chu jnz has diaqueen in stock.

 

Pete the clutch doesn't slip at all.

Marc, syptoms started about a month ago, when I noticed it was hard getting into to first gear and reverse. I've posted this before. Well, after talkign to a few people, I tried adjusting the pedal height, and it helped quite a bit. BUt its back and worst than before. First gear is really tough to get in, and notchy when it does. Reverse is almost undoable. I talked to someone yesterday, and they said I should check the ware on the disk since they had the same problem, twice. So tear-down is coming! I'm going to do the STM clutch fork stop and line while I'm at it.

While on this, anyone really knows what happend when the clip snaps off? Does it make the car undriveable. THis is what the fork stop is suppose to address.

I hope the rebuild kit fixes my problems. I dont want to send out the trans for a rebuild. I'm somewhat proud to have 112k on the original trans and tc.

 

I know. I would rather not buy a full jug since I've switch to Amsoil. Just need temporary fluids.

 

Dam Chu why so many problems? How is everybody doing this morning? hope all is well!

 

chu, i have some diaqueen you could borrow. I'm just far away.

also, to get a feel for what the sj auto-x's are like check this out ... http://s490.photobucket.com/albums/r...t=PICT0177.jpg

 

well that sucks i could have sworn i saw some a couple weeks ago @ advanced auto when I went to get my battery tie-down...

weird, I just heard about the STM clutch fork stop yesterday. I never even knew people were having problems with it. I'm sure you've gone thru this already, but your symptoms sound like the disc(s) aren't releasing. is it hard to get in gear from a stop and does it shift fine once the car is moving?

 

Marc, I think thats pretty accurate. All the other gears shifts perfectly normal. Its just 1st and R, which means from a stop. I dont know, but I think it also could be a bad throwout bearing, which is being replaced also. I just figure, even if I dont need the rebuild, I will do it while the trans is down.

 

That's what I was saying to Chu on Tuesday that you can't get any gear from a stand still.

Exedy twin disc FTL. Just kidding

 

That sucks Chu...

Do you just force it into 1st or have you been starting out in 2nd all the time now?

How many miles are that clutch and how long has it been in for? Doesn't seem that long...

 

You doing this yourself, perhaps with Mr Turbo's help? I remember you saying before you would never do a clutch job again on one of these things...

 

Josh and I are going to tackle the job. Petey is too busy as of late, and I'm not going handle it on my own. Josh has done it quite a few times, and I trust him to get it done. I would trust GV Autosports to do it, but the shops seems really busy, and they're closed on the weekend. I would love to have it doen this weekend!

 

if you've already flushed the fluid in the slave and reset the clutch pedal with the car in the air so the wheels aren't on the ground and the problem still isn't fixed then you're going to have to get invasive.

I've never done an evo clutch before, but can you see anything thru the inspection plate on the bellhousing? with the Mcleod twin disc in the vette I could pull the inspection plate and physically see if the discs were releasing or not.

If its not a hydraulic problem it could be something mechanical like a PP spring broken, fingers on the diaphram bent or a busted spring on the clutch hub that could be getting in the way. Or like you said a bad TOB, but that usually makes a lot of noise on the way out...

just thinking out loud... what does Josh think? Pretty sure he's done a bunch of EVO clutches.

 

Josh thought it could be a bad slave, or worn clutch. I check the slave of leaks, and found nothing. I've bled it before, and didn't really help. I will put it up on a lift and inspect it this weekend. There's a tiny inspection hole on the bottom. What do you mean by reseting the clutch pedal? And whe must the car be in the air for that?

I assume I would need someone in the car to depress the clutch and shift while I watch the inspection hole for engagement? And if thats the problem, the trns will need to come out?

 

Chu, I've got a whole jug of of the diaqueen lsd gear oil. It's at the shop.

 

resetting the clutch engaugement was what I was referring too.

what you do is get all 4 wheels off the ground and with the car started to hold the clutch down, put it in gear and slowly let the clutch out until you start to see the wheels spin. that is the engaugement point. the engaugement point should be around the middle of the pedal to allow the hydraulics enough travel. if its too low then you need to adjust the clutch pedal in, if its too high you need to adjust the pedal out.

btw, totally off-topic. a few minutes ago I met a guy who's name is Harry Dumass!! I almost laught in his face... poor guy.