Last event of the year I will most definitely be there. No reason to wait until next spring, won't know really if I'll even still be on the East coast at that point (sad thought).

Side note too, over the winter I would like to look into getting brake work, suspension and bushings replaced. Putting aside the whole going fast bit and trying to get this car better set up for the avenue I'm using it in.

I know this is crazy open ended and really comes down to personal preference but I'm open to hear your experiences with the products you guys have concerning rear sway, rotors, pads, brake lines and fluids, cooling ducts, bushings, roll center correction kits etc... Gotta take it one step at a time and would like to move in the right direction for the first set of purchases. On a little budget too, jobless and in school makes for a poor fool.

Mike, would love to have slicks but I'm not about to try and step up with the big boys yet. Don't even wanna know the hole those put in your pockets...

 

I think rotors aren't as big a deal as the pads you chose. I just ordered a full set of rotorpros for $220 shipped. I plan on running the Ferodo DS2500 on my car for the front, Hawks on the rear. I plan on making sway bars my next big purchase as I don't want to lower the car. Looking at that pics of my car and Marc's back-to-back makes me realize that they are a must. I believe RobiSpec is what a lot of guys are running...

Chu, Marc, what brand SB's are you guys using?

 

Here are my suggestions:

Do the whilteline roll center correction kit. it will put your roll center and COG back in line with each other after lowering the car.
While the front control arms are out do the perrin PSRS (positive steering response system) which will add between 1-1.5* caster. that increase in caster will increase your camber when the wheel is turned. Carefully with this though as it pushes the front wheels forward slightly. If the overall diameter of your wheels/tires are larger then stock it will rub on the fender liners.
Also look into some poly bushings. I originally had the energy suspension stuff on my car but after the accident I installed all whiteline bushings. I can't feel a difference between the two really, but whiteline seems to have excellent customer support.
Since my subframe was out I added a whiteline FSB to complement the Perrin RSB.

Obviously you'll want a decent alignment after installing all those parts.

I'm not a fan of the DS2500 for AX, they are a good "all around" pad that will get you by for DD, AX & HPDE, but IMO they require too much heat to get that initial bite you need when braking HARD before that first corner. I would suggest carbotech XP-10 instead. Thats what I run on the Z06 and that is what I will be putting on the EVO onces these DS2500 are shot. The initial bite on the XP-10's are un-freaking-real, no heat needed, just step on the pedal and the car does a nose dive. rotors, & lines can remain stock, unless you want to do an HPDE with us next year, then do the SS lines and flush the system with Motul RBF 600.

Thats pretty much everything I have done.

 

I'm running DBA 4000s in the front and Power Slots in the rear with Girodisc pads, not the best pad choice but I had them laying around. For brakes, it really depend on your budget. If the budget is small, RotorPros w/ an aggressive pad combo is the way to go. Good fluids and stainless lines are a biggy in my opinion for track days! I've got the Techanfits and ATE Super Blue...I can pick both these up locally for anyone who needs them. I have been thinking of the RB ET 500 or the Carbotechs that Marc has been parising. Ferrodos are great, but the compound is soft so the pads dont last very long, especially with me daily driving. Unless you plan on hitting the circuit, no need for brake ducting in autox.

As for suspension, I am on Bilsteins/Works Ride springs and Robispec 27mm rear sway. The sway bar made a huge difference in handling, and worth every penny. Those of you running coilovers, I dont think a larger sway bar is as necessary. Play with the stiffness settings and see where that takes you first, way to save some money I guess. My goal now are to replace the necessary bushings (prolly get the Energy Suspension kit and use Works to fill in the rest), and also do the driveshaft and diff carrier bushings! Camber plates are the next big purchases for me. I have also read up on the Perrin PSSR and the Whiteline RCA kits.

 

Thanks Petey. I'm running a perrin off the shelf tune for stage 2. I wouldn't be able to stand driving on the stock tune at all.

btw, I am still shopping for a tuner

i'm going to rt next week. let's see if they can figure out and possibly fix what we were discussing.

 

okay so halloween is always a good time in college. ithaca ny is known for some pretty intense hippies. so i decided it mite be a good idea to rock out in my mike vick jersey today and tonight. apparently people get upset when you acknowledge that your back up QB kills dogs. who knew? haha

 

I have a Perrin sway bar that I am no longer using, I went back to stock bar. PM me if you are interested, I will make very reasonable.

As far as what Mark is saying, it is illegal for BSP to do roll center correction. I am not sure about the Perrin steering response, but I think that is illegal for BSP too. As far as brakes, if you are on a budget just get the cheapest rotors you can find. Hawk HPS, the carbotech's Mark is talking about would be great for Autox. The stainless lines are not a necessity, but if you want them I have the Stop Tech's which are good.

My opinion is a BSP Evo needs R compounds and a stiffer spring rate than stock to be competitive. All the power mods are not as important as the suspension when it comes to Autox. A good coilover set up with a proper alignment will make a huge difference in Autox. Probably the best $ spent would be the Evolution school, that comes around twice a year. That will help the most with Autox and all the other things can follow, but no one ever goes about it like that including myself.

 

Mike is right, alot of the mods I have listed aren't really BSP legal, thats why I'm running in SM next year. :P I don't think anyone cares locally, though, but I'm sure if we ever did a national event it wouldn't go over too well.

The driver mod (evo school), sticky tires, a well setup suspension are probably the three BEST mods you can do. So far I've got a good suspesion, still working on the other two...

 

I'm going to do the driving schools next year. Had planned for it this year, but something came up and didn't get to go. I want to focus on driving more than mods next year, but we'll see. THe mod bug bites me here and there!

 

Well Mike, concerning BSP the only reason I'm running there is cuz the rest of the guys are in that class. I'm already illegal in BSP with the cams so next year will be putting me up in SM along with me starting to take it a little more seriously in setting the car up per the class. As for exactly what the limitations in that class are right now, no clue but then again that's all for next year.

I've already got KW V3's in the car with hyperco springs in the front, and the initial KW front springs in the rear. Puts it at 8k/9k front to rear. I haven't played with their adjustability since I've had them on and they're sitting at the mid settings all around. My brakes are bone stock at the moment. Stock pads, stock rotors, slotted whatever, stock fluid you name it the factory put it there. Other suspensions pieces most likely a must are camber plates (Petey I know you're looking forward to those again soon!) and some good ol fashion fender rolling to widen up my stance a bit. I really want this car to be a track prep car that just happens to see daily use, without going too far over the edge. Again this will most likely be a slow process but hey I can dream at the moment

Really I want to focus on bushings, rear sway, pads and the steering and roll correction kits. I know I've quite a bit of investigating and reading to do as far as SCCA rules along with getting up to speed with the market on these types of products. Thanks guys for your input on what you've got experience with, I'm sure this won't be the last round of questioning.

Marc, I'm def looking to be present at some HPDE events, or any other track events at that matter in the coming years. Just didn't want to jump in over my head the first time around with the car having all this work done practically overnight on it. But I am most definitely looking forward to making motorsports a larger presence in my life. Feel like I'm learning quickly on my own here and hopefully I can only further that with some real guidance via schools and track days.

 

I would do a Stop tech big brake it, witeline roll center and bump steer, and perrin PSRS, upper pillowball mounts.

Big brake it may be drastic but I can give you a hell of a deal and when you compare with DBA rotors and pads it's not so painfull anymore..
And by hell of a deal I mean hell of a deal


Other then that, everything I mentioned above minus BBK with DBA rotors and pads of choice and some R compound grabbers

 

Why a big brake kit when he is just getting started and on a budget? A good pad, inexpensive replacement rotors (stock size) and some new fluid would do wonders (he could even cut the rotors that are on car, but cheap replacements are a better option). If this is a track car, get a pad and fluid that is appropriate for what you are doing. Meaning if you are doing track days, you are going to fry a stock set of pads, you need a pad that can handle the temps, that goes for your brake fluid too. I personally have used my Ferrodo DS2500 for a few track days at Pocono and Beaver Run, probably have 10000 miles on street and 3 autox seasons with plenty of life in pads left. The 2500's are OK for track, the 3500 are more of a track opad but can't be used on the street. I went with the 2500's because they could be used for multiple things.

I think on a budget I would go this route with the brakes, but that is just my personal opinion.

 

Looks like we're all moving to SM next year!

 

If you guys decide to get serious with Autox and start traveling, SM is probably not a good class. If you really want to be in SM, hope you have got the $ to prep your cars. BSP is less car prep and less $ in the long run. If you are competing just locally it does not matter. SM class when traveling is no joke, just so you guys know. Actually BSP is no joke too, I get my *** handed to me when I travel, these guys are on a whole different level compared to local competition.

 

IMO, Big Brake Kit = Big Waste of Money, on these cars atleast. Good pads can go a LONG way on the stock setup. Def. more stopping power then the Z1's can hold w/o ABS kicking in.


BTW, guys I found some more pics of Sunday's event on the sccaforums, have a look:

http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z...afilter=images

looks like next year SM will be the new BSP I can't wait!