings ... Is it a bad idea to use properly sized barb, quality hose & basic clamps? Trans oil cooler & Engine oil cooler is pretty much the same, right?
What's so special about Setrab? What's so bad about cheaper brands like Derale? Is 30k BTU/hr good enough for track sprints (I don't plan to do full race session)? Can I pressure test (125psi) these oil coolers for 24hrs and conclude they're good if they dont blow up/leak? Thanks

 

Your over thinking it a little bit. Factory oil cooler is generally sufficient so no point changing it if you dont have to. Id imagine there isnt much difference between a trans and engine cooler. Honestly cant comment about why Setrab are better than others people just like them. think its more brand envy than anything. I use a cheap no name one and its been fine. I guess you might get slightly better internal design with a setrab like how you do with a better intercooler with how efficient it is at cooling but it doesnt really matter for us.

Not sure why your against AN fittings? But you should be fine with a barb as long as it can handle say 150psi. factory one uses banjo's so can do that also i guess?


I think you should do some logging first if you havnt already and conclude if you actually need one in the first place. if your under 110deg c i wouldnt even bother with the upgrade.

 

AN fittings are more reliable than barb/clamp. Not sure why you wouldn't want to run them.

The setrab 50-625-7612 is a 33,000-45,000 btu/hr cooler. With a 7qt pan my car ran 230*F oil temp at laguna seca for 30 minute session on an 80*F day. I would only use a Setrab cooler, they are the most efficient.

 

Thanks. I'm looking to relocate the ACD, I think it would be better if I move the oil cooler to the front of the radiator. I think I can reuse the stock unit but sometimes I prefer to work on a 2nd unit to avoid "downtime" and also be able to "roll back" (sorry for the IT term) if needed. maybe an upgrade to OE unit would be good also. I did just learn about the low temp thermostats last night ... I'm not sure if this would be a good thing to install. I did read about other's oil temp concerns so I was trying to tackle it before I even encounter it
I've worked with AN fittings before. its a bit of a hassle sometimes, and can be an eyesore. I'll research for more compact 90degree AN fittings if I go for an aftermarket oil cooler. I was planning to use a banjo with a barb hose end when I posed the question

 

Its mostly about the space they occupy making a turn.