Philadelphia's Classiest Drunkards
Rick,
check out www.motorsportreg.com for dates of almost all the road course events in the area. You can filter by distance from your location and also type of events.
Most of us autox on a regular basis, but so far I think only myself, Jeff & Ben have done any recent road racing. I'm always throwing out when and where I'm going next cause it seems like I'm the only one interested (even though most have said they'll try it out at some point).
The next event I'm going to is @ Watkins Glen on Aug 13th-15th w/PCA. Its $390 for 3 days, but there is a waiting list to sign up. You might still make it in if you reg ASAP, but no promisses.
After the Glen I'm going to try and do Monticello in October and Shenandoah in September. I will be posting in here as the registration opens.
check out www.motorsportreg.com for dates of almost all the road course events in the area. You can filter by distance from your location and also type of events.
Most of us autox on a regular basis, but so far I think only myself, Jeff & Ben have done any recent road racing. I'm always throwing out when and where I'm going next cause it seems like I'm the only one interested (even though most have said they'll try it out at some point).
The next event I'm going to is @ Watkins Glen on Aug 13th-15th w/PCA. Its $390 for 3 days, but there is a waiting list to sign up. You might still make it in if you reg ASAP, but no promisses.
After the Glen I'm going to try and do Monticello in October and Shenandoah in September. I will be posting in here as the registration opens.
Talking with a couple people who have/had co-drivers, it seems the rule of thumb is for the co-driver to cover the cost of tires and obviously pay for anything they happen to break while racing.
not only that, but the amount of grip they generate would break the diff in like 2 seconds, lol. Dan and I were talking about it, but nothing is set in stone yet. The only reason I want to drive that car next year is for driver development. If we did that I suggested we get all new wheels & tires so we are atleast competitive.
Neither, right now I'm not looking to co-drive anything really, just thinking out loud here.
Talking with a couple people who have/had co-drivers, it seems the rule of thumb is for the co-driver to cover the cost of tires and obviously pay for anything they happen to break while racing.
not only that, but the amount of grip they generate would break the diff in like 2 seconds, lol. Dan and I were talking about it, but nothing is set in stone yet. The only reason I want to drive that car next year is for driver development. If we did that I suggested we get all new wheels & tires so we are atleast competitive.
Talking with a couple people who have/had co-drivers, it seems the rule of thumb is for the co-driver to cover the cost of tires and obviously pay for anything they happen to break while racing.
not only that, but the amount of grip they generate would break the diff in like 2 seconds, lol. Dan and I were talking about it, but nothing is set in stone yet. The only reason I want to drive that car next year is for driver development. If we did that I suggested we get all new wheels & tires so we are atleast competitive.
Thanks for the info yall. I guess nobody has logged their temps in EVO scan to see the difference? As pete said that OE gauge is just a dummy one...
looks like the mishi units are around $240ish... not bad for an aftermarket unit. Chu, do you know what Petey's prices are? I'd rather support a local than one of the big vendors.
looks like the mishi units are around $240ish... not bad for an aftermarket unit. Chu, do you know what Petey's prices are? I'd rather support a local than one of the big vendors.
Andy, Two brands I've found that work great and are available all over the place are Castrol LMA and Valvoline Synpower (not sure I spelled valvoline right). Both are high 400 to low 500 wet boiling point, which is the number you're going to want to look at unless you plan on flushing your fluid every couple weeks. If you want to be baller get Motul RBF 600. thats what I run on track days and its 16-19 a pint compared to $4-$6 per QT of the other two I mentioned, but unless you track your car its a waste of money. You will need about 2 pints of fluid to do a full system flush including the clutch slave.
Another good thing to have is a motive power bleeder. Makes brake bleeding a snap, seriously. The hardest part is getting the car in the air and all the wheels off.
Another good thing to have is a motive power bleeder. Makes brake bleeding a snap, seriously. The hardest part is getting the car in the air and all the wheels off.
Andy, Two brands I've found that work great and are available all over the place are Castrol LMA and Valvoline Synpower (not sure I spelled valvoline right). Both are high 400 to low 500 wet boiling point, which is the number you're going to want to look at unless you plan on flushing your fluid every couple weeks. If you want to be baller get Motul RBF 600. thats what I run on track days and its 16-19 a pint compared to $4-$6 per QT of the other two I mentioned, but unless you track your car its a waste of money. You will need about 2 pints of fluid to do a full system flush including the clutch slave.
Another good thing to have is a motive power bleeder. Makes brake bleeding a snap, seriously. The hardest part is getting the car in the air and all the wheels off.
Another good thing to have is a motive power bleeder. Makes brake bleeding a snap, seriously. The hardest part is getting the car in the air and all the wheels off.