^^ That set-up will be great. I have the same but with camber plates and run 2.2 in the front, 1.5 rear, 0 toe

 

Great! Thanks!

It looks like I'll be getting camber plates when I upgrade shocks... assuming I don't go with coilovers.

-Jalal

 

^ I have the same set-up with plates in the front, but I don't run that much in the rear... My car is set at -1.2 rear. It gets around nicely for what it is.

 

Didn't realize you didn't have camber plates. Go for the most the stock setup will allow I suppose. Also, with that setup with camber plates is better than most coilovers setups unless your willing to go all out on coilovers. Stay as stock as possible!

 

What is everyone's general consensus on rear camber if I can only go about -1.8° in the front?

Yeah, I'll most likely be sticking to a Bilstein HD/GT Worx setup with camber plates. I'd also probably add either a Whiteline 22mm or 24mm rear sway bar. With the Whiteline sway bar brace.

For bushings, I'm going to upgrade the LCA and my ball joints at some point this year. Probably going with a Perrin PSRS with the offset for the LCA, and Whiteline for the ball joints.

-Jalal

 

Also, I just ordered a front set of CL RC6's for the track.

I currently run CL RC5+ as my daily pads. So I'll be keeping them in the rear for the track.

I'm also about to order a set of Centric Premium blanks. Does anyone suggest slotted over blanks? Will they really truly help keep the pads "clean" and/or help avoid deposits?

-Jalal

 

I use centric blanks from rockauto, $100 shipped for fronts.

 

blanks. all day errday.

 

Anywhere from -1.2 to -1.0 should be fine for the rear. Our cars don't need a lot of rear camber. Also, I have the PSRS w/offset and the Whiteline RCK, I recommend both.

^ That. I've ran slotted, but blanks are perfectly fine.

 

All this suspension talk makes me want to do something with my X. I've been looking at coilovers, but I might settle on a set of springs.

 

Get the Energy Suspension master bushing kit. It comes with the front LCA bushings that will compliment the Whiteline RCK and Perrin PSRS. The ES kit also comes with rear diff and mustache mounts bushings, sway bar bushings, and trailing arm bushings.

 

Thanks guys!

Just ordered some Centric Premium Blanks and a bottle of ATE Type 200 brake fluid.
I'll bleed my system on Thursday night with the new stuff.

What are your opinions on this...

I currently have CL RC5+ that I've had on the car for a bit now. When I first had them put on my car, I was using GiroDisc budget rotors that were in good condition. However, when I first put the pads on and tried to bed them, they developed a nasty shudder and heat spotted a lot. Possibly pad deposits.

I thought it was the rotors and decided to upgrade the fronts to some Centric Premium blanks.

When I got the new rotors in, I put them on, went out and bedded them again, and I got the same thing. Heat spots, and the shuddered for a while. The shudder went away since the car is 99% daily driven and not much heat is put into the pads. However, the heat spots are still there when I work out the brakes, and I'm afraid I'll put enough heat into them to cause the shudder to return.

Should I only put the new pads (track pads CL RC6) on my car with the new rotors? Will it matter if it put the new pads on with the old rotors? Will I mess them up?

Please let me know what your opinions are!

This is my last straw with CL (Carbone Lorraine). If these don't work out, they're being ditched, and I'll be picking up a set of Ferodo DS2500's for the street with a dedicated set (front/rear) of track pads.

Thanks!

-Jalal

 

Presuming you didn't warp your rotors (which is doubtful) the heat spots shouldn't be an issue. And running old rotors and new pads also shouldn't be an issue IMO.

For rear camber I was told to run about half of what's up front in the rear. I'm now at -3* front and -1.5* rear but was also around there in the rear (no homo) when I ran less negative front camber.

(Working on mah interweb credz up in hur)

 

^The CLs aren't meant to daily driving. IMO, no track specific pads are. They might feel great on the street, but are very abrasive for rotors if not at operating temps. I believe its more the type of driving that's causing the problem, not necessarily the pad and rotors. Of all the track pads I've used, they all leave deposits and shudders after a few days on daily driving. That cleans up quick once you hit the track though.

 

I was told by Jeff Ritter over at EssexParts who are a distributor for CL that using the RC5+ for daily driving should not be an issue. This was about 2 years ago when I started using them. And that's why I did. They drive absolutely great for all the normal around town stuff. Great cold bite and no issues at all. Outside the occasional noise, you wouldn't really have issue with them honestly. However, I've only had the issue when I've put a bunch of heat into them, but it's been quite a while since I've had the shuddering which is why I'm not positive if they will or won't.

I think once the RC5+'s are dead and/or when I decide to get rid of them, I'll move over to a DS2500 and never look back.

chu,
What do you think of the new pad/old rotor question?

Thanks!

-Jalal