local Pittsburgh Meet
stock turbo stock top end...forged weisco pistons forged eagle rods arp main studs k&n cold air invidia turbo outlet with turbo back cat delete n1 exhaust turbo xs bov recir(which over boost so should be changed) ams complete fuel kit tuned on 93 pump gas at 24psi and apexi afc walbro fuel pump thats right off my head?!
Ditch that K&N, first thing. I had major problems in the cold due to that intake, amongst other problems.
stock turbo stock top end...forged weisco pistons forged eagle rods arp main studs k&n cold air invidia turbo outlet with turbo back cat delete n1 exhaust turbo xs bov recir(which over boost so should be changed) ams complete fuel kit tuned on 93 pump gas at 24psi and apexi afc walbro fuel pump thats right off my head?!
as mine was going i was still getting a good voltage reading from my gauge but start up was a little sluggish. when the car turned over it would idle like i had 282's in it until the engine warmed up, then everything would smooth out. just a thought...
Thanks guys.
Mondo, I honestly wouldn't be opposed to oem pads if they were much cheaper. I could make due, however even a set of 4 oem pads is close to the cost of a good aftermarket set. I plan on trap speeds around 130 or so like Jason reports. While most drag strips have a nice long shut down, prp has like a 20 stretch of shut down and then you're driving through the woods (only slight exaggeration).
Saber,
if u figure it out let me know
jay,
which ebc pads u using on the delly?
if I go with a new turd-bo around tax time it will probably be 6262. But u know ull be helping me tune the box. 700 or bust
Mondo, I honestly wouldn't be opposed to oem pads if they were much cheaper. I could make due, however even a set of 4 oem pads is close to the cost of a good aftermarket set. I plan on trap speeds around 130 or so like Jason reports. While most drag strips have a nice long shut down, prp has like a 20 stretch of shut down and then you're driving through the woods (only slight exaggeration).
Saber,
if u figure it out let me know
jay,
which ebc pads u using on the delly?
if I go with a new turd-bo around tax time it will probably be 6262. But u know ull be helping me tune the box. 700 or bust
300hp and 300 ft lb and battery is about a yr old...on my afc it reads 13.8 volts or so but i have another battery i can try! thanks everyone and sorry for the interruption on the other fellas ?'s earlier
kuzma54,
There is an adjustment screw its called the "BISS" there is a procedure to adjust it in the manual and you need evoscan to activate SAS actuator. You just don't turn the screw as some seem to suggest. I have found a lot of idle / stalling issues are fixed when you properly set the BISS.
Also as everyone else has said ditch the k&n intake
Last edited by travman; Jan 4, 2010 at 07:54 AM.
yeah that's it - just turn the screw......don't worry about following the procedures for proper BISS adjustment, just turn the screw
kuzma54,
There is an adjustment screw its called the "BISS" there is a procedure to adjust it in the manual and you need evoscan to activate SAS actuator. You just don't turn the screw as some seem to suggest. I have found a lot of idle / stalling issues are fixed when you properly set the BISS.
Also as everyone else has said ditch the k&n intake
kuzma54,
There is an adjustment screw its called the "BISS" there is a procedure to adjust it in the manual and you need evoscan to activate SAS actuator. You just don't turn the screw as some seem to suggest. I have found a lot of idle / stalling issues are fixed when you properly set the BISS.
Also as everyone else has said ditch the k&n intake
I'm pretty sure it was the Hawk HPS Street pads. http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=S
I use the HPS street pads on Cryo-treated Power Slot rotors all around. Some SS brake lines and they have worked REALLY well for me. No problems whatsoever. 0 noise, very low dust, and have a great bite.
basically:
- Warm the car up, turn off all electrical items - stereo, lights, dome light, etc.
- Activate the SAS actuator
- Watch the tach - then adjust the screw while keeping it in SAS mode until the tack reads 800 rpms +/- 50 rpms.
- De-activate SAS mode
The car may idle high or low at first depending on how far off it was - you usually have to drive the car for a while so the ecu can re-learn. Once everything is complete the car should idle very very close to the target idle setting in the ecu.
Last edited by travman; Jan 4, 2010 at 08:19 AM.
even though that's low on the probability list, it's worth a shot because i might save you some time/money.
