Philadelphia's Classiest Drunkards
wow josh, i hope they dont, i havent used it yet so if they void it ill be demanding a check for the 3k for the warranty. Marc yea i bought it like that so hopefully that will yield no issues
Josh, question for you (or I guess anyone else who is in the know). what are your thoughts about re-torquing headstuds?
When I installed them on other cars I did it differently than when we did it on my EVO. Previously I would do 30ft, back it off, 60ft, back it off then a final tq of 90#. Then, after a few heat cycles you open it up again and re-torque to 90. With the EVO we just put the studs in and cranked them down to 90 with no cycling. I don't have any signs of seeping or anything like that, so I don't want to break something that isn't already broken, but I'm still curious cause it seems almost too easy.
When I installed them on other cars I did it differently than when we did it on my EVO. Previously I would do 30ft, back it off, 60ft, back it off then a final tq of 90#. Then, after a few heat cycles you open it up again and re-torque to 90. With the EVO we just put the studs in and cranked them down to 90 with no cycling. I don't have any signs of seeping or anything like that, so I don't want to break something that isn't already broken, but I'm still curious cause it seems almost too easy.
http://www.phillyscca.com/forum/view...php?f=8&t=6669
Last edited by chu; Mar 2, 2011 at 08:54 AM.
here is the one and only video from Atco on Sunday. Thanks to Carson's boy for recording it for me on my crappy photo camera.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9g4Q51_eRE
Tim i can add or remove your info, I didn't wanna have it all out there with you going to the dealership for work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9g4Q51_eRE
Tim i can add or remove your info, I didn't wanna have it all out there with you going to the dealership for work.
I have been putting mine in medium stiffness in front, and going full soft in the rear. Is that right?
I re-torque them out of habit after 500 miles. They go through heat cycling which can loosen them a few lb ft. That's what I was always told to do anyway.
I torqued mine to 110 lb ft in even steps from 30-60-90 then a final torque at 110. That's just my way of doing it on studs that have been used. New studs are 85-90 lb ft.
I torqued mine to 110 lb ft in even steps from 30-60-90 then a final torque at 110. That's just my way of doing it on studs that have been used. New studs are 85-90 lb ft.
Josh, question for you (or I guess anyone else who is in the know). what are your thoughts about re-torquing headstuds?
When I installed them on other cars I did it differently than when we did it on my EVO. Previously I would do 30ft, back it off, 60ft, back it off then a final tq of 90#. Then, after a few heat cycles you open it up again and re-torque to 90. With the EVO we just put the studs in and cranked them down to 90 with no cycling. I don't have any signs of seeping or anything like that, so I don't want to break something that isn't already broken, but I'm still curious cause it seems almost too easy.
When I installed them on other cars I did it differently than when we did it on my EVO. Previously I would do 30ft, back it off, 60ft, back it off then a final tq of 90#. Then, after a few heat cycles you open it up again and re-torque to 90. With the EVO we just put the studs in and cranked them down to 90 with no cycling. I don't have any signs of seeping or anything like that, so I don't want to break something that isn't already broken, but I'm still curious cause it seems almost too easy.
I re-torque them out of habit after 500 miles. They go through heat cycling which can loosen them a few lb ft. That's what I was always told to do anyway.
I torqued mine to 110 lb ft in even steps from 30-60-90 then a final torque at 110. That's just my way of doing it on studs that have been used. New studs are 85-90 lb ft.
I torqued mine to 110 lb ft in even steps from 30-60-90 then a final torque at 110. That's just my way of doing it on studs that have been used. New studs are 85-90 lb ft.
That's a smooth launch, eventhough it only pulled a 1.8. I do have a question about your coils. Do you change the stiffness settings at all for drag racing? Just wondering if it will hook better off the line?
I have been putting mine in medium stiffness in front, and going full soft in the rear. Is that right?
I have been putting mine in medium stiffness in front, and going full soft in the rear. Is that right?
IN hindsight I probably should have lined up out of the grove instead of in it, traction might have been better. Thats part of the being rusty part.More to your point though, I didn't adjust anything on my suspension. I have my rear compression a few clicks softer than I usually run at the track, but I don't even feel the difference from the drivers seat.
I re-torque them out of habit after 500 miles. They go through heat cycling which can loosen them a few lb ft. That's what I was always told to do anyway.
I torqued mine to 110 lb ft in even steps from 30-60-90 then a final torque at 110. That's just my way of doing it on studs that have been used. New studs are 85-90 lb ft.
I torqued mine to 110 lb ft in even steps from 30-60-90 then a final torque at 110. That's just my way of doing it on studs that have been used. New studs are 85-90 lb ft.
good question.