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Here is the diagram of the Outlander Sports Canbus system. Any voltage errors across any of these systems will cause Canbus errors. Which is why when you put in LED tailights and the circuit now returns electrical values outside of the pre programmed limits you get errors.
Here is the diagram of the Outlander Sports Canbus system. Any voltage errors across any of these systems will cause Canbus errors. Which is why when you put in LED tailights and the circuit now returns electrical values outside of the pre programmed limits you get errors.
This is a very "run of the mill" typical CAN network. The topology looks simple. This does not show internals of how the ETACS monitors the voltage on the control side going to the brake lights. You will need to do some reverse engineering to determine this- there will be no schematic available. CANBUS error is still the wrong terminology. This thread only caught my eye because I just finished making a custom LED braking setup and had to solve this on my own. Good luck on your fixes- I would still suggest finding the maximum resistance you can have without crossing the threshold.
This is a very "run of the mill" typical CAN network. The topology looks simple. This does not show internals of how the ETACS monitors the voltage on the control side going to the brake lights. You will need to do some reverse engineering to determine this- there will be no schematic available. CANBUS error is still the wrong terminology. This thread only caught my eye because I just finished making a custom LED braking setup and had to solve this on my own. Good luck on your fixes- I would still suggest finding the maximum resistance you can have without crossing the threshold.
Seeing as I'm not familiar with Ohm's law is ohm's similar to gauge? The smaller the number to greater the resistance?
I have been quite vocal against the use of these aftermarket taillights as they have lower intensity light output than the OEM taillight. See post #2 and the links therein in this thread . They seem to have better appearance for the hefty price of reduced visibility. Now they appear to fail soon after their installation. I agree with Jp7's comments regarding the rudimentary approach many made but the documentation on the aftermarket taillights is next to nothing. Here is my reasoning why I think the taillights fail after installation:
1. People in this forum (infected and Pipefish among others) installed these aftermarket taillights and provided extended documentation and proof for the installation and their functionality:
See post #79 and onward in Infected's 2013 RVR... thread and
see post #42 in the First Aftermarket LED... thread.
Neither of them reported any disfunction since their installation. As I did quite a few electrical modifications myself (subwoofer, paddle shifters, LED turn signals, parking sensors for front and back, fog lights for DRL, ETACS programming etc., all documented in this forum) I tend to thrust the work of these two fellow forum members. If I read the OP's message correctly the freshly installed taillights worked as advertised for a while, so I must conclude that something in them failed after a short time of use.
2. What could be the the part that failed? Since the OEM taillight is already an LED (except the turn signal and the reverse lights) it seems logical to look at the wiring diagram of the OEM light (see it below).
Besides the 9+1 (9 for the tail/brake and 1 for side marker) LEDs there are three regular diodes and a bunch of resistors and a capacitor. I suspect the aftermarket version must have a similar design plus one more resistor each for the LED turn signals and reverse lights. Any of those items can fail but most resistors would simply make the taillight not operating. If the taillight operates (I do not know for sure but nobody, who reported the ASC error mentioned their failure) then the most likely culprit is either one of the three diodes or the resistor at the upper left corner (in the box representing the taillight assembly). Keep in mind that these circuits are in connection with the ECU (see above). Let us wait for mixalot2009 to report back whether the 6 Ohm 50 W resistor has solved the problem for good. If so, then at least in his case the upper left resistor failed. In a partly relevant case I can tell that for LED turn signals the same parameter resistors (one for each side at the back not one for each bulb) worked for me. There has never been an error signal or hyper-flashing (see post #935 here).
3. Without documentation it is only a guesswork how exactly the taillight and the ETACS is linked. For GM vehicles the aftermarket taillight without load resistors disable the cruise control LED taillights No cruise control Cruise control killed by LED taillights
Returning to Jp7's comment: yes these solutions are going to be very poor because there is no documentation for the electronic components in the OEM and aftermarket taillights. I understand that my response is not fully exact or satisfying to all but I was hoping to at least expand our understanding a bit.
I have been quite vocal against the use of these aftermarket taillights as they have lower intensity light output than the OEM taillight. See post #2 and the links therein in this thread . They seem to have better appearance for the hefty price of reduced visibility. Now they appear to fail soon after their installation. I agree with Jp7's comments regarding the rudimentary approach many made but the documentation on the aftermarket taillights is next to nothing. Here is my reasoning why I think the taillights fail after installation:
1. People in this forum (infected and Pipefish among others) installed these aftermarket taillights and provided extended documentation and proof for the installation and their functionality:
See post #79 and onward in Infected's 2013 RVR... thread and
see post #42 in the First Aftermarket LED... thread.
Neither of them reported any disfunction since their installation. As I did quite a few electrical modifications myself (subwoofer, paddle shifters, LED turn signals, parking sensors for front and back, fog lights for DRL, ETACS programming etc., all documented in this forum) I tend to thrust the work of these two fellow forum members. If I read the OP's message correctly the freshly installed taillights worked as advertised for a while, so I must conclude that something in them failed after a short time of use.
2. What could be the the part that failed? Since the OEM taillight is already an LED (except the turn signal and the reverse lights) it seems logical to look at the wiring diagram of the OEM light (see it below).
Besides the 9+1 (9 for the tail/brake and 1 for side marker) LEDs there are three regular diodes and a bunch of resistors and a capacitor. I suspect the aftermarket version must have a similar design plus one more resistor each for the LED turn signals and reverse lights. Any of those items can fail but most resistors would simply make the taillight not operating. If the taillight operates (I do not know for sure but nobody, who reported the ASC error mentioned their failure) then the most likely culprit is either one of the three diodes or the resistor at the upper left corner (in the box representing the taillight assembly). Keep in mind that these circuits are in connection with the ECU (see above). Let us wait for mixalot2009 to report back whether the 6 Ohm 50 W resistor has solved the problem for good. If so, then at least in his case the upper left resistor failed. In a partly relevant case I can tell that for LED turn signals the same parameter resistors (one for each side at the back not one for each bulb) worked for me. There has never been an error signal or hyper-flashing (see post #935 here).
3. Without documentation it is only a guesswork how exactly the taillight and the ETACS is linked. For GM vehicles the aftermarket taillight without load resistors disable the cruise control LED taillights No cruise control Cruise control killed by LED taillights
Returning to Jp7's comment: yes these solutions are going to be very poor because there is no documentation for the electronic components in the OEM and aftermarket taillights. I understand that my response is not fully exact or satisfying to all but I was hoping to at least expand our understanding a bit.
Wow thank you for the detailed write up! I'm not sure if something failed or not the the OP but mine was basically immediate that the error popped up. I've had the resistors on for a few days now and no more errors have come up in the system. I know the turn signals have resisters prewired into them since you can see them in the housing of the tail light. No idea was ohm they are since they are crammed pretty tight and glued/taped down. I will update if anything DOES happen. On a side note the seller i bought from did tell me if there were any issues, to contact him and he has been very responsive with any questions ive had.
Wow thank you for the detailed write up! I'm not sure if something failed or not the the OP but mine was basically immediate that the error popped up. I've had the resistors on for a few days now and no more errors have come up in the system. I know the turn signals have resisters prewired into them since you can see them in the housing of the tail light. No idea was ohm they are since they are crammed pretty tight and glued/taped down. I will update if anything DOES happen. On a side note the seller i bought from did tell me if there were any issues, to contact him and he has been very responsive with any questions ive had.
This is why I'm waiting for some wrecked 2020 OS's to start showing up in wrecking yards. Should be true plug and play. Note the word "should" lol
....... I'm not sure if something failed or not the the OP but mine was basically immediate that the error popped up. .......
Then the only explanation is that the version or just the copy you bought was defective to begin with. Again, not everyone, who installed these aftermarket taillights experienced the ASC error, thus it is not generally characteristic to ALL of these but rather just some defective ones. Ebay offers these from many different sources with over $100 difference in price even now. I would not be surprised if more than one manufacturer would make them. I am sure the design is OK but they most likely use lower quality components. They test these just by hooking them up with 12V power supplies and once they illuminate are deemed to be good. I stand by my previous opinion: they are not upgrades in terms of functionality but rather dangerous downgrades, especially the turn signals that are too dim in daylight. There are much better choices for customizations.
Then the only explanation is that the version or just the copy you bought was defective to begin with. Again, not everyone, who installed these aftermarket taillights experienced the ASC error, thus it is not generally characteristic to ALL of these but rather just some defective ones. Ebay offers these from many different sources with over $100 difference in price even now. I would not be surprised if more than one manufacturer would make them. I am sure the design is OK but they most likely use lower quality components. They test these just by hooking them up with 12V power supplies and once they illuminate are deemed to be good. I stand by my previous opinion: they are not upgrades in terms of functionality but rather dangerous downgrades, especially the turn signals that are too dim in daylight. There are much better choices for customizations.
It's not an issue of being defective but rather the year of the vehicle they are installed. I have a 17 and I have heard of the issue with the 16 as well. The issue does not present itself in 15's or below. I'm not sure of the reason but I've verified this via another OS group on facebook where multiple people have these and not a single one has issues on the 2011 - 2015 but WILL on the 16 or above. As for visibility I wouldn't say these are much worse than the stock light and compared them side by side before I installed them and did not see a large difference. I personally have the pulse system on my 3rd brake light for visibility when braking and the lancer side markers for turn signals as well, just for proper precautions. Now I had my stock tail lights smoked and would argue that these are dimmer than stock untouched brake lights but if you are going for the smoked look then I don't see much difference. This is my personal opinion and I'm not discounting anyone else's
It's not an issue of being defective but rather the year of the vehicle they are installed. I have a 17 and I have heard of the issue with the 16 as well. The issue does not present itself in 15's or below. I'm not sure of the reason but I've verified this via another OS group on facebook where multiple people have these and not a single one has issues on the 2011 - 2015 but WILL on the 16 or above. As for visibility I wouldn't say these are much worse than the stock light and compared them side by side before I installed them and did not see a large difference. I personally have the pulse system on my 3rd brake light for visibility when braking and the lancer side markers for turn signals as well, just for proper precautions. Now I had my stock tail lights smoked and would argue that these are dimmer than stock untouched brake lights but if you are going for the smoked look then I don't see much difference. This is my personal opinion and I'm not discounting anyone else's
It is interesting. I would not see any reason why the ASC-ETACS should be different in the 2015 and up models but I have to admit it could be a viable reason and since my knowledge is limited I would not want to spread false or misleading information.
Here is again the proof for the side by side comparison of the light intensities. Anyone can decide whether the stock or the aftermarket emits better:
It is interesting. I would not see any reason why the ASC-ETACS should be different in the 2015 and up models but I have to admit it could be a viable reason and since my knowledge is limited I would not want to spread false or misleading information.
Here is again the proof for the side by side comparison of the light intensities. Anyone can decide whether the stock or the aftermarket emits better: comparison of light outputs
I see your point about next to an unsmoked stock light for sure. I have no idea why it would be different between those years either since as far i know they are basically the same under the hood lol
So after I installed a 50w 6ohm resistor on the light like is shows the error went away and everything is working like normal again. So if anyone is still having issues just install it like it shows above and it will fix the issue.
Did this resolve the problem or did you go with a different ohm???
Oct 7, 2019, 04:57 PM
