Philadelphia's Classiest Drunkards
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I agree with Shoe because I preach the same thing. I read the Pocket Engineer and Carroll Smith is totally against using big bars, his belief is you can do it with spring rate and properly valved shocks. Sway bars restrict suspension movement so it is kind of a band aid. If it were me I would have drilled holes in stock front & rear sway bars and tried to adjust car with that. Bet your car starts understeering now and you will need to adjust it with shock settings and possibly big rear bar. Hope it all works, keep us posted. I am really curious to see if this is an improvement or a regret after you shake it out.
He still has a track high from great runs. Mine wore off when I woke up to back pain Monday morning.
I am surprised you can do all that yourself with no help. The t-case was a pain for two of us, guess the removal of subframe makes it a ton easier. We just dropped Shoe's and mine when I did it approx. 2" to squeeze t-case in. I thought when we did Trans in my cay we just lowered sub frame same as for tcase. My car was done on a lift, Shoe's car was done like Thai's, on the floor.
Thai must be stronger than he looks
Thai must be stronger than he looks
yeah, removing the K-frame is definitely the way to go. especially when doing the tranny because the rear motor mount in the way and it's nearly impossible to get at the bolts to remove the rear mount.
dropping the kfame only require removing the tie rods, two hose for the steering pump, lower ball joint for the steering knuckle, 6 bolts for the kframe and the steering linkage inside the car. all easy to get to. after that, dropping the tcase or tranny is cake. although it took me over 2 hours to the the TOB to release, i was so frustrated with it that i wanted to put a stick of dynamite in it. then after talking to chu this morning, i was like why didn't i just unbolt the pressure plate from the access hole, that would only take 10 minutes. i guess i'll have to try to remember that next time. been searching for a push pressure plate conversion so i don't have to deal with the oem pull TOB anymore but those push clutch aren't cheap. probably going to go with clutchmasters stage 3.
I agree with Shoe because I preach the same thing. I read the Pocket Engineer and Carroll Smith is totally against using big bars, his belief is you can do it with spring rate and properly valved shocks. Sway bars restrict suspension movement so it is kind of a band aid. If it were me I would have drilled holes in stock front & rear sway bars and tried to adjust car with that. Bet your car starts understeering now and you will need to adjust it with shock settings and possibly big rear bar. Hope it all works, keep us posted. I am really curious to see if this is an improvement or a regret after you shake it out.
btw, the whiteline fsb is 26mm and i also have the whiteline rear 24mm sway bar that's adjustable, set on the middle hole for now. i hope i like it. if not, chu is getting kicked in the nutz
Last edited by honda-guy; Jun 27, 2012 at 10:30 AM.
so you were trying to sell me them beat autox ohlins flag? how many bumps did you hit at autox
them guns on my google profile pics aint fake son
yeah, removing the K-frame is definitely the way to go. especially when doing the tranny because the rear motor mount in the way and it's nearly impossible to get at the bolts to remove the rear mount.
dropping the kfame only require removing the tie rods, two hose for the steering pump, lower ball joint for the steering knuckle, 6 bolts for the kframe and the steering linkage inside the car. all easy to get to. after that, dropping the tcase or tranny is cake. although it took me over 2 hours to the the TOB to release, i was so frustrated with it that i wanted to put a stick of dynamite in it. then after talking to chu this morning, i was like why didn't i just unbolt the pressure plate from the access hole, that would only take 10 minutes. i guess i'll have to try to remember that next time. been searching for a push pressure plate conversion so i don't have to deal with the oem pull TOB anymore but those push clutch aren't cheap. probably going to go with clutchmasters stage 3.
tell that to McLaren with the new MP4-12C. they use soft spring rate and use computer controlled hydraulic to control sway and dive. springs are there to take up the bumps, sways are there to keep car level. if sway bars are bad then race cars wouldn't have them, and save weight. i guess i'm just used to my s2k cornering so flat and and sitting lower in the car. i fell like i'm driving a truck when i sit in the evo.
btw, the whiteline fsb is 26mm and i also have the whiteline rear 24mm sway bar that's adjustable, set on the middle hole for now. i hope i like it. if not, chu is getting kicked in the nutz
them guns on my google profile pics aint fake son
yeah, removing the K-frame is definitely the way to go. especially when doing the tranny because the rear motor mount in the way and it's nearly impossible to get at the bolts to remove the rear mount.
dropping the kfame only require removing the tie rods, two hose for the steering pump, lower ball joint for the steering knuckle, 6 bolts for the kframe and the steering linkage inside the car. all easy to get to. after that, dropping the tcase or tranny is cake. although it took me over 2 hours to the the TOB to release, i was so frustrated with it that i wanted to put a stick of dynamite in it. then after talking to chu this morning, i was like why didn't i just unbolt the pressure plate from the access hole, that would only take 10 minutes. i guess i'll have to try to remember that next time. been searching for a push pressure plate conversion so i don't have to deal with the oem pull TOB anymore but those push clutch aren't cheap. probably going to go with clutchmasters stage 3.
tell that to McLaren with the new MP4-12C. they use soft spring rate and use computer controlled hydraulic to control sway and dive. springs are there to take up the bumps, sways are there to keep car level. if sway bars are bad then race cars wouldn't have them, and save weight. i guess i'm just used to my s2k cornering so flat and and sitting lower in the car. i fell like i'm driving a truck when i sit in the evo.
btw, the whiteline fsb is 26mm and i also have the whiteline rear 24mm sway bar that's adjustable, set on the middle hole for now. i hope i like it. if not, chu is getting kicked in the nutz
Lexus has a kinetic sway bar system that disconnects the bars for Baja SAE team off-road applications giving maximum independence to the wheels when on rough surfaces and then stiffens up on tarmac. Mad tech yo..
Last edited by robertg; Jun 27, 2012 at 11:20 AM.
http://evolutionsupershootout.com/
Shame you all are gay and did not enter..
And I was done yesterday, first time I ever used the racerenderer. Still have not figured out how to make rpm and gear position work or get a template for speed onlyAlwaysbehatin
Last edited by Mr. MR; Jun 27, 2012 at 12:13 PM.
LOL James
I am going to find my pocket engineer book and lay some knowledge on you all.
Real quick I think swaybars serve a purpose to a point, just do not see the need for massive bars on a highly sprung car. If anything my car could use a rear bar because I am running low spring rates. Not feeling it on 1000 + lb. sprung car. Shoe needs to break out the reasons in technical form, he is an engineer you know..
I am going to find my pocket engineer book and lay some knowledge on you all.
Real quick I think swaybars serve a purpose to a point, just do not see the need for massive bars on a highly sprung car. If anything my car could use a rear bar because I am running low spring rates. Not feeling it on 1000 + lb. sprung car. Shoe needs to break out the reasons in technical form, he is an engineer you know..