I bought one of IE pans, looks good, not installed yet. After looking at the price of RTV these days I bought one of the Felpro gaskets. It is made of rubberized fibrous gasket material and all holes line up. They do not offer the rubber gasket like they do for some chevy SB.

I was just wondering if anyone had tried this gasket and what their experience was.

FEL-PROOS30715

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...efvoa23g%3D%3D

Mitsuatb

 

I very specifically do not like rubber gaskets for oil pans because it creates a lot of cushion allowing the pan itself to dimple right around the bolt holes. And its not an accidentally over tightened thing, its just going to happen almost guaranteed to get the pan to seal.

100% I would only use high temp RTV. Sealing humvee oil pans was particularly tricky (they were always dimpled and normal GM crap quality). The method that worked best there was to spread a roughly even 1/8 thick layer of RTV, let it set till the skin isnt tacky (core is still flowing though), then reassemble.

 

A can of permatex right stuff is <$20 and it won't leak. That gasket is going to leak

 

I've not used one myself but I've seen people preach that they've had good success with getting their leaking Moroso pans to seal up with that gasket.

 

Many of the full rubber gaskets have metal inserts to limit compression of the gasket and the dimple issue you rightly point out. But silicone is soft rubber and has no stops. I could see it going either way. I appreciate the reply's. Current plan is to add beads of silicone at the block to front cover seams and rear crank seal housing seams and straight gasket elsewhere. Still pondering not sure I should deviate from factory but would be a cleaner to use gasket and test fit for oil pickup would be easier. The Felpro is much better than cork and very firm kinda like no slip rubber stair treads. It is mostly fiber. The OEM pan that the IE pan is based on has gussets pressed between holes. This is not to hold silicone as some have said but to make the lip more rigid between holes. I don't know the answer, seems like a crap shoot but the factory silicone has held for 16 years. Also gasket is $9 and easier to clean up after.

 

while the $15 permatex black is a PITA, i agree its the best option. those bolts could stretch and/or gasket to adjust to compressed dimensions... just enough to cause a leak

 

Re-doing an oil pan does not appeal to me. I'd do it right the first time.
if there were a better way, someone would have found it by now.

 

You mean somebody like FelPro? Have you tried it? That was my question, peoples experience.

 

The gaskets always leak. I see it 1-2 times/month here at the shop. Permatex gray "the right stuff" is always the fix as long as the pan flange isn't too mucked up.

Even with a moroso pan (they ****ing suck to get sealed up). I learned from English Racing on those, you just have to use all the glue..

 

i quit reading when you mentioned the price of RTV as being a determining factor in attaching your $1800 oil pan to your several thousand dollar motor.

 

I can't remember what I used with my Racefab, but I always worry about removal with Right Stuff, particularly with a thin, bendable oil pan flange. It's great for intake manifold sealing though.

Is Threebond something anyone here recommends?

 

I had to use (house) framing ties to remove my oil pan earlier this year. it helps stretch the rtv so its easier to cut with a blade

 

I mean why deviate from the service manual. Spend a few bucks on mitsubond and move on!

 

Meathooker

It would of helped if you quit typing also.

Mitsuatb

 

I'm guilty of being aggressive and bending an oil pan flange. With my current pan I CAN'T risk bending so am overly cautious. It sucks that if you use something that seals well, you're also gonna have a really hard time getting it back off.