Brah, I already said I was bringing Star Specs just in case, not like I don't have a truck to haul them with 60 gallons of corn.
Sorry Chu, I meant 19 not 22. I will match the 1:14 if that is street tire times, that is if the RA1's are not stones. RA1's do last a long time, people daily drive them and get like 5000 miles. From my memory, I have done an autox on them once or twice, never ran them on track, road test my car quite a few times on them, only a few 100 miles on them. So they are good except for their age, they are pretty old. So we shall see.

So Marc, you really just slam that ish down, no rev match? Has it messed up tranny in any way doing that? Seriously answer question...

 

^ we can swap tires. i'll run your RA1 and you run my NT05, so you dont have any excuse about your tires being rock hard.

 

NO excuse, just saying what age tires are, these are facts son


I googled rev matching Evo 8 and was brought to this forum. Basically it just saves wear and tear on synchros, not absolutely necessary but a good idea. It seems to be incorporated with heel toe technique. I will just see how it goes, after long straights I know I also rev matched, but quick turns where I needed to shift quickly I blow it off. I have upshifted to 3rd autoxing and had to bring it back into 2nd with no time to play, I just slap it in there.

Here is a little snippet of what I just read:

This is a nice explanation from the Car Forums

Double Clutching (the easy way)
In another thread, several people expressed a desire to learn how to double clutch. I found this article which gives a good account on how to do it properly. The main thing to remember is you car is always talking to you, so learn to listen. You need to learn what rpm generates what speed in each gear. Tach's are great for this, but engine sound is a much better method. You don't always have time look at the tack. This procedure needs to be done quickly and SMOOTHLY. So turn off the boom-box and go have some fun.

I was afraid to post the link, so this is a C&P. I have included the authors name for credit.

John

The following is a beginner's approach to learning how to double - clutch. This technique allows downshifts from higher speeds without any synchroniser wear. This is VERY important if you ever want to drive really quickly and keep your transmission intact for extended periods!

The Easy Way to Double-Clutch
By Jeff Krause.

Double-clutching is the proper way to downshift at speed without placing excessive wear on the transmission's synchronizers. This allows you to select a much lower gear without the tell-tale lurch you normally get when the clutch is let out after downshifting.

When downshifting my BMW M5 from 4th gear to 2nd at 50 mph, I need to raise the engine speed from 2200 rpm to 5000. To prevent excessive synchroniser wear, the clutch is depressed and the shifter is moved to neutral. The clutch is then released, and the gas is depressed to bring the engine speed up to where it needs to be for the lower gear. The clutch is then depressed again and the shift lever moved into the lower gear. When the clutch is released the second time, the engine is already turning the proper speed . While this sounds complicated, it's easier done than said, and only takes about a second.

To better understand how the process works, a little background on transmission fundamentals will help.

A typical transmisson has two shafts, one connected to the engine through the clutch, and one connected to the rear wheels. There are usually four to six sets of gears on these shafts and they are selected with the gearshift lever inside the car. When changing gears, the clutch is depressed to disconnect the engine from the transmission so there isn't any stress on the moving parts. Since the output shaft is permanently connected to the rear wheels, the only way to match the speed of the two shafts is to use the throttle to adjust engine speed.

Once the engine is turning the right rpm, both shafts will be turning the same speed, and the gear lever will fall into gear WITHOUT using the clutch! (Although most of the time you are shifting too fast to be that accurate)

EXCERCISES

1) With the car idling in neutral, slowly step on the gas until the engine is turning 3500 rpm. Do it again bringing the rpm's up more and more quickly until you can give the pedal a quick stab and have the revs stop where you want . As you shorten the time allowed to match revs, you will notice it takes more throttle. In fast driving, you will be shifting so fast 4 will take full thottle! Now try matching revs at 4000 rpm.

2) Find a deserted road, and maintain 40 mph in 4th gear. Now shift into 3rd, and see how many rpm's the engine speed increased. At this speed, the difference won't be very much - maybe only a few hundred rpm. Go back into 4th gear. This time put the clutch in, push the lever to neutral and let the clutch back out. You are now coasting with the clutch out. Raise the engine speed to where it will be in third gear. Quickly push the clutch in, select 3rd gear, and let the clutch out. There should be no perceptible lurch if you accurately matched revs. Try the same thing at higher and higher speeds. As the road speed goes up, the speed difference between gears will go up as well. When going from 5th to 3rd a highway speeds, you may end up within 1000 rpm of redline. The easiest way of determining your maximum downshift speed is to watch the tach and speedo as you are shifting up at redline. If you shift at redline from 2nd to 3rd at 60 mph, subtract 10 mph, and that becomes your effective maximum downshift point for 2nd gear. If are within 10 mph, you are better off staying in the higher gear.

HEEL-AND-TOE DOWNSHIFTS

This combines double-clutching and braking into one event. Place your foot on the brake as far to the right as you comfortably can. While braking, roll your ankle so you can catch the left edge of the gas pedal with the right edge of your foot. If the pedals are too wide, try placing the ball of your foot on the brake, and the heel on the gas (This is where the term heel-and-toe originally came from). Now try gently slowing down and downshifting. With practice, you can brake hard and downshift in one smooth motion. This will prevent the wheels from locking when the clutch is let out in the lower gear, and you will be ready for a burst of acceleration coming out of your favorite corner!

 

Cliff notes, son. Can't be reading all that ****e!

Just learn how to heel-n-toe like a real man.

 

Quoted for future reference, again.

ra1's are r-comps, not street tires. if you're as good as you think you are then you should be faster than what we run on street tires... even if they are a couple years old.

regarding your serious question about rev-matching; don't worry bout what I do, worry about pointing-by that train of traffic thats gonna be behind you.

 

Here is what I will think my downshifting procedure will be at Lightning

Only worrying about rev-matching coming off the long straight, that seems the greatest difference in speed where you have a little extra time with down shift. Anywhere else on course I will not probably worry about it.

I need to learn how to left foot brake for Autox, Simmonz killed me most of the time when he codrove my car. He had the car in boost almost always with his technique which usually meant him beating me.
I am not sure why I don't heel toe or left foot brake, but I dont


1:14...1:14....1:14...1:14... If I don't run that time by end of first day I will be disappointed in myself. No need to quote I won't edit these posts.

 

RA1's are not R compund in my mind. Any tire you can drive on the street for 5000 + is not a real R-compound. Real R compounds have barely any tread pattern if any tread at all but 2 lines, would never last 5000 miles. More like 500 miles or 20-50 heat cycles depending on how serious you are.

So technically yes but realistically no, not even close to real r compound performance, IMO

 

^ damn, you gots it all figured out already! The game is over before it even began.

 

Dear, Mike

You will not do 1:14's so just get that thought out of your head now. Not being rude, only realistic.

Regards,

grillman

 

many racing orgs, including the SCCA, would disagree with your logic. 140 or great UTQG = street tire, just like STU. Below that and you are in R-comp's. Just like there are different levels of performance in the street tires there are different levels of performance in R-comps. Make no mistake an RA-1 is an R-comp, its not a hoosier A6, but its faster than any other street tire and they get quicker the more you them.

 

how about if Mike don't do 14's on his first day, then he buys everyone dinner at Texas Roadhouse. If he does make 14's, then we'll give him the Warm Tire Domination championship belt even if that's not the fast time of the day. game on, Not a Game Racing.

 

RA-1 is equivalent to NT01 or R888, all have UTQG 100.

 

Free dinner at TRH? Innnnnnnnnn

 

[coach]
RE: Heel-Toe
Heel-Toe is down shifting while applying the brakes and blipping the throttle to ease the gear change. Rev matching is downshifting without the brakes, just blipping the throttle mid-gear change. There is one place you might need/want to rev match on Lightning; between T2 and T3 or T3-T4 depending on gearing. You might not need to downshift for T1--really just depends on grip, speed, and gearing. You don't need to downshift in a Spec E30 on RA-1s but do have to downshift when on Star Specs.

RE: RA-1s: These are definitely an R compound tire. They heat up quickly (relative to other tires) and can take a lot of heat cycles--my 1:19s SE30 laps were on five year old RA-1s with lots of hours already on them (granted the three hours I put on them on the first day corded one). Mike, you are so used to A6s that are gooey out of the box that anything other than an F1 red-strip will feel like a brick. FWIW R6s take a bit of friction to get up to temp too.[/coach]

 

<--- Loves the F1 supersoft comparo.