Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Doesnt matter how you stack the washers, they are all loaded to fully flat at nominal torque. Proof strength of a high grade M10 is about 60kn (13500lbs). The thickest Belleville M10 washers on Mcmaster have a flat load of 650lbs. If they were stacked all in same direction, 3 would get you 1750lbs of flat load and if they were alternating it would be 650lbs but longer throw. IIRC, OEM is alternating right?

Monster4

That is correct:

Jaraxle

Monster4,
You are correct. That is why I took that picture so close to show the gap. You have to stack the two washers so that the markings are as shown in that diagram. That creates the space. That space is then pre-loaded with the torque + ROTATION degree procedure. This is extremely important. Shops mess it up. Turbos come loose.

Bee-Raddd

You need to use K nuts or preloaded nuts. Even then they should be re torqued constantly as they will back off. Unfortunately spring washers etc dont work as they get hot and go soft and lose their tension. Not sure if this would also apply to belleville washers. I have seen some locking tabs you can get for your nuts which would also possibly work. issue is if you lose even a little torque the exhaust gas will just cut a path and melt the gasket and then the bolts lose their tension.

I had the same issue till i went to V band.

alpinaturbo

iTrader: (5)

Brad, thanks for experienced feedback. What you do is unique here, and common problem to rest of us: while many Evo drivers discussing here now run AX - each run lasting under 1 minute, and others run Time Attack - 3 laps, for total time of under 6 minutes, you and many others actually run 25-30 minutes : and that is where the challenge really escalates.


I agree that V-Band is one sure way to keep the manifold to turbo joint.

What about manifold to head. What do you do to maintain the manifold seal reliable?
What studs, what nuts, what washers, anything special for lubrication to make it easier to remove?

Thank you

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

They seem to come loose if torqued to procedure, under tightened, over tightened, whatever. Best action is to consistently check them. Before/after a track day, every few thousand miles (every oil change maybe) for a daily driver, etc.

Next one I do, I want to try nordlock washers instead of the bellville washers.

kikiturbo

One thing to check on non OE manifolds and down pipes is the "flatness" of the part under the nut... if this is not perpendicular to stud and smooth, it will cause nuts/bolts to loosen.. . if it does not look flat, a two piece conical washer is an easy fix

Jaraxle

Just to clear this up for someone reading casually. It DOES matter how they are stacked in this application because the "longer throw" is required to handle the massive temperature (and thus thermal expansion) swings that the turbine housing experiences. The torque procedure specified in the manual is to pre-load these correctly. Honestly since replacing all the hardware and doing the procedure correctly I haven't had ANY of them back out despite numerous track events.

Bee-Raddd

I cant say ive really had any issues with the engine side nuts coming loose. I used the factory nuts for ages and just recently upgraded to some K nut style head nuts,

As for lubrication anything on the hot side i use graphite anti seize on them.


Another good tip is to make up some stays which go from the turbo housing back up to the head and block to triangulate the weight and help to hold the weight. next step for me is to make a hanger up off the bottom of the block which goes around the exhaust and supports the weight of the front part of the exhaust and turbo. Needs to attach to the engine so that it allows the exhaust to move with the engine

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

So GTA RA was fun. Not a lot of people, car down on power with the stupid p016 codes flapping away from cams. Annnnnd both the engine side manifold bolts backed out and went bye bye in one session. This was WITH Nordlock washers. Nth time (1st on this car) that bell's nor Nord's held. The two firewall side bolts held firm though, most likely because you can get enough muscle on those and not these other two. So I've proven to myself yet again that the only thing that holds is safety wire. I'm half tempted to ditch the cast manifold and go tube JUST to get the space needed to install it right lol.