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I should probably get one of these but the thought of trimming it for my English Racing underdrive oil pump gear makes me squirm. Putting an angle grinder on a shiny new part like this.
Edit: Wait, or would I not need the underdrive gear on a 2.4 anymore?
You should still run the under drive gear. Spinning the pump slower puts less heat in the oil.
All you're doing is trimming the pan flange. Not a big deal.
I should probably get one of these but the thought of trimming it for my English Racing underdrive oil pump gear makes me squirm. Putting an angle grinder on a shiny new part like this.
Edit: Wait, or would I not need the underdrive gear on a 2.4 anymore?
You definitely can use the English Racing underdrive gear, but it's not required.
If you're revving to the moon then it's a good idea to have the underdrive, as it slows down the pump gears.
But if you're revving to 8000-8500rpm, it's not required.
If you want less heat pumped into your oil, then just use a thinner oil. You can use the adjustable oil pressure regulator to re-set the pressure to whatever you want.
If you want less heat pumped into your oil, then just use a thinner oil. You can use the adjustable oil pressure regulator to re-set the pressure to whatever you want.
Do these come preadjusted for factory oil pressure?
Do these come preadjusted for factory oil pressure?
I wish it was as simple as this!
The regulators are in a "safe ballpark", but ultimately you need to adjust it to get the pressure you want.
I've tested them with 5W30 to 20W60, and the pressure changes a lot.
So depending on your engine setup (balance shafts, squirters etc) and bearing clearances, this is one factor.
Then you've got oil weight and oil temps.
95psi @ 185ºF (oil thermostat temp) goes to about 80psi @ 248ºF, and this depends on your oil weight and oil pump condition also.
In the instructions I state that you need to have an oil pressure gauge, for these reasons above.
What is the advantage of the Tomei flapper doors (or whatever they are called) vs fabricated metal hinged doors like on Racefab?
It's just a different design philosophy.
You can install and remove the rubber flaps by hand, no tooling required.
If/when you install an oil pan onto an engine that's upside down, you dont need to worry about the metal hinges opening and overextending, then getting stuck in the open position.
The plates to hold the rubber flaps are laser cut, not fabricated and welded.
And they are well proven, they have been used in BMW factory engines (road cars) for over 20 years.
It's just a different design philosophy.
You can install and remove the rubber flaps by hand, no tooling required.
If/when you install an oil pan onto an engine that's upside down, you dont need to worry about the metal hinges opening and overextending, then getting stuck in the open position.
The plates to hold the rubber flaps are laser cut, not fabricated and welded.
And they are well proven, they have been used in BMW factory engines (road cars) for over 20 years.
Makes sense. i guess you also get more resistance to them randomly flapping open and shut under load. the rubber would be more consistant in its movement and probably only moves when pressure is applied where as the hinged gates have no pre tension at all and just flap about
Makes sense. i guess you also get more resistance to them randomly flapping open and shut under load. the rubber would be more consistant in its movement and probably only moves when pressure is applied where as the hinged gates have no pre tension at all and just flap about
I wish it was as simple as this!
The regulators are in a "safe ballpark", but ultimately you need to adjust it to get the pressure you want.
I've tested them with 5W30 to 20W60, and the pressure changes a lot.
So depending on your engine setup (balance shafts, squirters etc) and bearing clearances, this is one factor.
Then you've got oil weight and oil temps.
95psi @ 185ºF (oil thermostat temp) goes to about 80psi @ 248ºF, and this depends on your oil weight and oil pump condition also.
In the instructions I state that you need to have an oil pressure gauge, for these reasons above.
What's your recommended procedure for adjusting the regulator? Is it as simple as setting base oil pressure at a certain rpm, oil temp and weight?
Need to know how idiot-proof this is before purchasing
Makes sense. i guess you also get more resistance to them randomly flapping open and shut under load. the rubber would be more consistant in its movement and probably only moves when pressure is applied where as the hinged gates have no pre tension at all and just flap about
Don't overthink it Brad - there is oil in there and so they certainly dont flap about (like Kaj said).
Originally Posted by Spooled_IX
What's your recommended procedure for adjusting the regulator? Is it as simple as setting base oil pressure at a certain rpm, oil temp and weight? Need to know how idiot-proof this is before purchasing
I recommend getting to normal oil temp (15min driving), this will bring it to around 85ºC.
Then rev to 5500-7000rpm and check and set the oil pressure.
90-100psi when measuring on the oil filter housing.
80-90psi when measuring from the stock oil pressure switch position (mains gallery, back of the block under #4 cylinder).
Example of what temp does to oil here: Left side - oil pressure at oil filter housing. Right side - oil pressure at Mains Gallery. Using this example, the oil pressure at the Mains Gallery is ~85psi @ 80ºC. This is acceptable. But you'll need to check the pressure when you're pushing on the track when the oil temp is 120ºC. I wouldn't recommend less than 70psi at the oil filter housing at any temperature or weight oil. This was done with 5W30.
