I used to see 260*+ with the OEM cooler in summer weather so had to start backing off and taking cool down laps. I went to a 6.5ish QT pan and a Setrab cooler. Now I top out around 230-240 or so. This is in 90-100* weather. If the cooler doesn't matter then it looks like you need a larger oil capacity. I assume both are contributing, so would definitely recommend a cooler upgrade.

 

I was looking for the upgraded oil pan before I did the crank scrapers but cant find one. Maybe I'll get one later

 

You can get low profile fittings. Or use banjo's on the OFH and straight hose ends.

 

is that the banjo with barb? thats what i was thinking to use initially

 

On thing to think about before relocating the cooler is the ducting is a massive portion of the systems efficiency. A cooler hanging out in open air does some but air is lazy and will walk around it more than push through.

You really need to create a pressure differential between the front and rear to get function out of it. And moving it in front of the radiator makes for a tough situation where air hits the cooler and radiator and just stalls because the passage of air is much smaller than the opening. The radiator has the benefit of a lower pressure behind it but the cooler will just be all in high pressure. So either you duct in front AND behind the core or you add a fan.

 

In my experience many "normal" sized coolers don't need ducting to be sufficient though they work exceptionally better with ducting for sure. Ducting is much more needed for the stock location than the front center grille because it lives in a lower pressure zone than the front grille. The front grille will basically always have the highest pressure going into it so as long as that is sealed well enough you'll get plenty of flow through your all coolers in the front grille.

I haven't seen anyone mention surface area on coolers yet. The reason why the factory cooler is mediocre is because it's a low density 10 row. Most of the oil cooler upgrades on the market are a similar sized core but they're 25 rows. They have wayyy more surface area for heat transfer than the factory cooler does which is why they're so much more efficient.

 

A shroud would definitely help with efficiency. you want air kinda trapped so it uses the preferred exit, rather than going around the surface that needs cooling. this is why i'm experimenting on making a shroud for the rotor vents

 

You have pressure all around the core though, no pressure differential. Air does hit it, but its going to flow around the back of the core as well. Certainly the 2nd step if you need more cooling, shroud the front, then shroud the rear to the radiator.

 

I've got a B&M 70273 up front (to make room for brake duct inlets) and while I know it's no Setrab it does the job perfectly fine for my uses. The car does get warm during auto-x on 100+ degree days but unfortunately I don't get a temp readout on my stupid Innovate oil press/temp gauge just a color scale that's programmable. I just started hitting the cooler with some water while in the pits to help cool it down. If I ever start TTing I expect to have to make a duct for it but it would be very easy to form up and make it into an integral mount plus sealing it to the radiator wouldn't be a challenge, either. It's also on AN fittings that have lines snaked between radiator and the lower support with rubber/metal edge trim covering the sharp edge. If I ever upgrade it'll probably be to Austin's stacked unit for oil & PS.

 

Is your decision to relocate more for tire clearance?

 

I think most trans coolers have smaller fittings than engine oil coolers so they flow less..

 

You can get banjo's that have an AN fitting. The use a straight hose end.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...YaAuIMEALw_wcB

 

yeah I've seen these. just thought AN fittings are barb'd on the hose end as well so why add another

 

Those are pushlok fittings. Reuable "race" hose ends are not.

 

hmm not many google hits about hose leaks with AN fittings, but plenty on the flare/swivel end.