local Pittsburgh Meet
I would disconnect it from the ecu harness and sell it....you do not need it anymore. Is there a jumper harness or did he splice it into the main harness?
it is actually spliced in...It already runs better just from getting rid of that P.O.S. exhaust that was on there ....I opened it up on the highway yesterday and it felt so much better
i spent years modding my civic..i never went the route of the "cheapest mod" I always bought the best stuff for the car...never had any issues with it either..even the motor swap..stil runs strong with 80,000 miles since the swap
Well get the stock maf pipe and buschur filter and the thing will run even better.... plus I will take a look at the ecu, I hope its not molested (we will soon find out).
Your almost there....just have to get the last few "crap" parts off the car (Typhoon, EIDS) and you will have a good running evo.
Least going through this you will appreciate the car more knowing you made it run better than the previous owner could ever dream of.
Anybody here who can give me Clutch advice? Here is my question:
My clutch is slipping around 5k-6k rpms. very mushy, sometimes is hard to get into gear without a very small crunch. Doesnt engage until pedal is 3/4- full way out.
I have the ACT 2900 It has around 10,000mi on it.
What can I get away with replacing? I would like to save money and just replace what I need. You can pm me your thoughts if you don't want to reply on here. Thanks for your time!
SJ
My clutch is slipping around 5k-6k rpms. very mushy, sometimes is hard to get into gear without a very small crunch. Doesnt engage until pedal is 3/4- full way out.
I have the ACT 2900 It has around 10,000mi on it.
What can I get away with replacing? I would like to save money and just replace what I need. You can pm me your thoughts if you don't want to reply on here. Thanks for your time!
SJ
Un-splice it and get rid of that thing......you should be able to sell it, just make sure you say "this will enable you to run VTA" and someone will go whoopie! and buy it.
Well get the stock maf pipe and buschur filter and the thing will run even better.... plus I will take a look at the ecu, I hope its not molested (we will soon find out).
Well get the stock maf pipe and buschur filter and the thing will run even better.... plus I will take a look at the ecu, I hope its not molested (we will soon find out).
They probably used the china stacons at autozone to splice it in too and a 99 cent crimper from dollar general. Do it right and get somebody who can solder good undo it all and resolder the connections with heatshrink. Do it right or pay, that thing is tapped into your airflow signal lines. Thats kinda like the MAP lines on your honda. If you get a bad connection on your airflow lines your set up to start doing melty melt on your pistons. They shouldn't even be selling those things, I wouldn't even tune a car with one of those on a car, even when working correctly its dicking with your airflow signal, that is NOT COOL!
Anybody here who can give me Clutch advice? Here is my question:
My clutch is slipping around 5k-6k rpms. very mushy, sometimes is hard to get into gear without a very small crunch. Doesnt engage until pedal is 3/4- full way out.
I have the ACT 2900 It has around 10,000mi on it.
What can I get away with replacing? I would like to save money and just replace what I need. You can pm me your thoughts if you don't want to reply on here. Thanks for your time!
SJ
My clutch is slipping around 5k-6k rpms. very mushy, sometimes is hard to get into gear without a very small crunch. Doesnt engage until pedal is 3/4- full way out.
I have the ACT 2900 It has around 10,000mi on it.
What can I get away with replacing? I would like to save money and just replace what I need. You can pm me your thoughts if you don't want to reply on here. Thanks for your time!
SJ
what exactley do you mean 'what can you get away with replacing'?
you're gonna need the friction disk obviously, and most likely a new pressure plate too (i'm almost positive that they need to replaced in tandem). honestly, you're going to pay them same for install no matter what. my advice, get a new clutch kit and flywheel. the flywheel you have in there will most likely need resurfaced at least, and for a bit more, you can get a brand new lighter flywheel.
also, it would suck to get in there, and find out the flywheel is warped or somthing, and needs to be replaced, but you didn't get one. ya know?
best piece of advice i can offer you is to give baierl a call about the install.
Well, I'm pretty much lost in frustration. I finally got my ECU back today from Jestr Tuning and something is terribly wrong. I already wrote Jestr an email, but i'd like to get your opinions on it. Travman, I know you are the local tuning guru around here and if it would be at all possible, I wanted to know if you could help me log my car and email it to Jestr. I'll PM you my number and if you could call me so we could set up a time (hell, it could be tomorrow) and compensation agreement, that would be greatly appreciated. Here is the part of the email that I sent to Jestr explaining what went wrong:
"I let the car warm up from standing still (the car's battery has been disconnected for a few days). I then drove the car very gently for about 5 mins to let it warm up some more. I did some short pulls from third gear, from about 3000-5000 rpm. Power seemed more linear, but at the same time less powerful. I didnt know if it was my imagination or not. I then eventually came to a stop and decided to go WOT. I didn't launch or anything, but at about 5800-6200 rpm, I hit fuel cut. I was immediately concerned. I did some more third gear pulls going up to about 6000 rpm and it just didnt seem like it was pulling as hard or revving as fast. I got onto a faster road and went WOT in third one more time. I hit fuel cut again around 6500 rpm and it then revved to almost 8000rpm - really wierd stuff. I don't know what to say, but I'm really concerned. I can't exactly afford to keep shipping you my ECU, so I suppose i'm going to have to see if anyone around here can help me log and I could email you the file. Please, let me know what you think I should do or what you think may be the problem. Everyone I know that knows of your tunes has said they are very, very good - so i'm guessing there has to be some other underlying issue here. I just want to get this fixed and be able to enjoy my car again."
I'm in desperate need of some more help here guys - thanks for heads up on the longer bolts/washers trick for the stabalizer bar clearing the downpipe (at least that is one thing that worked).
"I let the car warm up from standing still (the car's battery has been disconnected for a few days). I then drove the car very gently for about 5 mins to let it warm up some more. I did some short pulls from third gear, from about 3000-5000 rpm. Power seemed more linear, but at the same time less powerful. I didnt know if it was my imagination or not. I then eventually came to a stop and decided to go WOT. I didn't launch or anything, but at about 5800-6200 rpm, I hit fuel cut. I was immediately concerned. I did some more third gear pulls going up to about 6000 rpm and it just didnt seem like it was pulling as hard or revving as fast. I got onto a faster road and went WOT in third one more time. I hit fuel cut again around 6500 rpm and it then revved to almost 8000rpm - really wierd stuff. I don't know what to say, but I'm really concerned. I can't exactly afford to keep shipping you my ECU, so I suppose i'm going to have to see if anyone around here can help me log and I could email you the file. Please, let me know what you think I should do or what you think may be the problem. Everyone I know that knows of your tunes has said they are very, very good - so i'm guessing there has to be some other underlying issue here. I just want to get this fixed and be able to enjoy my car again."
I'm in desperate need of some more help here guys - thanks for heads up on the longer bolts/washers trick for the stabalizer bar clearing the downpipe (at least that is one thing that worked).
the one thing i noticed after getting my car tuned, is that it didn't feel as brutal with the acceleration. so it is a little confusing at first, because it feels so smooth it almost feels slower.
that is usually the result of a good bit more timing down low before the turbo is totally spooled. the difference is even more pronounced in VIII's because of how hard the power comes on when the turbo spools.
i rode around in dave's VIII a little today, and it feels like it pulls alot harder than mine, but side by side i am as fast as he is. what i am getting at here, is that the butt dyno is easily fooled by smoother power delivery.
as far as the fuel cut goes, that is a strange one. did you happen to get a look at your boost gauge while it was happening? generally speaking a flash will take care of any fuel cut issues.
don't bother sending him back your whole ecu. just tell him to email you new rom, and get it flashed in by someone with a tactrix cable. i'd be more than willing to help you flash you rom if need be.
that is usually the result of a good bit more timing down low before the turbo is totally spooled. the difference is even more pronounced in VIII's because of how hard the power comes on when the turbo spools.
i rode around in dave's VIII a little today, and it feels like it pulls alot harder than mine, but side by side i am as fast as he is. what i am getting at here, is that the butt dyno is easily fooled by smoother power delivery.
as far as the fuel cut goes, that is a strange one. did you happen to get a look at your boost gauge while it was happening? generally speaking a flash will take care of any fuel cut issues.
don't bother sending him back your whole ecu. just tell him to email you new rom, and get it flashed in by someone with a tactrix cable. i'd be more than willing to help you flash you rom if need be.
Well, I'm pretty much lost in frustration. I finally got my ECU back today from Jestr Tuning and something is terribly wrong. I already wrote Jestr an email, but i'd like to get your opinions on it. Travman, I know you are the local tuning guru around here and if it would be at all possible, I wanted to know if you could help me log my car and email it to Jestr. I'll PM you my number and if you could call me so we could set up a time (hell, it could be tomorrow) and compensation agreement, that would be greatly appreciated. Here is the part of the email that I sent to Jestr explaining what went wrong:
"I let the car warm up from standing still (the car's battery has been disconnected for a few days). I then drove the car very gently for about 5 mins to let it warm up some more. I did some short pulls from third gear, from about 3000-5000 rpm. Power seemed more linear, but at the same time less powerful. I didnt know if it was my imagination or not. I then eventually came to a stop and decided to go WOT. I didn't launch or anything, but at about 5800-6200 rpm, I hit fuel cut. I was immediately concerned. I did some more third gear pulls going up to about 6000 rpm and it just didnt seem like it was pulling as hard or revving as fast. I got onto a faster road and went WOT in third one more time. I hit fuel cut again around 6500 rpm and it then revved to almost 8000rpm - really wierd stuff. I don't know what to say, but I'm really concerned. I can't exactly afford to keep shipping you my ECU, so I suppose i'm going to have to see if anyone around here can help me log and I could email you the file. Please, let me know what you think I should do or what you think may be the problem. Everyone I know that knows of your tunes has said they are very, very good - so i'm guessing there has to be some other underlying issue here. I just want to get this fixed and be able to enjoy my car again."
I'm in desperate need of some more help here guys - thanks for heads up on the longer bolts/washers trick for the stabalizer bar clearing the downpipe (at least that is one thing that worked).
"I let the car warm up from standing still (the car's battery has been disconnected for a few days). I then drove the car very gently for about 5 mins to let it warm up some more. I did some short pulls from third gear, from about 3000-5000 rpm. Power seemed more linear, but at the same time less powerful. I didnt know if it was my imagination or not. I then eventually came to a stop and decided to go WOT. I didn't launch or anything, but at about 5800-6200 rpm, I hit fuel cut. I was immediately concerned. I did some more third gear pulls going up to about 6000 rpm and it just didnt seem like it was pulling as hard or revving as fast. I got onto a faster road and went WOT in third one more time. I hit fuel cut again around 6500 rpm and it then revved to almost 8000rpm - really wierd stuff. I don't know what to say, but I'm really concerned. I can't exactly afford to keep shipping you my ECU, so I suppose i'm going to have to see if anyone around here can help me log and I could email you the file. Please, let me know what you think I should do or what you think may be the problem. Everyone I know that knows of your tunes has said they are very, very good - so i'm guessing there has to be some other underlying issue here. I just want to get this fixed and be able to enjoy my car again."
I'm in desperate need of some more help here guys - thanks for heads up on the longer bolts/washers trick for the stabalizer bar clearing the downpipe (at least that is one thing that worked).
If you're in a pinch I can pull your map for you this afternoon, look for any obvious problems and send it onto jestr.
Or we can meet for lunch somewhere on the south side if you're willing to drive the car that far.
Yeah i will solder when the weather warms up. I did see it and they did do a crappy job. Ill be glad when all of the stuff is fixed on this car.
Ugh, spliced in.
They probably used the china stacons at autozone to splice it in too and a 99 cent crimper from dollar general. Do it right and get somebody who can solder good undo it all and resolder the connections with heatshrink. Do it right or pay, that thing is tapped into your airflow signal lines. Thats kinda like the MAP lines on your honda. If you get a bad connection on your airflow lines your set up to start doing melty melt on your pistons. They shouldn't even be selling those things, I wouldn't even tune a car with one of those on a car, even when working correctly its dicking with your airflow signal, that is NOT COOL!
They probably used the china stacons at autozone to splice it in too and a 99 cent crimper from dollar general. Do it right and get somebody who can solder good undo it all and resolder the connections with heatshrink. Do it right or pay, that thing is tapped into your airflow signal lines. Thats kinda like the MAP lines on your honda. If you get a bad connection on your airflow lines your set up to start doing melty melt on your pistons. They shouldn't even be selling those things, I wouldn't even tune a car with one of those on a car, even when working correctly its dicking with your airflow signal, that is NOT COOL!
Hey guys I posted this before with some interest...I'm gonna post again.
I have the following parts for sale:
Muse Motorsports Ported and recasted Manifold
Buschur Stainless steel heat shield
Ebay 02 housing (the good one)
All for 275 and I will meet up with anyone
around the area.
Any takers?
Mike
I have the following parts for sale:
Muse Motorsports Ported and recasted Manifold
Buschur Stainless steel heat shield
Ebay 02 housing (the good one)
All for 275 and I will meet up with anyone
around the area.
Any takers?
Mike
Hey guys I posted this before with some interest...I'm gonna post again.
I have the following parts for sale:
Muse Motorsports Ported and recasted Manifold
Buschur Stainless steel heat shield
Ebay 02 housing (the good one)
All for 275 and I will meet up with anyone
around the area.
Any takers?
Mike
I have the following parts for sale:
Muse Motorsports Ported and recasted Manifold
Buschur Stainless steel heat shield
Ebay 02 housing (the good one)
All for 275 and I will meet up with anyone
around the area.
Any takers?
Mike


